Trilobe pin for single ram trim

**Aaronhl** · 05-22-2022, 10:15 PM

Hi Single ram trim -how can I get a trilobe pin with a flange on it so I can use a cats paw to take it out from behind the transom bracket? I had to lift the engine off the jack plate to punch it out from the front to take it out. I want one that I can pry out from the rear similar to the 3 ram trims but those are smaller in diameter if I recall

**Aaronhl** · 05-24-2022, 04:08 PM

No ideas anyone??

**25two.stroke** · 05-25-2022, 10:01 AM

No ideas. Yeah you are right about the 3 ram pin being smaller dia. You would just have to order a trilobe pin thats the right dia.

**Chaz** · 05-26-2022, 09:54 PM

The pins job is to keep the bolt from turning in the top loop. The bearing surface is the two bushings on either side of the loop in the swivel bracket.

That stock pin is no better than a cut concrete nail ..

When I replace a rusted out top loop, I mill a small flat .. drill and tap 1/4"

Stock loops in good shape can go 5/16" . Ones that have had concrete nails in and out of em usually have to go 3/8" . I've done some at 10 mm , but by then .. well , you know ..

I make my own "solid" bolts out of 316L .. they don't get pitted out or leave an orange stain on the driveway .. the hex will drive the smartcrap sender .. not cheap, but then ... price the POS one from the mother ship ..

**Aaronhl** · 05-27-2022, 11:05 AM

If I follow what are you saying, you tap the top loop to screw a machine screw into the merc horizonal shaft/pin? And 1/4 diameter screw would be good?

I guess that pin/screw would keep the horizontal pin/shaft from moving sideways but with the trim sender only on one side what keeps it from moving out the other side if the pin accidentally falls out? The merc one im talking about, looks like you rigged a bolt on yours...

**25two.stroke** · 05-29-2022, 06:42 PM

Originally Posted by Aaronhl

If I follow what are you saying, you tap the top loop to screw a machine screw into the merc horizonal shaft/pin? And 1/4 diameter screw would be good?

I guess that pin/screw would keep the horizontal pin/shaft from moving sideways but with the trim sender only on one side what keeps it from moving out the other side if the pin accidentally falls out? The merc one im talking about, looks like you rigged a bolt on yours...

Mercury racing ones are a bolt. Thats what he was talking about pricing from merc. That bolt he made work is in the place of the bolt from mercury which I believe costs a few HUNDRED dollars for one stupid bolt.
You probably have the standard trim ram that has just a round cross pin not the threaded pin Chaz mentioned. Same thing goes for the trilobe pin though, its just a pin. Or a nail. Or drill and tap it for a bolt.

**FUJIMO** · 05-29-2022, 09:12 PM

...what lube do you use on that chaz?...

... (tefgel, anti-seize, anti-corrosion, 2-4-C, needle bearing assembly, graphite, bear grease, vasoline, or?...)

**25two.stroke** · 05-30-2022, 12:13 PM

Originally Posted by FUJIMO

...what lube do you use on that chaz?...

... (tefgel, anti-seize, anti-corrosion, 2-4-C, needle bearing assembly, graphite, bear grease, vasoline, or?...)

ky jelly

**Chaz** · 05-31-2022, 09:27 AM

The bolt head on one side .. washer and nut on the other stop lateral movement.

I use a set-screw (allen bolt) to keep the top pin (bolt) from rotating in the loop.

Yes, i said I drill and tap the stainless "top loops I make" ... 1/4"

No, i said "factory loops" get drilled and tapped .... 5/16"
(If the owner wants to get away from the concrete nail)

Yes the stock pin (upper bolt) is drilled (weakened), will rust out, like most Merc parts is priced at least 10 times it's value.

Mine are 316L

I use that snot ugly Merc 101 grease that I got in a trade.

The Mrs. has Vaseline, KY, Astroglide, and a few other Fu-Fu scented ones.

She guards her Vaseline when she knows it's powerhead or Powerglide assembly time ... cuz I'll ...

with the tub ... in a N.Y. minute ...

