Sorting out a Frankenstein'd 2.4/200

[pcrussell50]

apparently WH22's were used in 150, 175 amd 200's from c239553 on up. which means mid-1990-up. a little light reading for us Dr Frankenfurter types. https://www.biggerhammer.net/mercury/ edit: went to bottom of page and answered. didn't realize it was page 1 of 3. well, if you didn't figure the WH22's out yet, here it is. thanks to another member here when i was asking about what fits on what.

Thanks for finding that. I had it about a year ago and then closed it out and forgot about it and then I couldn’t find again. So good find there.

I now have WH-46’s (in addition to the WH-22’s), which are correct for the late 1990
2.4/200 powerhead.

Any info on how to set the knob on cold start enrichment valve? My newer ones do not have that knob.

-Peter

[derekfl]

open it again and add to bookmarks or download it to documents...

[pcrussell50]

open it again and add to bookmarks or download it to documents...

already done… as soon as you posted it. It was a year ago that I found it and lost it.

-Peter

[pcrussell50]

So now on to something else... The enrichment valve. This particular motor has the kind with the knob you can twist, like this one in this ebay ad:


The thing is, I don't know where to set the adjustment knob... Fully clockwise? Fully counterclockwise? In the middle? :shrugs:

My other two motors of this generation have the newer kind that has no knob to adjust.

-Peter

Must be too old to jog any memories. I have some Tygon fuel line I can plumb it up with so I can see the fuel flow through the valve. that way I can figure it out by observation.

-Peter

[donmac]

didn't look back to see what you posted! I'm thinking any knob is just for manual enrichment in the event of solenoid or electrical failure, should be closed for normal operation! clockwise

[pcrussell50]

didn't look back to see what you posted! I'm thinking any knob is just for manual enrichment in the event of solenoid or electrical failure, should be closed for normal operation! clockwise

Second-to-last post of previous page… here.

Thanks for the insight. That was going to be my guess too… to start off fully clockwise/closed and see what happens. I just wasn’t sure if that setting would shut off enrichment fuel altogether even with the solenoid open. Sounds like it won’t, based on your input.

Is there a way override or manually enrich in the event of solenoid failure with the newer style enrichers that don’t have a knob?

-Peter

[bullet123]

The enricher in picture is 80's crap. I would find an enricher that is activated with a solenoid by pushing in on key. Helps on initial startup . hold in for 5-8 seconds on cold start.

[pcrussell50]

The enricher in picture is 80's crap. I would find an enricher that is activated with a solenoid by pushing in on key. Helps on initial startup . hold in for 5-8 seconds on cold start.

Mine has wires, is hooked to 12V, and a solenoid that clicks. I also have two of the newer kind that does not have a knob. But I figure I might as well use this on if it works.

-Peter

[tlwjkw]

[QUOTE=bullet123;3390386]The enricher in picture is 80's crap. I would find an enricher that is activated with a solenoid by pushing in on key. /QUOTE]

it does... it's 'lectric to.'' just an older version.

[tlwjkw]

Second-to-last post of previous page… here.

Is there a way override or manually enrich in the event of solenoid failure with the newer style enrichers that don’t have a knob?

-Peter

you can push tha button on top ta pump a little fuel into tha motor.....

[donmac]

best to take the output fuel line off the enrichener for a test when running to make sure it's not adding fuel when not needed! pretty hard to tune a motor when a bad enrichener is bleeding fuel in as well!

maybe sqeezing primer bulb with line off primer might be a place to start!

[pcrussell50]

best to take the output fuel line off the enrichener for a test when running to make sure it's not adding fuel when not needed! pretty hard to tune a motor when a bad enrichener is bleeding fuel in as well!

maybe sqeezing primer bulb with line off primer might be a place to start!

That sounds like a good common sense test for anybody running an enricher. Thanks for sharing. This is why I love this place!

-Peter

[pcrussell50]

How different and how much performance penalty would there be if I dropped my 2.4/200 onto the exhaust plates and tuner from a 2.0/150*. For Fishmotor/recreational use, not racing. I’m guessing that for puttering around with the wife and kids and a little skiing and tubing, it might be impossible to tell the difference by the seat of the pants.

Thoughts?

*I have the proper 2.4 tuner and plates… In our other house, where it will be a month or so before I can fetch them to this house.

-Peter

[pcrussell50]

OK so going back to the studs… I ordered some fresh ones from ProMarine. Based on the photos they come with that maroon colored thread locker paste on the threads that go into the block. Thinking I should chase out the threads in the block and clean them with some acetone or lacquer thinner, so that the thread locker on the new studs can do it’s job.

This will be strictly a fresh water motor?

Sound like a plan? Or should I be worried about the studs freezing in place even in fresh water if the studs are put in dry?

-Peter

[pcrussell50]

Well shoot. I was sure the the backyard motor flipper I bought this 2.4/200 off of had just put cheap Chinese electrics on for a quick sale, so it would run on the muffs, which it did, and blew 120 exact on all six.

Well, now I've had it all apart, it looks like it's all good stuff. The stator is CDI, and practically brand new. The switchboxes are both "Made in Germany" Sierras. Though one is newer than the other. (I thought the newer one was Chinesium. But the upon closer inspection even the newer one is. Sometimes you get lucky.

Pretty happy camper here.

-Peter