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  1. #46
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    If I was starting over I’d probably use plywood for my transom too just to save on nvh as well as take away any strength concerns. I did lay a pile of 1708 and 1808 on the transom though. I ended up with a little over 1/4” thick outer skin and inner skin plus all the knee and splashwell tie ins on top of that that the engine bolts with go through. I’m using 1/2” aluminum sheet to make backers out of as well.

    I did consider using carbon fiber tube in the mount holes but after testing my transom eyes it seems plenty strong. Time will tell
    Hydrostream dreamin

  2. #47
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    I used some SS fender washers on the inside engine bolts for mine (2'' dia) and that was it. No problems after 5+ years. Just for reference.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  4. #48
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Laser ltv transom and knee detail.

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  6. #49
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    How much glass and what type do you guys recommend I lay on the bare hull before installing the core? Is the 1708 good for under and over the core?
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  7. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by VkingMike View Post
    How much glass and what type do you guys recommend I lay on the bare hull before installing the core? Is the 1708 good for under and over the core?
    I did 12 oz under my core and 1708 over. I Would do 1708 under and bed the core in the wet glass, if you can vacuum bag the core it will be even better.
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

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  9. #51
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    I did two lays of 1708 under the core plus the thin areas got spot patches of 1708 as well. Vacuum bagging is the highest quality you can accomplish. Fujimo on here built boats for years and his comment on hand laying vs vacuum bagging is the best I’ve read. It went something like “hand laying glass can be done at very high quality, vacuum bag laying glass can be done at very high quality and be very light” to which he went on to explain on a small boat like these maybe 10-20% less weight total with an entirely bagged build.

    I also considered it but thought it added another layer of complexity to a process I was totally new at and was warned it’s probably not the best approach to do your first bagging glass on a hull where you life depends on the outcome. I decided I could control the process better by hand and to that end I do believe I accomplished a safe layup.

    A good bag job is awesome though, really the cream of the crop quality wise it can’t be beat
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  11. #52
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    One thing we all agree on: Follow some simple rules and no matter the process or the materials used it will be a better boat than when it came out of the factory!
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

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  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjdubiel View Post
    One thing we all agree on: Follow some simple rules and no matter the process or the materials used it will be a better boat than when it came out of the factory!
    Absolutely, that's why I'm here to share the build and ask all these questions. It's much appreciated for first timer
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  15. #54
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    It’s a tough process to decide what route to take but since Tnels build thread things took a real turn upwards for us newbs. All I can do is offer up what little I have learned to help the next guys along best I can
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  17. #55
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    I'm picking up the Divinycell H80 scored back this week. I measured out the surface area and added some for waste. I'm going to get some 3/4 straight non scored for stringers and floor.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  19. #56
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    I was just wishful thinking, or delaying the inevitable with the transom. I removed the jackplate and inspected the holes, dry as can be... Dug into the top fiberglass seem where the splash well delete meets the top of the transom since it was splitting, and its wet up top.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  21. #57
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    More pics from last nights digging around. After the jackplate was removed yesterday, I came back to crying transom holes lol... I'm excited to get this torn out and rebuild to my standards. Picking up all materials today. Any guess on how much 1708 I'll need for this going back together? I was thinking a full roll of 50" wide.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  23. #58
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    Yup that’s a good start along with a pail of resin,
    mekp hardener ( get the bigger one it don’t go bad ) cabosil, couple finned rollers, some chip brushes, mixing cups, stir sticks, latex gloves, and some whiz rollers with disposable tray liners. We used 10cc syringes to measure out the catalyst by volume. What type of resin are you going to use?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  24. #59
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    I'm thinking the suggested Vinylester.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  26. #60
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    Materials in hand. A bit more expensive than I expected, but vinylester resin is pretty high right now at $400 a bucket.

    I expected above $1000, so I was out the door at $1527
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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