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  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    When I first saw how thin the outer glass was my first thought was “no wonder these things blow apart”. Less than 1/8” thick skin and one layer of roving. It’s mostly chop strand. It speaks volumes to how much strength the core brings and it gives me a ton of confidence in the restoration that it’s going to be strong and safe, just like yours will be. Keep after it your rolling ahead well
    Thank you, I started doubting myself and what I was doing for a minute there. I saw how thin they can be when I stuck my scraper through the back wing lol. Speaking of, what is a solid way to spot repair. Or is it necessary? Like do you patch it, then 1708 over it with my full transom piece?
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  2. #92
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    Feather the edges of the hole out an inch or two and lay in a few layers of CSM overlapping them smaller to bigger. Take a look at the early pages of my build, there's a lot of holes through the bottom of mine.

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  4. #93
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    Perfect, I just ordered some CSM for patching holes. I'm actually excited to get to the grinding phase after days of scraping and chipping.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  5. #94
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    I took some parchment paper and Bristol board and taped that under the holes and then laid a couple layers of 1.5oz csm and then one piece of 1708 each piece stepping past the one below it 2” or so in all directions. The tape doesn’t stick to the parchment paper so you have to cut the Bristol board or whatever light stiff’ish backer you can find. The resin does not stick to parchment paper at all. If your careful this will save a lot of hassle when you work on the exterior side of things. Mine didn’t go great I could do much better now but I was a newb then. I have to grind back some now and reapply
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  7. #95
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    Picked this up today, let the grinding begin...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  9. #96
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    That was one of my better investments as well. Might as well grab a box of N95 pre filters for the canisters. Thats what gets clogged up first when doing all the grinding. Those will greatly lengthen the life of the canisters. Not sure what the price and availability is on those now, I did most that work in the pre rona times.

    I forget what resin you're using, but with Poly like I used, wearing a respirator was almost a must. I had a few half face ones, one dedicated for me, and a few spares for helpers.

    Another tip to extend the canisters life. Pop them off and keep them in a zip loc bag. The charcoal style canisters are always absorbing once opened and putting them in a sealed container will make them last much longer. I used to put the entire half face respirator in a gallon freezer bag when not in use. If memory severs correct a set of canisters would last me for about 5gal of resin used.

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  11. #97
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    I've got vinyl ester, but I can imagine its not much different as far as fumes are concerned. I couldn't believe how much it filled the truck with fumes just on the drive back from purchasing it, and that was sealed up. I'll search for some pre filters now, I appreciate these tips for sure.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






  12. #98
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    I'll post pics from my laptop in a few hours. But I do not want to handle, hear, feel, or look at a grinder for a very long time after today.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  14. #99
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    Not a job anyone want's to do very often.

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  16. #100
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    Just a few pics. I had to spray out the boat there was so much dust, but I'm getting closer. Just a few more areas to feather out a clean up. Gelcoat is some serious stuff to grind off, and makes a hell of a mess. Sun should be out today, so a layer of 1708 should be going down. I decided to remove more of the foam boxes to make it flush front to rear. And each of of my fingers has wounds from the flapper wheel and I can see why they started putting automatic brakes on them. It's the continued spinning after letting off the trigger that got me each time. It looks worse than it is, sorry if anyone is squeamish lol
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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  18. #101
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    Need some heavier gloves those latex gloves aren't going to do **** against the grinder.. lol
    All the tore up glove on top does make it look pretty good tho
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  19. #102
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    Start cutting Coosa today, man does it make some nasty dust. Rough cut my transom pieces and ground them to fit, then cut stringers. I'll have do some templets for the curve and transom angle. I'll have enough left out of my sheet to do some braces up front and possible seat boxes. I'm raising the floor up about 3/4" over what it was previously. I left the transom pieces tall for now, I'll cut them before glassing.
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    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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  21. #103
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    Moving right along. Nice!
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  23. #104
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    Looks awesome man nice cuts/fitment. Yea the saw dust is real nasty and itchy !


    Hydrostream Voodoo Rebuild/Restoration
    Instagram: http://instagram.com/zammit_racing/
    Rebuild: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...ld-restoration
    Videos: https://youtube.com/channel/UCGy7j7CoScBfMiWNNYzgruA

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  25. #105
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    I'm using bluewater 26 3/4 Coosa in my transom. Is a single layer of 1708 between them enough?

    I do plan on drilling to relive air, how many holes is enough? Every 6" in a square pattern?
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L






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