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  1. #121
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    More pics. Cold weather has me preparing everything to start the transom. Copied the clamps everyone else had good success with.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  3. #122
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    I need some advice in closing off the foam boxes, better yet how to go about it with glass. Whos got some experience with this? Do I need filler pieces over the foam, then glass over that? Since this photo was taken, I have shaved the foam flush in preperation.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  4. #123
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    I would think some very thin wood or even cardboard can make the structure and then just glass over it. I would remove them and replace with a stringer but it is a PITA to do I hear. Also, start keeping all your cottage cheese containers, sour cream containers, anything plastic that you can mix resin in. I have bags full of them so I don't need to reuse the containers that are all messy from using during layup.
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

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  6. #124
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    I did consider some vey thin balsa, I have a LOT of it from rc plane building.

    I'm keeping the foam for now, since its all dry.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  7. #125
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    Found a 12"x24" 3/32 fiberglass sheet laying around the shop. Problem solved
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  9. #126
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    Spent some time preparing the boat today, final grinding and such. Fiberglass starts next weekend!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  11. #127
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    Everything happens fairly quickly once I started mixing resin, but I grabbed a few picture of the progress. Did a mix of cabosil and chop to fill the transitions and voids. Next will be 3 layers of 1708 over the whole transom.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  13. #128
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    [QUOTE=VkingMike;3330748]Everything happens fairly quickly once I started mixing resinQUOTE]

    Ain’t that the truth. You know your hopping when your drenched in sweat after a layup session
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  15. #129
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    It's already so much stronger than it was, I'm actually impressed. once its all closed in and the stringer/knees are in its going to be solid as hell.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  17. #130
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    Final layers of 1708 over the Coose transom, Stringers, pad core material are in. Also closed in where I cut the foam boxes back with 2 pieces of 1708. This was an intense part of glassing, as there were a lot of things that had to happen and be put into place at once. Luckily I've had some experienced help with most of the lays so far. Without that, this process would be a lot slower.

    I also have all of the core material precut and ready, so thats up next. Work up the bow, then back down with the final layer of glass. I pulled the boat out this morning to let it bake in the sun all day to really get hard.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  19. #131
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    I've searched around and read a lot of opinions on bolting the motor on through Coosa. Some say to sleeve the Coosa, some say its not necessary. Any input on this subject from anyone thats used this in their transom?
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  20. #132
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    I spent a lot of time reading and thinking about what to do with the transom coosa bolt issue. In the end I have 3/8” glass on either side of the coosa. I am not going to use sleeves I am using 1/2” stainless rod that I am cutting to fit and threading the ends fine thread myself along with brass nylocs. Going to torque 20-30 ftlbs. I have a sheet of 1/2 aluminum I am going to cut plates or big washers out of as well. I’ll be using 4200 on the bolts as well as resin coating the inside of the holes. I think that’s it but I may change my plan a bit because I’m not there yet. I did bolt the transom eyes through to flip the hull and wow, strong. Not really worried at this point
    Hydrostream dreamin

  21. #133
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    Just add glass where the bolts come thru. 3/8'' is all you need to prevent crush. Skip the alum plate and just use some SS fender washers. Mine is exactly this way and no problems after many, many, years of abuse. Torque to an even amount. 25-30 is good. Just check torque after 20 hrs of operation to give some confirmation of no change.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  23. #134
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    With the size of the knees I did for added strength, I've been kicking around the idea of fuel tanks on either side of the floor under the splashwell delete. Something like 12 gallon on both sides. Rather than a valve or having to manually switch it, I was going to do a 1" transfer tube from tank to tank at the very back / bottom. I don't really see any issue as the transfer tube will keep both tanks at the same level. Single pickup on one of the tanks. Any thoughts or suggestion are always welcome.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  24. #135
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    You could do dual tanks. It just complicates things. Need 2 fills and 2 vents. Would need a valve on each tank in case the hose was to fail. Always overdo safety with fuel. Also when filling with fuel it would help to stop the flow between the two. Esp. if you add oil then gas up.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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