User Tag List

Page 8 of 14 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 LastLast
Results 106 to 120 of 200
  1. #106
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Minneapolis MN
    Posts
    872
    Thanks (Given)
    164
    Thanks (Received)
    120
    Likes (Given)
    2484
    Likes (Received)
    912
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That should be fine between them.

  2. Thanks VkingMike thanked for this post
    Likes rjdubiel liked this post
  3. #107
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Osteen/Deltona, FL
    Posts
    183
    Thanks (Given)
    20
    Thanks (Received)
    5
    Likes (Given)
    126
    Likes (Received)
    193
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have someone helping me when it comes to laying resin and fiberglass. But wanted to ask, what is the best method with Vinyl ester resin. Do you put a layer of wetted mat and let it cure fully before doing the next or can you let it tack up and go over it with another layer, and so on? There is a lot of conflicting info on this, so I come here to ask the guys that have already done it.

    I just want to make sure this is done properly.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L

    https://ibb.co/qjP9rMN



  4. #108
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    27
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    3
    Likes (Given)
    8
    Likes (Received)
    40
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by VkingMike View Post
    I'm using bluewater 26 3/4 Coosa in my transom. Is a single layer of 1708 between them enough?

    I do plan on drilling to relive air, how many holes is enough? Every 6" in a square pattern?
    I put 1 layer between my Cossa board, thatís all you need, itís better to keep them close together so more you add the more it will push them apart. And I put 4 layers of 1708 on the inside of the transom and 1 layer wrapped over the whole transom, then 1708 tabs for the knees, then CSM over everything to tie all the tabs together worked really well.
    I never drilled and air relief holed in mine, seemed ok without used epoxy with cabosil to thicken it turned ok excellent

    Hydrostream Voodoo Rebuild/Restoration
    Instagram: http://instagram.com/zammit_racing/
    Rebuild: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...ld-restoration
    Videos: https://youtube.com/channel/UCGy7j7CoScBfMiWNNYzgruA

  5. Likes VkingMike liked this post
  6. #109
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    N. Idaho
    Posts
    290
    Thanks (Given)
    10
    Thanks (Received)
    25
    Likes (Given)
    214
    Likes (Received)
    108
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Haven't used v. ester but with poly you want to do as much layup as you can at once. It easier to get it to lay over a smooth surface vs a uneven hardened layup. I think with poly they say not to let it cure more than a day or two before laying more up or you don't get as good of adhesion. You can have a helper wetting glass out on a table and handing you the wetted out pieces might help with air in your layup. If not lay resin down then csm or cloth, you will have a hard time getting the cloth to take resin from just the topside, at least on the first layer. I'm no pro but I've done a little. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in.

  7. Likes VkingMike liked this post
  8. #110
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    3,078
    Thanks (Given)
    335
    Thanks (Received)
    283
    Likes (Given)
    2213
    Likes (Received)
    1766
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What to do and what you should do when your new are two different things. The best way to go is wet on wet lays IMO the more the better. Earlier I also suggested using torn csm on the edges of all 1708 lays which really smooths out the transitions and doesn’t require near the level of grinding afterwards plus it adds strength to the layup.

    the resin your using will have a secondary bonding window which you need to ask your supplier about. Derakane was 12 days. Meaning you can lay safely without grinding over lays as old as 12 days. Very handy for me I can tell you that much.

    regarding the coosa I didn’t put any glass in between I had done a ton of reading and the concept of a core is to add width to the structure similar to an I-beam does to steel. IMO your far better off putting lots of layers of 1708/1808 on the inside of the transom skin before setting in the coosa followed with lots of layers of 1708/1808 over the coosa to the hull tying it in. I have currently about 5/16” thick glass on the inside of the transom And about 1/4” on the outside. It’s around 5 or 6 lays of 1708 each side with more to come yet.

