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  1. #16
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    crazy how these hull still hold together with all the rot. I was also amazed at how thin the outer hull is, but if you think about it, all the force is on the inside of the hull from the water pushing up on the hull. So the stronger side needs to be on top of the core as far as glass goes. Looks like you are well on your way!
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

  2. #17
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    I dug all the rotten core out of the pad area and started cutting and chipping around the drain plug. Also started cutting out the foam sections, which is how I realized it wasn't really bonded with the hull. Tonight all be cutting the outer skin off and moving forward. All of the excessive globed up resin doesn't seem right to me, but its getting removed anyways. You can really see it in the picture of the drain hole picture where I started removing fiberglass. Its caked in the corners.
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    Last edited by VkingMike; 01-05-2022 at 04:32 PM.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  4. #18
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    Went over after work tonight and did a couple hours. Wanted to get some cutting done to get to the foam and see what's going. Lots of wet pockets and foam not properly bonded. Next it starts coming out.
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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  6. #19
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    Ok guys a few more hours today and all of the core is out of the boat. Now is where I come to you for some guidance and the next step. I know I have a lot grinding from here, but my question is about the stringer. I've attached a few photos and I'm wanting to know about the best way to cut the rest of it out. It appears there are different layers? I pointed at the area to try and help. It's like it steps down twice into the pad?
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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  8. #20
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    I'm not sure why the photos are not oriented properly, hopefully you can still tell what I'm talking about
    Last edited by VkingMike; 01-06-2022 at 07:50 PM.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  9. #21
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    A couple tools that proved invaluable in my build are an oscillating tool and a half inch belt grinder. Those two should be what you need to cut out the stringers and detail the inside of the pad area. As for the pics it’s kinda hit and miss with the orientation here. I use preview post under advanced and rotate the pics to suit the mood of the board that day lol. Even then it doesn’t always end up with pics the right way. It’s all good, adds some character to the place
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  11. #22
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    I'm new here also. If your using your phone take the picture sideways. You can also turn vertically taken pictures in your gallery (on phone). Probably the wrong way to do it because they show up smaller. Now if I could just figure out how to enlarge them.
    Kinda old school but a sharp chisel and hammer might help you get that stringer cleaned out. When you go to grinding or sanding a shop vac to catch your debris directly off of said tools will make life more pleasant.
    Keep up the good work!
    Last edited by OnPad; 01-06-2022 at 11:17 PM.

  12. #23
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    Thank you guys, I just wanted to try and keep from going through the hull as much as possible. The oscillating tool has already been the most handy tool purchased for removing core and cutting glass with less dust. I'll just take it slow and start by removing the actual stringer and goin from there. Since they already half way cored the boat once, there are few extra layers of fiberglass over the entire hull which makes things a bit tougher to get smooth.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  13. #24
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    Mine had a hole by your feet when I got mine. It delaminated on me there some first time out. Previous owner had it recored but they never went into the bow and the core they did do from the front of the floor back to the transom came out as they did not bed it very well to the outer skin of the hull. My favorite tool for grinding was the super messy and dusty grinder with 36 grip flapper disk. Baby power up and go to town. Sucks, but was way faster than any sanding tools I had.
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

  14. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjdubiel View Post
    Mine had a hole by your feet when I got mine. It delaminated on me there some first time out. Previous owner had it recored but they never went into the bow and the core they did do from the front of the floor back to the transom came out as they did not bed it very well to the outer skin of the hull. My favorite tool for grinding was the super messy and dusty grinder with 36 grip flapper disk. Baby power up and go to town. Sucks, but was way faster than any sanding tools I had.
    That's what they did on mine as well, it was only re-cored from the seats back. I'm lucky it didn't fail as all of the core from my seat forward was wet and rotten. For grinding I've got a pack of the 36 grit flappers, they do a quick job of it, but its messy. Oh well, its gotta get done!
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  15. #26
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    Its a crudely made windows paint photo, but the area of the pad in question is in the light blue color. It seems to run along both outer edges of the pad most of the way to the front where the pad fades out. I also outlined it showing the small step of fiberglass. Does that need to come out as well?
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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  16. #27
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    On the stringer. You plan on going back with same design? If not, what kind of subfloor structure is in your mind?

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  17. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    On the stringer. You plan on going back with same design? If not, what kind of subfloor structure is in your mind?
    Honestly I'm unsure of what type of stringer I'll do yet when it goes back together. I was definitely going to take opinions on the best way to set this up. Which I figured would matter on how I cut the rest of the stock stringer out, so I didn't wanna get too crazy before asking.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  18. #29
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    You can make a new box stringer to match the one you have. Or repair the old one. (I reused the one from my boat). You can make a stringer mold by using melamine board which is easy to glass on. Or use plywood and glass over it. ORRR you could use some synthetic coreboard and glass over that. Whew! lot of options. My way of thinking is, the boat had a glass box stringer from the factory. Do a good core job on either side and glass it all together and it will be strong. The flat top of the box makes a good center floor support. To me it's simple and strong. Lots of other ways with complex side to side bulkheads etc. But these are small spans and light weight is important. For a floor I used 1/2' core board glassed lightly under and medium heavy on the top. Tabbed in on the edges with bi axial glass strips.
    Last edited by XstreamVking; 01-07-2022 at 02:06 PM.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  20. #30
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    Here's how that area of the hull looked on mine once I got it all out. I used a Dynafile like LakeFever mentioned to clear out all the corners.

    They're not the greatest pictures but you get the idea. There's still wood left to be removed on yours where the plug goes in. Most likely core under there. I added a shot of the mess mine was when I tore into it. The transom had been replaced before and a LOT of extra resin has made its way into the bilge area.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_5340.jpg   IMG_5314.jpg   IMG_5312.jpg  

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