Who works on E-tecs and has a test tank or dyno North Florida area

[bakerfreak]

E-tec on a Hydrostream. Local dealers either won't work on it or won't water test it.

I'd be willing to travel as far as Orlando or Savannah.

[Will hedrick]

C and o marine has certified mechanics, but they are up here in tn, worked on both of my etech motors, good people

[MrG]

If your tired of the electrical issues and it’s a 3.3 ltr you could do the ocean pro 225 swap and have 325 Hp on a stock engine I have done several swaps one engine I’ve got has 380 + hp

[bakerfreak]

That sounds like a really good idea. It's already on an earlier 3.1 mid. Do you swap the heads, carb setup and electrical onto the etec or do you swap the entire powerhead?

It's my son's boat. He's still embracing the green idea but rapidly getting disgusted.

[Instigator]

A lil farther but track down bajamerc on here.

He has forgotten more about e-tec’s than we will ever learn.

[JPEROG]

I agree with Gary. Call Kevin, those were his babies for a long time until recently when he has decided to go to the dark side (mercury) with four strokes.

Joe

[Instigator]

And has been shunned by our secret society ��

until recently when he has decided to go to the dark side (mercury) with four strokes.

Joe

[MrG]

Well I’ve done this swap it’s fairly straight forward keep the 3.3 if you just want to have a easy fix one afternoon of work here are the bits you can keep the heads just remove the injectors and leave the nozzles attached remove throttle body’s flywheel and upper bearing Swap over entire harness and regulator keep fuel pump and filter remove everything else install carbs 225 preferably rejet to .84 mains also open up float bowl seats to 1/16 drill bit or reamer / stock block will preform good with stock head would have to go up in pitch 1 or 2 inches on prop stock block needs this removed and ports cleaned up and exhaust raised to 1.69 from deck of block with cut for dome pistons on ocean pro heads then this engine will run better and more efficient with about 350 Hp and torque @ 6700 … to get more than that you need a good port job and long rods forged pistons then you can rev to 8 k and make big power DBR sleeves are the way to go to get there they already did all the work 385 on carbs isn’t bad for old school I run BUHW NGK plugs in mine idles like a ocean pro smooth with smokeless XD100 50/1 port casting removed

[MrG]

Also some Carson reeds are a good ticket to do wile messing with it those reed changes are the time consumer but well worth it for smooth running and power

[Instigator]

I’m sorry but, dyno sheets please.

Well I’ve done this swap it’s fairly straight forward keep the 3.3 if you just want to have a easy fix one afternoon of work.

stock block needs this removed and ports cleaned up and exhaust raised to 1.69 from deck of block with cut for dome pistons on ocean pro heads then this engine will run better and more efficient with about 350 Hp and torque @ 6700 … to get more than that you need a good port job and long rods forged pistons then you can rev to 8 k and make big power DBR sleeves are the way to go to get there they already did all the work 385 on carbs isn’t bad for old school

[Will hedrick]

Etech motors are the hardest motors to do anything with, if you really wanting to turn it up, you basically have to go all the way down and rebuild it from the bottom up is what Monty racing told me, get ready for about 35 k for them to do it with a cut mid

[David]

I dunno, with today’s gas prices, my 200XS and 150 HO Etec look pretty good

[MrG]

This is tru if you rely on making a living on the water:/ it’s no different if you had a chevell SS you only use it when you want but to buy a new one and let it sit 6 months to use it makes no sense to buy and watch it depreciated / any running over 4K fuel consumption is really close they are efficient down low rpms but when they came out carb for 12 k or 15 k for opti /do 3 k is a lot of fuel to use would take the average boater 7 8 years so my opinion is if there is lost power to push around I’d rather have it on reserve at the blip of throttle am be propped for the extra horses and cruse efficiently then be stuck with limited horsepower you can’t tap because it would cost you more than a gasket set and some carbide burrs at 10 each and some sanding cones for 40 kit tear it down zip lock and number everything and make a extra 100 Hp if you just make every rod and piston wt uniform within 1/2 gram that winter project would rip some water up and when you see how much power is on tap with something you did it’s very rewarding to have a beast that seems to be stock but isn’t ..all air moving thru a 2stk will turn a corner but the fuel won’t it puddles and limits power so radius the path an get efficiency and power a Winn Winn

[bakerfreak]

Well I’ve done this swap it’s fairly straight forward keep the 3.3 if you just want to have a easy fix one afternoon of work here are the bits you can keep the heads just remove the injectors and leave the nozzles attached remove throttle body’s flywheel and upper bearing Swap over entire harness and regulator keep fuel pump and filter remove everything else install carbs 225 preferably rejet to .84 mains

Thanks Mr. G my son and I are already working on this mod. When you say .84 mains do you mean #84 main jets or to drill them out to .084? How about if we just got main jets from a 300?

[bakerfreak]

This is tru if you rely on making a living on the water:/ it’s no different if you had a chevell SS you only use it when you want but to buy a new one and let it sit 6 months to use it makes no sense to buy and watch it depreciated / any running over 4K fuel consumption is really close they are efficient down low rpms but when they came out carb for 12 k or 15 k for opti /do 3 k is a lot of fuel to use would take the average boater 7 8 years so my opinion is if there is lost power to push around I’d rather have it on reserve at the blip of throttle am be propped for the extra horses and cruse efficiently then be stuck with limited horsepower you can’t tap because it would cost you more than a gasket set and some carbide burrs at 10 each and some sanding cones for 40 kit tear it down zip lock and number everything and make a extra 100 Hp if you just make every rod and piston wt uniform within 1/2 gram that winter project would rip some water up and when you see how much power is on tap with something you did it’s very rewarding to have a beast that seems to be stock but isn’t ..all air moving thru a 2stk will turn a corner but the fuel won’t it puddles and limits power so radius the path an get efficiency and power a Winn Winn

For sure. The boat will be used a couple of times a week for skiing and play. For the $600 cost to replace one injector you can buy 120 gallons of fuel at $5 a gallon.