    I can’t see how laying 1708 in between could possibly hurt though so by all means if you want to do it do it. I also ran the 1708 right across the transom out to the wings I stepped each lay over the last 2” min.

    the only caution I would offer about wet on wet lays is getting ALL the air bubbles out is what makes a good lay and this is harder with multiple lays so if mix enough resin per lay only and go from there so you don’t end up having to stop and waste a bunch of catalyzed resin. Speaking of which 0.65ml of resin per square inch of 1708 is what I found was just about enough. It’s slightly more than you need for second wet layers though. Good luck!
    Hydrostream dreamin

  9. Likes VkingMike, OnPad liked this post
  10. #111
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Osteen/Deltona, FL
    Posts
    183
    Thanks (Given)
    20
    Thanks (Received)
    5
    Likes (Given)
    126
    Likes (Received)
    193
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thank you everyone for all information, this is why I'm here asking. I'm taking it all in, just to be more informed. I tend to way over think everything, but by doing so 9/10 times I end up with exactly what I wanted or am looking for.

    I'll contact the manufacture on my specific resin today, the window of overlays like that would definitely make this much easier. I'm planning on starting at the transom and getting that all done before moving any further. Seeing how thin the transom skin is, I'll be doing as suggested with multiple layers. Speaking of, I noticed a slight bow in the outer skin, so when laying new material what's the best way to keep it straight and not making that bow stronger after all said and done?
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L

    https://ibb.co/qjP9rMN



  11. Likes LakeFever liked this post
  12. #112
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    N. Idaho
    Posts
    290
    Thanks (Given)
    10
    Thanks (Received)
    25
    Likes (Given)
    214
    Likes (Received)
    108
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You should do your layup and add your transom boards while everything is wet and clamp. I wouldn't mix that batch of resin to hot, you will need some working time. You can add a piece of MDF or ply or whatever you got to outside of boat to clamp on. You can also pre drill transom boards and use bolts to help clamp that transom in. Might be a little stressful to get all that done. If you don't think you can pull it off you can always use thickened resin for bedding.
    Last edited by OnPad; 01-25-2022 at 09:15 AM.

  13. Likes VkingMike, LakeFever liked this post
  14. #113
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    3,078
    Thanks (Given)
    335
    Thanks (Received)
    283
    Likes (Given)
    2213
    Likes (Received)
    1766
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yes good points all onpad. My transom skin bowed too but I clamped it to a piece of 3/4” ply when I set the transom in and it flattened out nicely. I did mine one lay at a time just because my skill level was low and I wanted the time to work each lay and review before moving forward. If you did lay in 5-9 lays first and managed to clamp your transom board in on top wet that would be awesome and I would be very impressed.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  15. #114
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    27
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    3
    Likes (Given)
    8
    Likes (Received)
    40
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    My transom was bowed out as well I’m thinking is was from the frost in the winters form the wood being wet all the time and mine actually delaminated from fiberglass layers too. I per-drilled the motor bolt holes in the Cossa so then I drilled more holes in a 3/4” pice of plywood and clamped it sandwiching the outer skin and it was straight the next day after I took the clamps off.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	19123664-EC42-4D1A-84B6-D3B6D3D38DDF.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	421.1 KB 
ID:	500228Click image for larger version. 

Name:	9EE12726-D4B6-4198-BF40-5408C27E947D.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	414.9 KB 
ID:	500229

    Hydrostream Voodoo Rebuild/Restoration
    Instagram: http://instagram.com/zammit_racing/
    Rebuild: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...ld-restoration
    Videos: https://youtube.com/channel/UCGy7j7CoScBfMiWNNYzgruA

  16. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
  17. #115
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    N. Idaho
    Posts
    290
    Thanks (Given)
    10
    Thanks (Received)
    25
    Likes (Given)
    214
    Likes (Received)
    108
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    As lakeFeaver stated your won't be able to wet out as many layers as he uses. I was thinking 2 or 3 max at a time. You might want to start slow, get a feel for your pot life. Leave yourself 2 to go and add some thickened resin for transom install. I didn't have to use alot of glass on my ltv with marine ply and a 1/2 plate of aluminum on the outside. Temperature will have a considerable effect on how fast your resin will go off. It was cold when I did mine, and I didn't mix it hot , I had lots of time.

