My MGB

**Onetime** · 02-02-2023, 05:55 PM

Have you seen this MGB shop. Doing restorations and restomods. Read an article about them found it interesting.

https://snakeriverclassics.com/

**Instigator** · 02-02-2023, 06:03 PM

Not that far in yet.

I am seeing that to do these motors stock is cheap, to hot rod one?
Not so much!

Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy

What oil do you guys run? All or most of the early 911 guys run Brad Penn because of the zinc content. I just flushed mine twice and the oil is now clear. Time to order oil. And to fill mine it is about 100 bucks not including the filter, drain washers, and gaskets for the sump.

**Instigator** · 02-02-2023, 06:12 PM

Actually, I have.

And I like them a lot.
Pays homage to the MG marque while applying current tech to it.
I really like their motor of choice too.

As I go down this path I continue to remind myself, this ain’t about going fast.
I sold that car.

This car stock, at 90 hp was an absolute hoot!

W/rebuilt suspension and 150 hp, I hope to be content w/it.

Originally Posted by Onetime

Have you seen this MGB shop. Doing restorations and restomods. Read an article about them found it interesting.

https://snakeriverclassics.com/

**CDave** · 02-05-2023, 05:22 PM

Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy

What oil do you guys run? All or most of the early 911 guys run Brad Penn because of the zinc content. I just flushed mine twice and the oil is now clear. Time to order oil. And to fill mine it is about 100 bucks not including the filter, drain washers, and gaskets for the sump.

Best oil I ever ran across was Schaeffer Oil. When I was working my first job as a diesel mech. when it came time to overhaul any of the diesel's running this oil the rod and main bearings looked brand new. The cylinder liners still had great cross hatch on them.
When they switched oil to one of the big brands, I forget which one, when it came time to overhaul a diesel engine everything looked like it needed changing.

When I install the 383 I'm building for my truck I'm gonna switch from Shell Rotella T6 to Schaeffer SynShield OTR Plus.

Schaeffer Oil---> https://www.amazon.com/Schaeffer-Man...st_sto_dp&th=1

**BarryStrawn** · 02-06-2023, 12:07 AM

Originally Posted by Instigator

150 hp

I may have missed it. Are you supercharging?

**CDave** · 02-06-2023, 06:09 AM

Originally Posted by BarryStrawn

I may have missed it. Are you supercharging?

I shouldn't say anything but he has a bunch of performance decals. Each one is worth at least 5hp so...

**Instigator** · 02-06-2023, 06:24 AM

Nope.

N.A.

I like old school and as little complication as possible.

Originally Posted by BarryStrawn

I may have missed it. Are you supercharging?

**BarryStrawn** · 02-06-2023, 04:09 PM

150HP from a BMC B takes a lot of imagination.

**Forkin' Crazy** · 02-06-2023, 05:28 PM

Originally Posted by CDave

Best oil I ever ran across was Schaeffer Oil. When I was working my first job as a diesel mech. when it came time to overhaul any of the diesel's running this oil the rod and main bearings looked brand new. The cylinder liners still had great cross hatch on them.
When they switched oil to one of the big brands, I forget which one, when it came time to overhaul a diesel engine everything looked like it needed changing.

When I install the 383 I'm building for my truck I'm gonna switch from Shell Rotella T6 to Schaeffer SynShield OTR Plus.

Schaeffer Oil---> https://www.amazon.com/Schaeffer-Man...st_sto_dp&th=1

I used to run that in my diesels, but after putting 300K on my dually on regular oil, I figured it wasn't worth it unless you stretched the changes out to at least 10-15K.

Brad Penn, or now called Penn has zinc and phosphorous in it. More or less made for older engines without emissions.

https://penngrade1.com/

Nice article.

https://rislone.com/blog/engine-oil/...older-engines/

**Instigator** · 02-06-2023, 05:34 PM

Yes, sir.
As you know, I’m OK with swimming up stream.

Getting accurate info has been an issue though.

Lots of old school guys that only do it one way, same as has been done since they were new, 50 yrs ago.

Then there’s the SCCA crowd that it is limited to what they can do by class rules, which I have none of.

Then you have the Brits that list Hp at the rear wheels, which they call the rolling road and have wildly variable #s.

I really wanted to team up w/a shop, and still may, for parts and machine work in exchange for info.

From what I can tell, the best stock B (18V) motor made 102 hp at the crank.

So if I can add 50% to that w/my mods, which is fairly standard fare to most stock motors, I’m done.

Bottom line is, I’m having a blast and frankly could care less where I end up.

Originally Posted by BarryStrawn

150HP from a BMC B takes a lot of imagination.

**Instigator** · 02-12-2023, 07:03 PM

Forgot how much fun drum brakes were!

Rear suspension bushing upgrade/replacement is done, as is conversion to modern, adjustable shocks and of course brakes.

I should now have brakes on all 4 corners compared to the one when I bought it!

Was 65 here in Ohio today and I came close to dropping it on the ground to go for a ride.

**Dave S** · 02-13-2023, 02:33 AM

My dad had a bug eye,,,,, I sat in the rear SEAT....?

......Went up to the state park,,,,,, what a ride......150 HP.....?.....I have a Fiat 124 spyder that I am going to get going Sooooome day..

,,,,,Was thinking of puttting on 2 Merc carbs from a 2.5..... the pumpers..... Kinda like webers.......

.....

**Forkin' Crazy** · 02-13-2023, 04:27 PM

Ah, brakes... More important than the go button. All of my calipers have been restored by professionals, new rubber lines, pads, and hardware. Needless to say it put a quite a dent in my pocketbook! I DID reseal the master myself though,

And my parking brake is a DRUM assembly INSIDE the rear calipers. And very effective!

Looks awesome!!! Simple things can be so fun!