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  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by 25two.stroke View Post
    Yeah thats what I thought.
    Please tell me what you think…? Are those minor differences really going to screw up a recreational boaters weekend? I don’t think so I’m really happy with them! I just have to find someone who has a pair of 15” clamps

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2thelake View Post
    Please tell me what you think…? Are those minor differences really going to screw up a recreational boaters weekend? I don’t think so I’m really happy with them! I just have to find someone who has a pair of 15” clamps
    I can say no more on the topic of mad EFI mids. I mean everything I have said so far and out of respect for Todd and the company I will say no more. Some people love the mids. You will find out for yourself. I would take Chaz's contraptions or Michael Chapman's first over anything else on the market.

    All I deal with is recreational boating aside from a few drag boats I mess with that all have 2.5s... so thats the kind of stuff my perspective comes from. I have a 20" offshore clamp and know where another one is. If that would help you can buy the two and send them to chapman to have them cut to 15. Cut offshore clamps do VERY well in my experience. They are lighter than a 15 cause there isn't the 2" of setback. They run good.
    Attachment 508201

  3. #48
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    So a smooth back offshore mid and clamp can be cut to 15” and its actually good, not sketchy like a bass mid?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by 25two.stroke View Post
    I can say no more on the topic of mad EFI mids. I mean everything I have said so far and out of respect for Todd and the company I will say no more. Some people love the mids. You will find out for yourself. I would take Chaz's contraptions or Michael Chapman's first over anything else on the market.

    All I deal with is recreational boating aside from a few drag boats I mess with that all have 2.5s... so thats the kind of stuff my perspective comes from. I have a 20" offshore clamp and know where another one is. If that would help you can buy the two and send them to chapman to have them cut to 15. Cut offshore clamps do VERY well in my experience. They are lighter than a 15 cause there isn't the 2" of setback. They run good.
    Attachment 508201
    Is the best option to find and rebuild an actual 15” mid from a 260 or to cut a 20”?

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2thelake View Post
    Is the best option to find and rebuild an actual 15” mid from a 260 or to cut a 20”?
    It depends on what your kind of boat likes. My mirage runs insanely well with a cut 20" clamp (and factory can). The lack of setback and the 10 to 20 lbs lighter in the swivel bracket is beneficial.

    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    So a smooth back offshore mid and clamp can be cut to 15” and its actually good, not sketchy like a bass mid?
    Yeah cut offshore cans are WAY easier and safer cause they are cast with thicker walls. However, anything can crack, even a factory 20" offshore mid. I ran a factory 15" mid and a cut offshore can and the whole deal was SO heavy. It was solid and had no issues, but the cut offshore is heavier than a factory 15" can, plus the heavier bracket was 30+ lbs I bet.

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  7. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by 25two.stroke View Post
    It depends on what your kind of boat likes. My mirage runs insanely well with a cut 20" clamp (and factory can). The lack of setback and the 10 to 20 lbs lighter in the swivel bracket is beneficial.


    Yeah cut offshore cans are WAY easier and safer cause they are cast with thicker walls. However, anything can crack, even a factory 20" offshore mid. I ran a factory 15" mid and a cut offshore can and the whole deal was SO heavy. It was solid and had no issues, but the cut offshore is heavier than a factory 15" can, plus the heavier bracket was 30+ lbs I bet.
    I wish S&F had a sticky on the basics of what you need to do to run a 15” can on a 7 cylinder. At least something that explains the different setups people have done.

    I learn more and more about these things through you guys so thank you!

    So from what I understand please correct me if I’m wrong…. To run a 15” mid on a 7 cylinder you need to either cut your current midsection or buy a madefi 15” midsection. In addition to that you will need to either purchase a 15” offshore clamp with a matching trim cylinder or you will need to cut your 20” clamp and trim ram. There are also some exceptions when it comes to what type of trim ram you want to cut..if it’s a 3 ram I don’t know who would cut that. If “offshore” single trim Ram I think Chapman will do that.

    if you want more setback (+2”) do a 15” offshore clamp. If you want less set back (?”) you would cut a factory 20” mid that came with the motor.

    if you have a 25” mid you cannot cut it down to 15”

    is this correct?

  8. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2thelake View Post

    To run a 15” mid on a 7 cylinder you need to either cut your current midsection or buy a madefi 15” midsection. In addition to that you will need to either purchase a 15” offshore clamp with a matching trim cylinder or you will need to cut your 20” clamp not trim ram. There are also some exceptions when it comes to what type of clamp you want to cut...if it’s a 3 ram I don’t know who would cut that. If “offshore” single trim Ram I think Chapman will do that.

    if you want more setback (+2”) do a 15” offshore clamp. If you want less set back cut a factory 20” clamp.

    if you have a 25” mid you cannot cut it down to 15”- Its frowned upon.
    The hydraulic trim ram has nothing to do with 15 or 20" You don't have to cut that. Theres less clearance for the front of the lower unit, but you can forget about that really.
    3 ram and single ram clamps are nothing alike. They are totally different clamp brackets and heights for the steering arms. Chapman can make a 15" out of either trim setup, but you need the complete clamp+swivel+tilt mechanism. You can't mix and match much of the parts. Chaz also has cut 3 ram 20" clamps to 15 I believe...
    Last edited by 25two.stroke; 07-31-2022 at 11:28 AM.

  9. #53
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    Lets break "mid-section" down to their basic parts.

    The "exhaust housing" (can).

    The other being the "clamp bracket" which consist's of the side brackets, swivel bracket, trim cyl, tilt and swivel pin's along with the lower yoke .. I just call all of those parts .. "the bucket".

