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Thread: 1983 Vking rebuild
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01-10-2022, 02:02 PM #46
If I was starting over I’d probably use plywood for my transom too just to save on nvh as well as take away any strength concerns. I did lay a pile of 1708 and 1808 on the transom though. I ended up with a little over 1/4” thick outer skin and inner skin plus all the knee and splashwell tie ins on top of that that the engine bolts with go through. I’m using 1/2” aluminum sheet to make backers out of as well.
I did consider using carbon fiber tube in the mount holes but after testing my transom eyes it seems plenty strong. Time will tellHydrostream dreamin
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01-10-2022, 02:33 PM #47Screaming And Flying!
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I used some SS fender washers on the inside engine bolts for mine (2'' dia) and that was it. No problems after 5+ years. Just for reference.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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LakeFever liked this post
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01-11-2022, 03:04 AM #48
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01-11-2022, 09:42 AM #49
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01-11-2022, 09:45 AM #50
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LakeFever liked this post
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01-11-2022, 11:33 AM #51
I did two lays of 1708 under the core plus the thin areas got spot patches of 1708 as well. Vacuum bagging is the highest quality you can accomplish. Fujimo on here built boats for years and his comment on hand laying vs vacuum bagging is the best I’ve read. It went something like “hand laying glass can be done at very high quality, vacuum bag laying glass can be done at very high quality and be very light” to which he went on to explain on a small boat like these maybe 10-20% less weight total with an entirely bagged build.
I also considered it but thought it added another layer of complexity to a process I was totally new at and was warned it’s probably not the best approach to do your first bagging glass on a hull where you life depends on the outcome. I decided I could control the process better by hand and to that end I do believe I accomplished a safe layup.
A good bag job is awesome though, really the cream of the crop quality wise it can’t be beatHydrostream dreamin
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rjdubiel liked this post
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01-11-2022, 12:42 PM #52
One thing we all agree on: Follow some simple rules and no matter the process or the materials used it will be a better boat than when it came out of the factory!
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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01-11-2022, 12:50 PM #53
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rjdubiel liked this post
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01-11-2022, 01:56 PM #54
It’s a tough process to decide what route to take but since Tnels build thread things took a real turn upwards for us newbs. All I can do is offer up what little I have learned to help the next guys along best I can
Hydrostream dreamin
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tnelsmn thanked for this post
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01-11-2022, 02:01 PM #55
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LakeFever liked this post
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01-12-2022, 08:23 AM #56
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01-13-2022, 08:29 AM #57
More pics from last nights digging around. After the jackplate was removed yesterday, I came back to crying transom holes lol... I'm excited to get this torn out and rebuild to my standards. Picking up all materials today. Any guess on how much 1708 I'll need for this going back together? I was thinking a full roll of 50" wide.
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tnelsmn liked this post
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01-13-2022, 10:12 AM #58
Yup that’s a good start along with a pail of resin,
mekp hardener ( get the bigger one it don’t go bad ) cabosil, couple finned rollers, some chip brushes, mixing cups, stir sticks, latex gloves, and some whiz rollers with disposable tray liners. We used 10cc syringes to measure out the catalyst by volume. What type of resin are you going to use?Hydrostream dreamin
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01-13-2022, 10:40 AM #59
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LakeFever liked this post
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01-13-2022, 05:50 PM #60
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