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12-23-2021, 03:22 PM #1Member
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12-23-2021, 03:28 PM #2
Thats factory OEM. First gen 300x motors came that way. So did early optimax 3.0L engines.
8' Yellow Jacket - 25 hp Mariner
1984 Hst VKing - 15" Bridgeport EFI
1990 Collins Mirage - 15" 260
22' Aquasport - 150 SeaPro Fourstroke
25 hp Merc that runs on ACETONE
25 hp Merc with dry side pipe
25 hp Merc with 11" mid and 2.42:1 gears
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12-23-2021, 03:35 PM #3Member
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12-23-2021, 03:39 PM #4The Historic Photo Master
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...early years of 3 liter gearcases, both fleetmasters & sportmasters. also as a service replacement gearcase for a couple years. offshore multi-engine 3 liter boats it was nice, as they could then fit all the different shaft length motors if needed to swap, for what ever reason was needed...
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12-23-2021, 03:41 PM #5The Historic Photo Master
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12-23-2021, 03:42 PM #6
Dont lose that spline piece I think they are about $800
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12-23-2021, 03:43 PM #7The Historic Photo Master
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...not to say you couldn't easily cut & weld one for a 15 though...
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12-23-2021, 03:53 PM #8Member
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12-23-2021, 04:08 PM #9
I just took out one that was on a 15" mid and swapped it out with a 1 piece...thats the easier route if you want to go to a 15" mid. Buy a new 1 piece 20" shaft and have it cut down to 15" for $150. With shipping and the cost of the shaft all said and done you get a brand new driveshaft for $550 or less. Of course, you could sent out just your upper shaft you have now and have it cut to 15"...but I personally don't like the slop that the connector introduces.
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MrG thanked for this post
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12-23-2021, 09:59 PM #10
Plenty of dead shafts out there to salvage the hardened end from and make a shorty - shorty upper out of. The coupler can't introduce harmonics .. but a weebly-wobbly shaft can ..
If your gonna buy a new shaft, get a single bearing 25". They are cheaper than a 20" and you just push the spacer off .. and you now have a two bearing shaft. (Keven K. @ Fuller taught me that trick)
$800 *^%^&*I)()&%$ dollars ... Are they out of their %^&**&% mind. Ohh thats right, it's a Mercury part .. well worth it @ twice the price ..
I found a great use for them little $800 dollar couplers.
I've had a few nice 3.2L cranks come thru my door that had the splines spun out of them from offshore banzzi running / racing. Yep, bore the end of the crank, turn down the coupler to an interference fit. Heat the crank, deep freeze the slug. Drop it in place, silicon bronze the tip of the stub .. Going off their track record. I think the case hardening might be stronger than the factory crank's splines ..
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12-23-2021, 11:55 PM #11
I like the idea if they had just made the coupler a bit longer and put some orings in the ends so you could grease it. I have modified a few with omc crank end oring retainers works nice no rust.
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12-24-2021, 12:45 PM #12
O ring retainer from an xflow omc crank end... perfect fit. On my omc to merc conversion i welded the coupling on the top side to the upper shaft.
Last edited by H2OPERF; 12-24-2021 at 12:54 PM.
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12-24-2021, 03:04 PM #13
Miami D.
As you know those shafts are chrome plated steel.
Great idea on how to keep the splines wet.
Between you G-man and Baja .. no wonder they ain't many used 3.0L sporty's floatin around ..
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12-26-2021, 11:54 AM #14
$800 in part's from Mercury ...
New wear sleeve and O-ring , from Pro Marine ... $10 bucks
And a few hours labor ..
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12-30-2021, 09:13 AM #15
Nice work!