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  1. #1
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    24' Just Right Boats (Skater Copy?) Setup and Porpoise Issues

    Hey Guys,

    I have been watching this site for years now and appreciate all the help I have received just from looking at others posts.

    I have a 1984 24' Just Right Boats Cat that I bought about 18 years ago now. Originally had 225 Mercs. I was told at the time that it was a Skater Splash. I have recently overhauled the boat over the last 2 years. New transom, extra knees, stringers, added marine foam under the floor and new floor. All new gauges, throttles, stereo etc. Also went with a pair of used 1999 Pro Max 300's on 14" Bobs Machine Jackplates and 16" Armstrong brackets. This was to accomodate the height needed on these engines and have the ability to trim because of the transom lip. They are originally 20" but have extension boxes making them 30". They are currently at the highest hole and about 1" above the bottom of sponsons with jacks all the way up. I originally ran 15x34P humpbacks and now have 14.75x34P Blasters. Also tried 30P Bravos and could not spin them. I am having a serious issue with porpoise from 65-85mph and havent been able to push past that because of how violent the porpoise gets. Today I added some 30 Gal Ballasts up the front in each sponson and filled them 2/3 full. This helped the stability of the boat but required more positive trim and could only hit 80mph at 4800rpm. Based on different numbers I have checked, 16% slip seems to be the average at 40-50-60-70-80mph. I was talking with the guys who did all the rigging and were thinking about dropping the extension boxes and trying to go up an inch on engine height. Merc Racing is suggesting Bravo 1 OC 33P props. Just looking for some input from you guys that have similar boats and have played with the setup. Im about to give up and go with a different boat. Any help is much appreciated!

    I added some pics to help understand the setbacks and boat setup.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0066.jpg   IMG_0234.jpg   060D9415-A855-4352-BA33-AD43E9FD114C.jpg   IMG_0102.jpg   57410931-B352-4E57-9502-F44ABC2FCEF2.jpg  

    IMG_0481.jpg  

  2. #2
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    Sorry the extension boxes make the engines 25” not 30”

  3. #3
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    That seems like too much setback, but I am an Allison guy. You put on heavier motors and moved them 30” back? How much setback did you have with the 225s? Were the 225s 3L?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    That seems like too much setback, but I am an Allison guy. You put on heavier motors and moved them 30” back? How much setback did you have with the 225s? Were the 225s 3L?


    It does seem like a lot of setback but it was needed because of the difference in the cowl size from the old motors and to get the engine height correct. The top of the transom has a lip that angles back towards the motors. The old ones were 3l yes. And I believe they were 14” setback.

  5. #5
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    Are you near Double R? They have rigged some Skaters. There used to be a 28 with twin 300’s near me

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    Are you near Double R? They have rigged some Skaters. There used to be a 28 with twin 300’s near me

    Yes I am within 3 hours of them. The place who has done all of the setup so far is Speedmaster marine. They have done a great job so far. I am just looking for some other possible opinions from guys who have gone through similar testing and dialing in. After speaking with Brett at BBlades yesterday, we are thinking that removing the extension boxes on the engines and moving them an inch to inch and a half is the next step. I cant spin the Blaster 34's beyond 4800 rpm without a ton of positive trim, which makes the boat very sketchy. So hopefully that extra height will get the rpm up.

  7. #7
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    I am no expert but own a 28 Skater with 20" 300xs's.
    Shaun Torrente helped me with the set-up when I bought it new.
    I have attended the LOTO Shootout a dozen times watching and talking to many outboard cat guys (most Skater guys) and with the knowledge and experience I have, your setup is all wrong.
    Your setback should be 3" to 5" max. You are really affecting the leverage the motors exert on the hull.
    25" motors are way too much. 20" work OK, but 15" are best for balance.
    Gearcase centerline should be 1 3/4" to 2" above the bottom of the hull, dependent on water pressure (10# min.).
    Your motor trim should be neutral at low speeds and a little negative at 80 mph+. I see not need to trim the motors to positive trim unless you are beaching the boat.
    Remember, this boat hull (Skater 24) was designed for 2.5L motors. The extra weight and height of 3L motors is a compromise for the hull but can be delt with.
    These are my opinions, but 10 years living Skater outboards as thought me a lot.

