Building 225 promax SS

**tlwjkw** · 05-12-2022, 09:57 PM

Originally Posted by simpson_3

So the only reason it won't work is because the holes on that 15" arm are drilled for bolts bigger than what cam with the 2 piece?

you can use a lathe or drill press and drill a set of solid mounts out ta size of bolts.. jus so tha holes (in mounts) are true and straight....

**Baker343** · 05-13-2022, 02:25 AM

I think it would be easier to fix your low temp issues then try to run a 2 piece plate. Can you post a picture of how your dumping water from your PM.
US1 has some proven steps on how to run 1 piece plates on steel sleeve blocks

**25two.stroke** · 05-13-2022, 11:07 AM

Originally Posted by Baker343

I think it would be easier to fix your low temp issues then try to run a 2 piece plate. Can you post a picture of how your dumping water from your PM.
US1 has some proven steps on how to run 1 piece plates on steel sleeve blocks

This is true. If you dump water too fast then your motor will never get warm, 2pc or 1 pc

**Mrzip** · 05-13-2022, 06:21 PM

If the Devertes are in correct location. It will make heat.

**Greg G** · 05-14-2022, 08:19 AM

A 1 piece plate works way, way better in environments that have limited swings in water temps. In my experience with both set-ups, it was tough to make the 1 piece work properly in my waters up here. It certainly can be done, but can be a PITA. The 1 piece as was said above is designed for high volume water throughput in mostly race applications, adding another twist to the equation.

There is a lot of info on S+F on this, so be sure to dig back into the archives for added info.

**tlwjkw** · 05-14-2022, 05:01 PM

stock 2 piece put it all together bone stock (except solid mounts) and go.. one piece, are tha dump holes to big or to little?.. are tha pee hoses restricted to much or not enough?.. does tha block have tha right holes "relocated" in tha bottom.. water pressure to high or to low and etc. and etc........... some like havin' to fool with all that ta get it right and some don't... up to you, gl.......... jmo

**Baker343** · 05-14-2022, 10:55 PM

How do you plan to use your PM.
If you go to a 2 piece, your going to have to match the PM exhaust to a PM 2 piece plate or a mid 80's 2L 2 piece plate.
Running stock exhaust plates with a popit, thermostats and the correct water dumps will help you eliminate a cold seize.

**simpson_3** · 05-17-2022, 10:05 AM

Originally Posted by Baker343

How do you plan to use your PM.
If you go to a 2 piece, your going to have to match the PM exhaust to a PM 2 piece plate or a mid 80's 2L 2 piece plate.
Running stock exhaust plates with a popit, thermostats and the correct water dumps will help you eliminate a cold seize.

As of right now my 225 SS is using just a 280 1 piece plate. Not sure how big the drain holes are but I will be removing the powerhead today/tomorrow. I run the fender washers in the head as US1 recommends. I plan on trying to put the 2 piece plate from a 225 promax sport on but if that doesn't work I will be threading the drain holes in the 1 piece plate and putting brass plugs with 19/64 drain holes. When the water temp is 80 degrees and air temp is 80 to 90 degrees my motor has no issue getting to the 140-150 degree mark but if I was to take it out in the fall when water temp is low 60s, the motor wouldn't build much past 110 degrees.

**simpson_3** · 05-17-2022, 10:07 AM

Originally Posted by tlwjkw

you can use a lathe or drill press and drill a set of solid mounts out ta size of bolts.. jus so tha holes (in mounts) are true and straight....

When you say to drill the solid mounts are you referring to the stock ones or getting a set of aluminum ones from Bob's? My only concern with drilling them is the stock heavy duty bolts from the 1 piece don't seem long enough to reach the solid mounts in the 2 piece plate.

**tlwjkw** · 05-17-2022, 11:32 PM

yes.. drill tha solid mounts to accept tha larger dia bolts due to tha size of tha holes in tha tiller arm.. they will need longer than tha ones used with tha one piece.. don't agree with some that use tha stock 7/16 dia 'cause it results in slop thru tha 1/2 holes in tiller... jmo.

this site will give ya an idea of cost....

Socket cap, Stainless steel 18-8, 1/2"-13 - Bolt Depot

**simpson_3** · 05-17-2022, 11:38 PM

Originally Posted by tlwjkw

yes.. drill tha solid mounts to accept tha larger dia bolts due to tha size of tha holes in tha tiller arm.. they will need longer than tha ones used with tha one piece.. don't agree with some that use tha stock 7/16 dia 'cause it results in slop thru tha 1/2 holes in tiller... jmo.

What bolts do you use since the 1 piece bolts aren’t long enough? Could I use the stock 2 piece bolts and make sleeves for them to eliminate the slop?

**tlwjkw** · 05-17-2022, 11:57 PM

you can find tha right length.. jus take some diggin'.. sleeve might work ok... don't remember if tha big tiller will take a "hex" head instead of tha allen cap head??? may not be able ta get a socket ta seat on it?

**capteliminator** · 05-24-2022, 06:39 AM

I just picked up a 2000 Pro Max that came factory on a 20" offshore mid. It has a 280 style one piece plate and runs thermostats. Cant you just run thermostats on your one piece plate?

**Greg G** · 05-24-2022, 06:55 AM

Originally Posted by capteliminator

I just picked up a 2000 Pro Max that came factory on a 20" offshore mid. It has a 280 style one piece plate and runs thermostats. Cant you just run thermostats on your one piece plate?

All factory?

**rjdubiel** · 05-24-2022, 07:20 AM

Originally Posted by simpson_3

What bolts do you use since the 1 piece bolts aren’t long enough? Could I use the stock 2 piece bolts and make sleeves for them to eliminate the slop?

Did you read my messages on your other thread? Keep your one pc plate, modify it with