    I don't really care for the 7 cylinders (opti-pop) ... I prefer everything else in the 3.0L family ... but if we are gonna call a "porkchop" a "porkchop" .. I rekkon we can call a 3.0L a 7 cyl. Just keep in mind that I refer the seventh cylinder as the nitrous bottle, not some gayazz parasitic air pump.

    Lake, it looks like you have a can from two different batch runs. No big deal ... put them together and no one can see what the inside looks like ...

    The reason no one used a three ram trim unit on a 15" can ... is because IT WONT FIT.
    As stated, I did some piggyback units a while back ... if you get the standard unit to work ... I'll give you a job .. starting tomorrow.

    All tiller arm / swivel pins wlll work. Some need a bit more machining , and I prefer the newer stainless units .. lower yoke too.

    If you use a factory 15" buckets assy, it's a bolt in with only a lower yoke change to fit the 3.0L can.

    If you shorten a 20" bucket, you will need to shorten the trim cyl as well. Some don't know how to do the cylinder. It's probably the same idiot who was cutting the lower boss off of the swivel bracket and just hammering a bushing back in the bottom. All was fine until the thin wall split up the middle after a few hours. So if your told you don't need a shorty cyl ... keep walkin ...

    You will need a :

    shorty cyl
    short swivel bracket
    short tiller / swivel pin
    short shift shaft
    short drive shaft
    short water tube
    Cut inner can / tuner

    Other than that, piece of cake ...


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  11. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2thelake View Post
    I just got 2 of Todd D cans! Haven’t even unboxed them! Now you got me thinking I should just send my current 20” cans to Chapman. It’s not like I’m takin my 24skater offshore to go wave bashing.
    Go look at my post I just made in this section "MAD EFI MID"
    If you want the whole long winded story. The problem has come to a close (for now) so I felt ok telling the story. I didn't want to mention it while we were still in the middle of the project.

  12. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    Lets break "mid-section" down to their basic parts.

    The "exhaust housing" (can).

    The other being the "clamp bracket" which consist's of the side brackets, swivel bracket, trim cyl, tilt and swivel pin's along with the lower yoke .. I just call all of those parts .. "the bucket".

    I don't really care for the 7 cylinders (opti-pop) ... I prefer everything else in the 3.0L family ... but if we are gonna call a "porkchop" a "porkchop" .. I rekkon we can call a 3.0L a 7 cyl. Just keep in mind that I refer the seventh cylinder as the nitrous bottle, not some gayazz parasitic air pump.

    Lake, it looks like you have a can from two different batch runs. No big deal ... put them together and no one can see what the inside looks like ...

    The reason no one used a three ram trim unit on a 15" can ... is because IT WONT FIT.
    As stated, I did some piggyback units a while back ... if you get the standard unit to work ... I'll give you a job .. starting tomorrow.

    All tiller arm / swivel pins wlll work. Some need a bit more machining , and I prefer the newer stainless units .. lower yoke too.

    If you use a factory 15" buckets assy, it's a bolt in with only a lower yoke change to fit the 3.0L can.

    If you shorten a 20" bucket, you will need to shorten the trim cyl as well. Some don't know how to do the cylinder. It's probably the same idiot who was cutting the lower boss off of the swivel bracket and just hammering a bushing back in the bottom. All was fine until the thin wall split up the middle after a few hours. So if your told you don't need a shorty cyl ... keep walkin ...

    You will need a :

    shorty cyl
    short swivel bracket
    short tiller / swivel pin
    short shift shaft
    short drive shaft
    short water tube
    Cut inner can / tuner

    Other than that, piece of cake ...

    thank you chaz!! This post should be a sticky for 15” mids!

  13. #56
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    Ran this can on my roundy round races for a few seasons before I crack it by over tightening the power head bolts.
    It blew perfect smoke rings at the boats next to me when I fired it up.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Baker343; 08-12-2022 at 11:52 AM.

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  15. #57
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Full length trim cylinders with 15" mids function they just don't get much negative trim. Most of the rec boats out here run long rams and put limit bolts so they cant under trim. They are easier to get parts for and replace than shorties. And yeah, most people don't mess with cutting and welding them like Chaz...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    My DIY exhaust snout in the works...

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  17. #58
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    Not amerc but this is another of Chapman's did mine a few years ago... Did a great job came primed and ready to go... DIY..? I left the welding up to someone better than me... Could i yea/well maybe..lol.. but would i trust it as much as his NO..
    AND Definitely better looking weld..


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    Last edited by mrichartz; 08-12-2022 at 02:53 PM.
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor
    Twin v6 closed deck Evinrude loopers Ported,2.7 heads,cooling mods
    milled finger ported to match vertex pistons,
    All casting slag removed
    Sleeves in opposite so no idle reliefs
    Offshore exhaust mids
    152 psi comp,balanced pistons and rods,Stuffed, 106 pullovers
    CDI 8500 digital ignitions ..Boyesen reeds..And more..

  18. Thanks David - WI thanked for this post
  19. #59
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    Negative trim.
    Yep, lethal
    I have a boat here that in its past, was testdriven by a prospective buyer.
    19ft 6, 80- 90mph boat.
    They prospective buyer took off with the motor trimmed in and didn't get 100 meters before it hooked and threw both occupants out.
    Badly damaged the boat.
    I run it with a good mechanical trim gauge and a large warning mark.

    Never thought of putting a trim pin back on it.
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 08-12-2022 at 03:48 PM.

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