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11-01-2022, 03:26 PM #31Team Member
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Ah yes. You’re probably right. I went and read back in this thread where someone said they “work on 2.5’s” not that they “came” on them. Thanks for clarifying. I assume then that they should be just right for my 2.4/200?
Adding to my confusion was the fact the eBay seller said they were for a 2005 200. Here are the WH-46 I just bought off eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/28296502605...mis&media=COPY
Can someone look at the pics for me? Hoping I didn't buy the wrong thing for my 1990 2.4/200
Baker343 in an earlier post said this:
WH22 & 46's and I think all Wh carbs that came from mother Merc 150-200's had the cast #1374-5427.
-PeterLast edited by pcrussell50; 11-01-2022 at 04:08 PM.
"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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11-01-2022, 04:29 PM #32
Those are good carbs for you. If you need jets get some bigger idle jets, like 62 and mains you will need to figure out but mid 70's about till you can do some tuning
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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11-01-2022, 04:34 PM #33Team Member
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"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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11-01-2022, 04:46 PM #34
Sure
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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11-09-2022, 10:41 PM #35Team Member
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The throttle rod that goes between the throttle arm and the throttle cam: #26 in this parts site picture. It's threaded on both ends. Is there a spec for its length? Or should it just be threaded on all the way, on both ends (not tight of course, but fully threaded).
I have three of these motors, (two 2.0/150's, and a 2.4/200). I have manuals for all, but no dimension is given in the link and sync section, which makes me think there is no critical dimension, just threaded all the way on, on both ends.
-Peter"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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11-10-2022, 07:37 AM #36
...
"The character of a man can be easily judged by how he treats those who can do nothing for him"
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12-22-2022, 07:20 PM #37Team Member
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Anyone have a snap of the jetting chart for the WH-22 carbs from 80’s 2.4/200? It’s in my 1986 V6 manual … But that’s in a different house and I don’t have access to it for a while :-/
Thanks as always and Merry Christmas
-Peter"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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12-23-2022, 10:25 AM #38
I have not noticed much difference in jetting from WH series carb to carb. If you look online they are all over the place. I would say the same, put some bigger idle jets in and 74's or 76's mains in it and go run it. I know some guys run mod 2.4 with 66 mains but he is on the edge. His vulture does 90 mph though with a 2.4 fishing motor so he is pushing it hard!
Also, I just got some rod and threaded each end once I had it bent correctly. There is not specific length. I may actually have a stock one also, will check this weekend.1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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12-23-2022, 12:37 PM #39
gotta blow it up a tad but.................. go here and you will find a lot more
WH carb chart (screamandfly.com)Last edited by tlwjkw; 12-23-2022 at 12:43 PM.
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05-14-2023, 02:22 PM #40Team Member
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I feel like I should ask this just for completeness...
As I de-salt my lightly salted 2.4/200 (I say lightly salted because it was run in salt at some point, but it's all coming apart easily enough with only a little wrestling and no broken bolts or studs).
Anyway, I've pulled the four longer studs and want to replace them. Mostly so I can set the powerhead upright on my wooden workbench. The lower threads on them have a little rust although there is plenty left to get the nuts back on. Mostly replacing the studs and nuts for cleaner appearance. New studs are easy enough to find at ProMarine and other places. But those nuts... dayum... They seem to be like $7... Each. Because of this I have to ask... Are they made of something special that we can't live without? Or can I just use garden variety 3/8-24 grade-8's?
-Peter"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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05-14-2023, 05:15 PM #41
They aint grade 8 cause they last forever in salt water even when you don't want them to. I almost think the ones merc sells now are a chrome plated bronze or somethin. They last forever.
I use stainless and put some junk on the thread to keep them from galling. I would not use steel. 3/8-24 stainless nylock work just fine. The half nuts in the front are hard to find: I buy those from merc.
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05-14-2023, 05:47 PM #42Team Member
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thanks as always mate.
Is the anti-galling stuff you put, that Aviation Permatex #3?
-Peter"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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05-15-2023, 10:09 AM #43
I put on whatever I have around. Sometimes I use a light oil that quickly will get washed out when the motor goes in the water...I like to use stuff that does not interfere with the nylock. However, on the fishin motors they didn't even use nylock...so is it really necessary? I think it is.
Permatex is good but I try to keep it off of threads unless they are gonna be submerged in salt water all the time. I do put it on the smooth part of the stud though to keep it from getting stuck.
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05-29-2023, 12:03 AM #44Team Member
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So now on to something else... The enrichment valve. This particular motor has the kind with the knob you can twist, like this one in this ebay ad:
The thing is, I don't know where to set the adjustment knob... Fully clockwise? Fully counterclockwise? In the middle? :shrugs:
My other two motors of this generation have the newer kind that has no knob to adjust.
-Peter"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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05-29-2023, 10:38 AM #455000 RPM
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apparently WH22's were used in 150, 175 amd 200's from c239553 on up. which means mid-1990-up. a little light reading for us Dr Frankenfurter types. https://www.biggerhammer.net/mercury/ edit: went to bottom of page and answered. didn't realize it was page 1 of 3. well, if you didn't figure the WH22's out yet, here it is. thanks to another member here when i was asking about what fits on what.
Last edited by derekfl; 05-29-2023 at 10:42 AM.
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