  18. #116
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Osteen/Deltona, FL
    Posts
    183
    Thanks (Given)
    20
    Thanks (Received)
    5
    Likes (Given)
    126
    Likes (Received)
    193
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    It will be mid 60's here next week. I think I will start with my first layer of 1708 and resin on the transom to get a feel for working time like you suggest. I called the manufacture and they suggest not laying a second piece after 24 hours or if it was beyond "fingerprint tacky" And that from there I should sand and re-apply the next layer.

    I'm not trying to rush this process from here, I don't want to waste product. I'm thinking of doing a few layers of the 1708 and let it cure, then use a thickened resin with cabosil to bed the coosa to the skin and clamp it. Use the rest of that thickened resin to smooth the edges and let it all cure. then go over it with layers of 1708. Does this sound about right to you guys?

    One last thing I am unsure of. When I am encapsulation the coosa on the final layers, how do you go about tying that in the the outer skin? Overlapping the 1708 down the back side?
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L

    https://ibb.co/qjP9rMN



  19. #117
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    N. Idaho
    Posts
    290
    Thanks (Given)
    10
    Thanks (Received)
    25
    Likes (Given)
    214
    Likes (Received)
    108
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Another thing to keep in mind is you will lose working time when you lay up over resin that is going off. As lakeFever stated lay each layer of 1708 past previous with torn csm strips on edges. I don't think you will have alot of luck wrapping glass over any kind of hard corners. Like you said fill edges of transom with thickened resin or you could soften the edges with a grinder or saw cut at 45 and grind to reduce filler. Then run your 1708 out past your transom with each layer overlapping by at least a couple inchs.

    Anyone else? Inquiring minds want to know.

  20. #118
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    3,078
    Thanks (Given)
    335
    Thanks (Received)
    283
    Likes (Given)
    2213
    Likes (Received)
    1766
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    IMO so long as the lays still feel a little sticky your good to go. Trying to sand the glass when it’s like that will be a disaster and I’m sure the bond will be strong. Do some small test pieces on the bench over a piece of scrap wood is always wise. Get to know the material
    Hydrostream dreamin

  21. #119
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Osteen/Deltona, FL
    Posts
    183
    Thanks (Given)
    20
    Thanks (Received)
    5
    Likes (Given)
    126
    Likes (Received)
    193
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    With cold temps in Florida (40's) I haven't attempted any resin mixing or glass work. I did cut patches for some areas, layering smaller to larger out of some 1oz mat. I'll use these to fix a few areas on the transom and the hole I scraped through the port side wing before layering with 1708. This gives me some extra time to really make the coosa stringers fit tightly.
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L

    https://ibb.co/qjP9rMN



  22. #120
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Osteen/Deltona, FL
    Posts
    183
    Thanks (Given)
    20
    Thanks (Received)
    5
    Likes (Given)
    126
    Likes (Received)
    193
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Did a test mix to get a feel for the material and how long the work time will be. Patched the hole I made and a spot on the transom skin that was separated. Did about 4-5 layers of 1.5oz CSM starting small to slightly bigger each time. Temps are 50, but its much warmer in the sun, gel time was bout 30 minutes mixed at 1.5% Now its ready for full lays of 1708 once the temps are in a better range.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	patchhole.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	264.1 KB 
ID:	500353Click image for larger version. 

Name:	transompatch.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	328.3 KB 
ID:	500354Click image for larger version. 

Name:	geltime.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	379.0 KB 
ID:	500355
    83 Vking 150 Mariner 2.5L

    https://ibb.co/qjP9rMN



  23. Likes LakeFever, tnelsmn liked this post
Page 8 of 14 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 1978 vking rebuild
    By rjdubiel in forum Fiberglass and Composites Discussion
    Replies: 155
    Last Post: 04-30-2021, 01:35 PM
  2. 1986 Hydrostream Venus 1983 Mercury 2.4 200 horsepower Trim Rebuild
    By reel patriot in forum General Boating Discussion
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-31-2018, 05:55 AM
  3. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-02-2013, 10:41 PM
  4. 1983 Hydrostream Vking Resto - core, transom, floor
    By WIPolaris in forum Fiberglass and Composites Discussion
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 01-20-2013, 09:46 PM
  5. motor rebuild omc v4 1983
    By MIKE OSBORNE in forum Technical Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-22-2004, 08:32 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Aeromarine Research