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08-06-2022, 03:33 PM #31
You can use the depth gauge on a set of calipers to verify your timing needle is adjusted properly. Top of piston should be .462 down from tdc, and line up with .462 on flywheel. You have two different adjustment bolts, one for high speed, the other for idle. Your don't want to exceed 23° btdc for max timing at wot cranking speed. I don't worry much about idle timing, I adjust, so it doesn't die. You also have to disconnect your idle stabilizer when setting timing.
If your still having problems with erratic timing do a bias test, or try a different control module.
Idle adjusment, the one above is maximum timing aduster.
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08-06-2022, 04:20 PM #32Member
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Yes before testing idle timing I did check and adjust the timing mark by using a dial indicator. I also adjusted/checked the WOT timing first and it was good at cranking speed. Thought about testing it again after the crazy idle speed timing problem but not sure if it might change or damage something with the idle speed so far off. Really don’t understand how idle timing goes from being in the correct range to being so far off when running the motor compared to testing at cranking speed so quickly but seems to be running right.
My idle stabalizer is built into the control module, can’t disconnect it, mine is the CDM ignition, 2002 model.
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08-06-2022, 06:13 PM #33Member
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Retested timing running at idle and it is testing correct at about 1* ATDC, but idle is still a little rough and making a weird random sound that went away as I moved timing back. Need to test on water but also going to check the reeds. Still can’t figure out why the timing was so off last time. Might get a different control module to test.
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08-06-2022, 07:45 PM #34
If in fact you had that much timing on # 1, I don't think it would even run if the rest of the cylinders had the same. So maybe your right in thinking a cdm coil is bad on #1.
If timing is jumping around on all 6 you should be looking at your module, or flywheel.
I have the same engine, except efi. Bought it dirt cheap last year, with some sort of gremlin. I haven't messed with it yet. I'm thinking more and more it needs the older ignition system.
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08-06-2022, 10:16 PM #35Member
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I think this ignition system is very robust but when things start going bad, troubleshooting can be a little difficult. Functionally it’s nearly the same as a switch box system it’s just the coils and switch boxes are separate in the CDM modules. Can’t complain too much, the motor is 20 years old and used in saltwater. I can’t check the timing on the other cylinders yet as I don’t have a timing tape that has the other five cylinders. I’m going to try and find one if not I guess I can mark the flywheel manually using the dial indicator.
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08-06-2022, 10:20 PM #36Member
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Can I just mark the flywheel at a certain interval form the first cylinder to get a fairly accurate point of zero degrees for each cylinder? Assume I can divide the circumference by 6 and that should get me zero at each cylinder. Does anyone know the circumference spec on the 40 amp flywheel?
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08-06-2022, 10:25 PM #37
The ignition cut, rev limit on efi version is what was bothering me, vs the the old style with just fuel enrichment.
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08-06-2022, 10:30 PM #38Member
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Yeah, it hampers you if you want to go beyond the standard protocols, hard to alter and add power. I’m fine to just use at normal usage, I hardly ever go WOT.
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02-22-2023, 04:40 PM #39Member
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Wanted to update: Got it on the water finally this past weekend for a test. She is running great again, jumped on plane and ran well. Also had readjusted the carbs, the shudders were not reaching full WOT, now gained 100-150 rpms at WOT. Don’t know exactly what was causing the motor from not planing, either the new trigger, new control module or adjusting a float in one carb that was to high.
For anyone who has similar problems in the future, I change several things so not sure what actually fixed it, list of replaced parts and repairs:
Replaced Trigger (resistance test was low)
Replaced two CDMs (Intermittently tested bad)
Replaced Control Module (No test for this but had someone I know with a new one I got cheap, so why not)
Rebuilt fuel pump (Been awhile, No torn gaskets found but they did seem stiff)
Cleaned carbs with new gaskets (found some small vents with gel in them)
Fixed float level in one carb (middle carb was to high-possible flooding)
Replaced top bearing seal (some oil on top of motor under trigger)
Replaced reeds with TDR reeds (for safety while it was opened up)
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