  8. Likes hellbents-10, Jimboat, rgsauger liked this post
  9. #8
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    Thanks for this David. I really can’t bring the setbacks in to 5”. The transom was built up significantly to allow for the added leverage. I am at 3/4” above the bottom of the hull now so we are going to remove the extensions and try it at 1.5” and see what it does and go from there.

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    That should help. I am having trouble understanding, if you don't need to trim up the motors very much, why the motors could not be moved closer to the transom. I must be missing something.
    I have seen 24 skaters with the motors attached directly to the transom w/o jack plates.
    Good luck and don't give up on the boat just yet!

  11. #10
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    Hey David. If you look at the picture of my transom in comparison to yours. Yours will
    be cut down into the transom. Mine goes straight up. And with the shape of the transom, In order to get the engine height where the boat will still plane, we need the setbacks and jack plates. They had measured this all out prior to me getting the Armstrong brackets and it was the only way to make it work. I also do need the ability to trim up still when at the sandbars we go to every weekend. Right now we are at the top hole to get the 3/4” height so removing the extensions and lowering down in holes should hopefully allow it to plane still and get the proper height while using the jackplates. Fingers crossed. And I appreciate your time in answering this.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davidlake View Post
    I am no expert but own a 28 Skater with 20" 300xs's.
    Shaun Torrente helped me with the set-up when I bought it new.
    I have attended the LOTO Shootout a dozen times watching and talking to many outboard cat guys (most Skater guys) and with the knowledge and experience I have, your setup is all wrong.
    Your setback should be 3" to 5" max. You are really affecting the leverage the motors exert on the hull.
    25" motors are way too much. 20" work OK, but 15" are best for balance.
    Gearcase centerline should be 1 3/4" to 2" above the bottom of the hull, dependent on water pressure (10# min.).
    Your motor trim should be neutral at low speeds and a little negative at 80 mph+. I see not need to trim the motors to positive trim unless you are beaching the boat.
    Remember, this boat hull (Skater 24) was designed for 2.5L motors. The extra weight and height of 3L motors is a compromise for the hull but can be delt with.
    These are my opinions, but 10 years living Skater outboards as thought me a lot.
    OP,

    take a look at this thread maybe you can take something away from it. Some very good and very experienced skater people commented on it.

    https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...plate-Question

    I tried super hard to get the correct answer but I don’t think there is a correct answer. Some people prefer the motors with little setback and some prefer the motors with more setback. The porta brackets are 8” setback and STR are 1.75” of set back. Multiple people with 15” motors are on 5.5 CMC brackets but who knows what kind of clamp they use with their 15” did the use a true 15” clamp from a 2.5L 260 which would add 2” of setback right there to make it 7.5” or did they have someone cut and weld their existing clamp so it wouldn’t add any setback?

    The props you run also matter a lot. 5 blade thruhubs are very popular for all around boating or 4 blade over the hub for absolute top speed.

  13. #12
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  14. #13
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    It looks like you can ditch the Armstrong brackets and with just the 14" bobs still have enough clearance. I would try that asap. I get what your saying about needing the motors back because the cowling can hit and there is no notch in your transom but 30" of setback is way to much.

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  16. #14
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    Where in Ontario are you? There's a 24 skater in bobcaygeon that has gone from 225 promaxes, to 300x's, and now I think has 300xs's. He knows the hull as well as anyone I'd think, might be worth a chat with him.
    1989 Canadian Edition Vision Sold
    1990 Hydrostream Virage Stage 3 Turbo

  17. #15
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    https://youtu.be/LaGFNWW5im8

    I filmed this when he had the x motors
    1989 Canadian Edition Vision Sold
    1990 Hydrostream Virage Stage 3 Turbo

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