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Thread: coring question for a 16 avenger
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03-25-2022, 07:23 PM #15000 RPM
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coring question for a 16 avenger
I have a 16 avenger, it had a foam core between the floor and bottom, that was removed when the person I bough tit from redid the floor. No foam was put back in, I think the bottom is now flexing and I want to add a core to the bottom. I want to just use balsa wood. My question is how much do I use? I was thinking 3/8 by 8 inch board, glass it in with a 2 inch gap, and then put in another 6 inch board, is this right, or do you do a full layer of wood?
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03-26-2022, 12:44 PM #2Screaming And Flying!
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Pretty much should cover all the hulls bottom glass with core and some glass over it. 1/2'' balsa is fine
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
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03-26-2022, 02:19 PM #3
I second that.
Also take the time to check and support the running surface so its straight.Jim
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03-26-2022, 07:18 PM #45000 RPM
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I had it flipped over to fix a crack, and made sure the bottom was flat, but if its flexing..... Now I just need to cut the floor out, thanks for all the help. Any suggestion were to buy core material?
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03-26-2022, 09:32 PM #5
Like the others said, core the entire bottom/running surface. You can buy sheets of 2'x4' balsa core that are scored so it will conform to the hull. Express Composites is based out of Minneapolis and sells all of this type of stuff. I know the have a decent online store and will ship to you. I bought all my supplies there for my build.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
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03-26-2022, 09:40 PM #65000 RPM
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So with a 2x 4 section, which way to you lay it down? I would think 4 solid feet from the transun, and then can you just lay down another 4 feet? or do you lay down 1/4 and over lap the section to build up to 1/2 inch?
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03-26-2022, 10:03 PM #7
This is how the core was laid into my Hydrostream. Probably a good idea to go from the transom forward until the hull starts transitioning up towards the bow.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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rgsauger liked this post
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03-27-2022, 10:10 AM #85000 RPM
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one last question, why not go and do all of the bottom? I do love the gig that was made for your boat. that took some effort.
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03-29-2022, 08:22 AM #9Screaming And Flying!
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These boats have core just on the running surface to keep weight down. They are not designed to be wave breakers and are made on the lighter side. If weight is not a big concern, you can core the whole boat bottom if it needs the x-tra strength.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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03-29-2022, 09:15 AM #105000 RPM
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yea, that's the rub, where I plan on running it, or where it get run. I've main run my checkmate on the weekends, I think that I've one true run without waves bouncing her ll over. So I agree that the running surface should be just the center, that just doesn't happen too often. my last run with the boat was with 8 inch chop, running into the wind, you could see the bottom flexing a lot. and you could feel the bottom air out, but then get suck back down. when it got suck back down, the outer bottom gets involved. I was planning on building this boat for three lakes, where you run into rough water. (but that is now all done)
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06-16-2022, 11:03 PM #11
Avengers of this size did not have a core. I have a 17' Mach II and I rebuild all of the structural pieces. Mine had a center stringer, and two side stringers running up the inner lift strakes. Also, the floor itself adds quite a bit of rigidity, as do the seats when they are laminated in. I can show you some pics of my rebuild, if you're interested.
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06-17-2022, 08:54 AM #125000 RPM
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I haven't had time yet to cut the floor on my boat to see what I'm dealing with. I don't think he used real plywood for the floor, and I'm not sure its flared onto the hull to give it the support it should. My thought was that he removed all the foam that was between the floor and hull and that removed a lot of support from the hull. i would love to see pictures of your work. I'm finishing up my little jetboat right now, the Avenger is going back into the shop next,
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06-21-2022, 09:53 AM #13The Historic Photo Master
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...make sure the hull is supported true, front to back, side to side, with no longitudinal twist of the hull, etc., before starting the new core and/or glass work...
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06-21-2022, 10:18 AM #145000 RPM
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my plan is first to remove a 2 foot section of floor to try to see what the other guy did. If I do remove the floor, I plan on leaving it on the 4 bunk trailer for support and not remove the deck or the transom. the transom is already not straight. but the bottom is. so when the other guy removed the floor and transom, he didn't do something right. I paid S&R Marine to redo my 21 checkmate. Transom and 6 feet of stringers. He did it without removing the deck, or cutting the outer glass. He talked with Checkmate and built it back the same way they built it.
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