1975 Vector pad design

[David - WI]

This whole "junction" seems kinda odd... or "different" anyway?

[transomstand]

All of it looks weird. Pad (obviously), transom, strakes, the entire trailing edge of the hull. That's why I thought it might a splash. But it's got an HSP hull ID.

[scott reierson]

Wow, I've seen plenty, but not like that. Lots of work there.

Like Transomstand said above. He's trying to save you a ton of restoration time and money only to get a broken heart. Find out all you can first.

Might be a little better in the rough with more stern weight to make it ride more on the first set of lift strakes? Perhaps a little round pad/rocker experiment to move CG further bacK to reduce porpise? Looks like a device base or pitot tube base might have been screwed in the notch on the right.

Or just put a motor with solid mounts a small setback adjustable jackplate on it and surpise us!

If it lays down a Laser straight no drama one handed 95mph pass with no bad porpise habits or extra weight for one person driving you will be getting a lot of calls. I will be envious. Good luck on your project.

[PCS9136]

Thanks for all of the advice and insight, I really appreciate it.
I feel a little better after hearing that Activator has a similar design. That at least gives me a little more hope it will work out.

One other question I have on a slightly different topic is steering.
I am still a long way from that yet, but I am curious what others are using or would recommend?
My Sleekcraft has cable steering, the two turns lock to lock is nice but it is a fight with torque from the prop.
Hydraulic would be nice but I am guessing I would not want something that requires too much input to keep up (5 or more turns lock to lock sounds like a lot).

Any suggestions on a nice balance between leverage and responsiveness to stay on a pad?

[transomstand]

I've run opposed Ride Guide for 47 years, never tried hydraulic, the lack of feel concerns me. Probably get a visit from the hydraulic cheerleaders telling us how they can feel it just like cable. Sorry, I'm not buying, and when I get to be too much of a wimp to drive it I'll quit. Setup makes a HUGE difference in torque steer. When you get it right there almost isn't any.

[PCS9136]

Hi again,

I made a cradle for the bottom out of 2 x 4s since I had quite a few in the basement. It did not come out as nice as some of the others I have seen on some of the other posts, but I think it will do. After setting the cradle on the trailer and the boat on the cradle I started working on the floor.
I think the core was about 1/4 inch thick based on gap between the floor and the bottom.
I was able to use a shop-vac to get most of it up and then started sanding to get the last of it out.
As I was sanding, I noticed it looks like the strakes have some sort of filler that can be seen from inside the boat.

Is this normal?
Or have I sanded too far into the hull?

I didn't notice this in other images that have been posted.

[PCS9136]

The white lines in the image are what appear to be the filler in the strakes.
Thanks again fir all the help
Phil

[transomstand]

Yes the strakes are filled in. It was done to make it easier to lay the balsa in a flat sheet.

[PCS9136]

Great thanks.
Will vinyl ester resin bond to this material ok, or should I use something different

[LakeFever]

I would definitely use vinylester its considerably better for bonding to old glass and its 100% water proof. Not much more cost either. No brainer to me

as for the cradle that looks good to me. What i noticed is you want to be cautious with twist and bowing. If your leaving the cap on its much more stable just be sure the pad doesnt droop before you kay new core in. Even a slight dip will make for a lot more faring afterwards. Post pics as you go i love following build threads

[transomstand]

Poly, vinyl, or epoxy is fine. Main thing is to grind it out completely, get all the old balsa out. You want it all gray, no tan at all, and the more you can dry it the better.

[PCS9136]

Thanks for the advice. I did flip and reinstall the bow support from the trailer to help provide a little extra support for the front of the hull.
But maybe I can try to add a little more support up front just to be sure.
I was going to try to replace the floor up to the fuel tank support with the cap still on and then remove it for that last portion.
I was also thinking of adding some thin piece of 1/4 in ply with a few tabs of glass to help support the sides when the cap comes off and then remove them once the cap is put back on.
Will that help keep things aligned or is it not really needed?

Also, regarding vinyl ester, are there any particular places you would recommend ordering it from?
I have seen a few places that carry it, and prices vary quite a lot.
I was wondering if some of the cheaper resin I see is getting old and will have a shorter shelf life after it arrives.

Thanks again for all the help
Phil

[transomstand]

I use Merton's fiberglass in Mass. But shipping to the midwest may negate any cost savings on the product.

[PCS9136]

I was working on removing some of the filler in the strakes to see just how thick it was, and I am not sure if the pictures will show but it is only a few mm between white, black, red and daylight from the other side. Any suggestions on what to use? A flapper disk works good for removing material quickly but is a little too aggressive when you're getting close. An orbital sander seems too slow. I was thinking of getting a small / thin handheld belt sander to try.
Thanks again for all the help

[rjdubiel]

go at it with the flapper on the angle grinder. Light light touch gets ya good. I tired the belt sander just to be disappointed. Grinder basically on everything is how I did it. Then glass down to make a good base for the balsa and to put back what you took out. On the areas you went through put some extra there as you will have to fix from the outside anyway and will grind that as well.

And Express Composites in Minneapolis can get you everything you need.
https://www.expresscomposites.com/