**Aaronhl** · 05-31-2022, 10:11 AM

I noticed the Mercury racing set screw is mostly threaded with a pin on the end, do you thread into the stainless piece you make, or is the end of the set screw turned down to have no threads

I feel like I am almost stuck using the crush pin otherwise I would have to buy the expensive merc racing parts after I (do my best to) thread the merc loop to 5/16

Do you use loc-tite on the set screw???

I have to also replace the 2 bushings in the mid section that the pin slides into because the old ones are worn, any difference in part numbers or sizes between the early 80s non race and mid 90s race bushings? I cant find a part number for the early 80s...

Also have to fix the tilt lock lever as both of them dont really move at the time time and the pull/push button is stuck

**Aaronhl** · 05-31-2022, 10:35 AM

But even if I can use the stock non-racing parts by drilling and tapping, I have no way of stopping the pin from moving side to side, maybe some washers/spacer and a plate to screw into the trim sender screw holes like the bottom trim cylinder pins...i dont plan on using the trim sender cuz it seems like a new piece of plastic falls off it it each time i look at the engine, I can almost turn my head to see if the engine in up or down, just thinking out loud here let me know what you think

edit: side to side incase the set screw pin comes out unexpectedly, would like to have a failsafe for it

**Chaz** · 06-01-2022, 09:18 AM

No hole, just a flat for the allen screw to land.(easily seen in picture above) Next time it comes apart, the goober is below the pins surface .. so it won't scar the bushings coming out. I use grease, but if locktite make you feel better ..

Bushings, i just buy a dozen of the "long side" ones at a time. Trim to fit for the short side. (always seen to run out of one or the other at the most inconvenient time)

Early-early model stuff is NLA on a lot of basic parts. Like any restoration, you'll have to make your own. Flee-bay, Delron in 1", 1 1/4" and 2" will take care of any bushings you need to make.
Don't forget you'll need to make driver's for your new bushings ..

Early units used aluminum pucks with a strap a crossed it to hold the pin in place. (side to side)

Late pin and hardware will work. Or you can make a new one out of stainless thats a little longer. Drill and tap each end ... bolt with a fender type washer will keep it in place. Then you can get fancy and cut the puck for an O-ring (relieve the backside for the bolt) fill the recess with grease .. lubed for life ..

I have only seen one swivel bracket that the "tilt lock" still moved. All the rest I cut off the hardware close as I can .. and call it a day ..

**Aaronhl** · 06-01-2022, 11:18 AM

Very helpful Chaz glad I am not the first to take these things apart to try to fix them

I like the idea of making a longer pin with bolts on each side, do you think if I make the pin long enough just shy of the fender washers/bolts and each side, that I would even need a set screw going through the trim cylinder loop?

I dont really want to mutilate the stock parts...if I mess up taping that loop, the whole cylinder might be worthless

Making my own pin with bolts on each side doesnt mess with the oem parts at all and I could always put it back the why I took it off in worst case scenario

Good call on making my own bushings, I dont have a lathe so this is kinda a backyard fix but I think I can make it work, just have to get in there and measure

**Aaronhl** · 06-01-2022, 11:41 AM

Originally Posted by Aaronhl

Very helpful Chaz glad I am not the first to take these things apart to try to fix them

I like the idea of making a longer pin with bolts on each side, do you think if I make the pin long enough just shy of the fender washers/bolts and each side, that I would even need a set screw going through the trim cylinder loop?

I dont really want to mutilate the stock parts...if I mess up taping that loop, the whole cylinder might be worthless

Making my own pin with bolts on each side doesnt mess with the oem parts at all and I could always put it back the why I took it off in worst case scenario

Good call on making my own bushings, I dont have a lathe so this is kinda a backyard fix but I think I can make it work, just have to get in there and measure

I guess I can answer my own question yes I will still need the set screw because the whole pin+bolts can still turn, still back to the set screw problem

**Chaz** · 06-02-2022, 09:17 AM

Aaron,

If your not comfortable doing some/ all of it .. I'm sure that there are plenty of mom~n~pop welding/fab/machine shops around you ... you'll just have to look around. More than likely they will have what you need ... in their scrap bin. (dont ask for scraps, it's all "sellable stock" )

Bring them a picture of what you want .. make sure to add dimensions to the parts and pieces . Piece of cake dude ..