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  1. #1
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    How to access Viper transom without splitting boat or cutting splashwell?

    My gelcoat is too nice to cut into the splash well. I would never match the metalflake. Is it possible to grind out transom from under the splash well and do a good job at replacing transom? I have only seen split hulls and cut splashwells done.

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  3. #2
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    Most likely not possible. The top of the transom is laminated between the rear skin and the splashwell. That would be tough to get out although not impossible, i just cant imagine trying to do that. You could probably use corebond and make some offset question mark type transom pieces to slide in. Use lots and lots of corebond. The inner part of the transom under the splashwell would be easy enough but getting all the wood out of the top would be quite a challenge and designing transom core to be effective and fit in there would be super tricky. Not impossible just not practical imo.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  4. #3
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    Well....if you're stupid and want a stiff neck for six months.....I know a guy.....

    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






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  6. #4
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    My hat goes off to you on that one. Stiff? I think id go perma neck spasm if i crawled under there and tried that. Why am I not surprised you of all here are the one who took the hard road, and still won the war
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  8. #5
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    Thanks, I am really wanting to avoid splitting that hull. Is the metal channel available or something similiar. I don't like the black rubber bumper despite its utility.

  9. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 78vking View Post
    Thanks, I am really wanting to avoid splitting that hull. Is the metal channel available or something similiar. I don't like the black rubber bumper despite its utility.
    If you mean the rub rail, no it's not available. Some people have bought a junk boat just to get a few pieces.
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






  10. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by transomstand View Post
    If you mean the rub rail, no it's not available. Some people have bought a junk boat just to get a few pieces.
    damn. Great signature about Bud, TS
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

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  12. #8
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    I would say thats nearly impossible. You're probably best off taking it out the top similar to what transomstand did. That will affect the least amount of gel coat. It's a 40 year old boat, going to have a few scars from being fixed.

  13. #9
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    I still want to do a chainsaw transom removal!!!! bring it to MN so I can fire up the Stihl!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

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  15. #10
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    Was thinking if you could get the rotten wood out from below you could lay in a fresh one to the bottom of the splashwell and use seacast to pour in the top part through a smallish hole or three on the cap. Might be doable and not damaged much gel
    Hydrostream dreamin

  16. #11
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    Discovered it can't be done

    So if anyone is interested, it can't be done because the upright rear portion of splash well is bonded to transom. Maybe this is not original manufacture as mine had evidence of prior repair.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_5351.jpg  

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  18. #12
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    good. you did it right. for those of you who are thinking of shortcuts on your transom. picture the jolly green giant swimming up behind your boat and hooking his fingers over the transom and jamming his thumbs into the back. then he picks your boat out of the water and starts shaking it as hard as he can. that is what your 20 to 350 hp outboard (sterndrive too!) is doing to your boat every time you hit the gas. now, i ask you, do you really wanna pour in seacast?

  19. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 78vking View Post
    So if anyone is interested, it can't be done because the upright rear portion of splash well is bonded to transom. Maybe this is not original manufacture as mine had evidence of prior repair.
    CAN'T????? Hmmmmmm. And that is original manufacture, they are all bonded.
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






  20. #14
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    It can be done. Just not with keeping all the original finished surfaces intact.

  21. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekfl View Post
    It can be done. Just not with keeping all the original finished surfaces intact.
    If you were crazy enough, you could do it and keep everything intact.
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






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