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07-01-2022, 08:48 AM #16Junior Member
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Gotcha
well I took measurements after cleaning up 90 percent of the bores with a 220 grit stone hone will finish with a brush as I like the fact the long stones keep more true so can see any taper in bore or if out of round and not cleaning up evenly. I’ll use ball hone to finish the cross hatch. 3.378 is my worst one so far so it took about nothing off to clean up the bores. The one that had the scratches is 95 percent gone and I just honed it all until the bore at the top was clean and what ridge was there was gone. Really had no ridge as per could feel it but could see once started cleaning it up. Once I find the specs on the pistons for clearance range I’ll know more so where I’m at but don’t see it being more then .004 on all holes. I’m taking pictures as I go so when go to sell next year will show who ever looks the condition it went back together at. Around here people are selling crap that blows up on the second time out with a new owner as they hide the problems and most people buying have no idea what they are looking for. So for this going together how I’m doing it all will be like someone getting a great deal as I don’t see this making it so I can get that much more for the boat. I’ll be happy to get back what I put into it and know it’s going to run well a long time as long as they know how to properly care for a 2 stroke which seems to be a problem today with many people.
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07-01-2022, 12:41 PM #17Junior Member
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So talked to both pro marine and wsm on pistons. Trying to find maximum bore recommend by Mercury. Pro Marine says their piston can be run with .005 clearance max to not be noisy I don’t want to ruin 600 bucks in pistons due to being too loose so anyone know what is mercury max recommended is actually or has experience running a cast piston out to 3.378-3.380? .008 is worst case as most are .078 right now and about perfect. I was going to clean up with an 180 grit or 240 grit ball hone. But if .078 is max I’ll leave it alone at that.
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07-07-2022, 08:18 PM #18Screaming And Flying!
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- FT WORTH, TEXAS
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hello im Bobby V. and was in the rebuild business for quite a while and only did v6 mercurys, i tried very hard to make these steel sleeve motors work right and spent a lot of money/time on the 3 that i had experience on, there are some folks like the fella who has had no problems with his and then there guys like me who tried to make them work early models had very poor casting qualitys like out of center sleeve registers and very thin registers so sleeves would spin in the registers causing lots of problems later ones got better then there was the fat block which is the same as 2.5 except its a 2.4 bore and hands down worth working on . the water in the block will cause the marking like you are seeing in your block. my advice is bore it out obnly if your sure water is not coming in when you are not expecting it like cacks some where that hard to locate the fellow who told you about the sleeves is a friend of mine and he is for sure got knowledge on the not so good v6 mercs ( in general) loomk it over good i bought a whole motor once just like that for 1500 that had 125 on all 6 when i pulled the heads the whole block turned out to be trash Good luck
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07-08-2022, 12:12 AM #19
Good to see you back on here, Tex. Hope you and your crew are doing well
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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07-11-2022, 09:16 PM #20Screaming And Flying!
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Thanks its just me now, ive quit fishing sold about everthing ive spent the last year doing home work on what has happened to my country due to greed and corruption at nearly 77 years old and worked 63 of those i was completely dumbfound after one of my Girls showed me the proof of it all i can say is payday is coming and soon. im still having trouble believing some of the most unreal stuff i now know is the truth
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rgsauger thanked for this post
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07-11-2022, 11:37 PM #21
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