1983 Vking rebuild

[LakeFever]

Looks really good! Your almost done

[VkingMike]

Ok guys, question.

I have the old holes still visible from where the jackplate was mounted beforehand, but what is the best way to center and make sure everything is square to drill the new holes or at least verify the old ones are good? I ask because I have found that nothing inside or outside of these boats is symmetrical. Hell measuring for the center steer had me scratching my head because everything side to side wasn't the same lol.

[JPEROG]

You want to center everything on the transom from the pad. I am fortunate to have Porta Products in my back yard so I use one of their transom jigs to clamp on and drill square. That is what you need "transom jig" with drill guides so your holes are square through the transom and backer plates all line up. You are close, tell Scott I told you to call-he will treat you right.

Joe

[VkingMike]

Thanks Joe, Thats right up the street from my work essentially. I definitely want the motor square after doing all this work.

[XstreamVking]

Laser level......

[LakeFever]

I’m with xstream. I’m using a cross line laser off the center of my pad and drilling transom holes level to the laser on center. Height wise I don’t know yet but high as safely possible.

The drill fixture is badass if you can get one. I might fab up something for this

[VkingMike]

I did some measuring last night and the old holes in the outer glass seem to be spot on with actual center. If all checks out, I'll just need to borrow a jig for drilling, which I have access to.

If you guy have any examples of using a laser level, I would love to see. I guess I'm having trouble picturing how to go about it.

[LakeFever]

If you want to verify center you need a cross line self levelling laser level. Referencing all off the pad only to sit the boat level for and aft and side to side. Meaning the pad is perfectly level on front back and side to side. Then at the rear near the drain plug so you can see it from the back, measure and mark center of the pad with a pencil, not a marker you want a fine accurate center line. Measure five times lol.

Measure the center of the transom both vertical and horizontal and make a small mark in the center. Move the level to the rear of the boat and broadcast the cross line parallel to the bottom of the pad which you know to be true level as well as the vertical beam on your center mark of transom and that will give you true center up the transom square to the pad and it’s center. Simply copy that over tape and pencil, Mark your height and drill square to that center line. Then your motor will be perfectly centered and square to the pad. Hope this makes sense

[VkingMike]

Ahhh ok. That did help, thank you. I'll be testing this after work today.

Here is what I did last night, 3 layers of overlapping1708 to cover the splashwell. Then did the torn CSM at the end on the transom itself. I originally planned to go down the transom further, but was told it really isn't all that necessary. As of right now, that is the last of the glass work for this boat! (other than the spots you can see on the transom I'll fill) I wanted to try and keep the original lines that flow into the splashwell and I'm happy with how it came out. Just a bit of fairing to do over this to smooth it out and then paint.

[LakeFever]

Really clean work! Nice cat eye with race stars there too

[rjdubiel]

I did only one layer of 1708 or was it 1808, either way I only did one over the delete and only went 1 inch down the outside of the transom. Then one layer inside where the delete and transom meet, a 4 inch wide strip is all I did to tie it all together. You are bulletproof with this build!

[VkingMike]

Really clean work! Nice cat eye with race stars there too

Thats a buddy's build still waiting to get lowered. Built 5.3 12:1ish I've been working on the tune for it to get everything dialed in, should be a fun street truck

[VkingMike]

I tackled the bow eye replacement last night, which with the cap on is just silly in all honesty. The bolts were seized, so I had to cut it from the outside, then try and push the pieces inwards. Top contacted the nose cap, so I had to crawl in with an air saw and ear plugs. The amount of load cursing that echoed from inside the bow of my Vking last night was probably heard for blocks, so good thing I'm in the woods.

The good news is, the wood is in excellent shape and I was actually surprised at how thick the hull is up there. I made an aluminum backing plate for my piece of mind anyways.

[Jim Speros]

Great Thread. You have been getting after it at a marching pace. Nice work. I find it motivating. Thank you. Won't be long and I'll be taking my old girl apart.

Cheers

[VkingMike]

A couple tools that proved invaluable in my build are an oscillating tool and a half inch belt grinder.

I wanted to revisit this post so that others may find it easier. These two tools right here have been the most valuable in this rebuild. The 1/2 sander has been used in almost every part of the build specifically. Do not hesitate on picking this up if you are planning any boat restoration.