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  1. #1
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    Evinrude 235 cold start

    I have had it with my 83 evinrude 235 hard start issues. I have replaced almost everything. Pistons, rings, reeds, gaskets and seals, been through the carbs at least 3 times, Timing base stator, power packs, fuel hoses, flywheel, plugs,wires, you name it. . Played with the jetting and adjusted the choke flaps ( yes my 1 3/8 carbs has the flaps on the lower carbs. I'm running 62 in the mains 31 intermed and 34 in the idle and have had all different sizes for trial. I finally sourced some 1985 carbs without the flaps and I am installing an automotive cold start valve in the intake with an electric 35 psi regulated fuel pump in the tank dedicated just to the cold start valve connected to the choke circuit. Hopefully i can get a good spray from it that will get the engine going cold. I've had to get a sprayer (garden sprayer ) and spray premix in the intake to get her going when cold or after running and a 10 minute soak period. Or else its so hard on the starter and batteries This thing is so cold natured.

  2. #2
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    Make sure the choke plates are closing all the way, the solenoid can be adjusted to allow more travel. Also too much throttle when trying to start will negate the choke system and allows the engine to suck too much air and no fuel. May not be too difficult to change over to the primer system.

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  4. #3
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    Thanks for the reply.
    90% of the time i havent given it any throttle to start and yes I have adjusted and made sure the choke flaps are closing completly even during cranking. Maybe I should open the throttle a touch but it seems like its over carbed already when cold. If I take a spray bottle and just spray the **** out of it warm or cold it will fire but not unless. Also once it fires and rumbles for a couple of seconde the idle smoothes out and its perfect . while running i can even take the throttle by hand and wackum there is no hesitation at all . Guess Ill see how my cold start valve works. It does spray a nice fog of fuel from it.

  5. #4
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    Starter/flywheel RPM is important. 240-270 RPM? My 90 XP175 has "quick start", that gives it more timing advance when cold, but I open the throttle just enough to just start to crack the throttles. Gives it a touch more advance, also. I have a primer cold start system that I activate, (before cranking), by pushing in the key. I keep priming it a few seconds, even after it starts. My starter kicks out prematurely sometimes, is my only cold start problem. Also check the spark, with a cold engine. 7/16" spark.
    91 Seaswirl 178 spyder sport. Evinrude XP175. (59 MPH, so far, and so close).
    85 Sleekcraft SST , 225 Johnson...(sold)

  6. #5
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    Very good points Z1rider, I was going there next. You mentioned it's hard on the starter and battery cables, that could be a contributor. Carb engines with choke plates have to spin fast to draw the fuel from the carb bowls. When you check spark have the spark plugs in so it is a true test, as mentioned above it should be at least a 7/16" gap with healthy blue spark. Trimming the engine down will help the choke as the fuel can get to the cylinders quicker. Just make sure the exhaust relief ports are not under water, if so the engine will not start. You need to give it a little throttle to cold start, may have to play with it some to get the "sweet spot".

    Did you use aftermarket ignition components? I've seen on a couple of Mercs where a CDI new CDI stator would not create enough voltage to fire the CDM's.

  7. #6
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    Get yourself a small primer pump and inject fuel in the 4 upper bypass covers. I have a 78 235 I have done this to and it works great. Use the push in fittings from the bleed system to hook to the bypass covers. I bought mine as a kit from land & sea way back when,but I think you could find a sm elect pump as a primer,not sure if the OMC primer would work or not.

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  9. #7
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    Check ball n spring in fttg. On top of gas tank can sometimes get obstructed over time/u can just knock check ball n spring outta gas tank pickup n that may unblock fuel to fuel pump in motor.
    Its the fttg.3/8’s hose clamps onto on top of gas tank.

  10. #8
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    Try a ole Merc trick, pull kill tether,crank and choke at same time for a few seconds. Reinstall and repeat. This rewets the crankcase and engine doesnt burn up the incoming fuel charge. My $.02

  11. #9
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    A 1983 would not have chokes in the carbs they have a primer valve that injects fuel behind the butterflies. This valve is mounted on the starboard side of carbs. You start by giving it a bit of throttle, make sure primer bulb is hard and then crank while holding key in (operates primer valve) and when it starts leave held in for a couple seconds. If you had choke plates you might want to post a photo.

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  13. #10
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    Yea i have choke plates on the lower 2 carbs and just a shaft on the top one . Someone must have installed these before I bought it. Actually someone did a lot of things before I bought it. Im working them out. I will update soon as i just got one cold start valve in the other day just waiting for the weather to warm enough for me to get out there and get it done. But I sure am over spraying fuel in the cylinders with a bug sprayer to start it. Ill keep everybody posted

  14. #11
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    Good points and I have verified that it is getting good spark

  15. #12
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    Yes I used cdi parts. I have used original equipment parts but dont trust them anymore. The used parts are 35 years old and the new ones seem to have been setting on someones shelf for many years so Im sticking with the cdi parts. they seem to make a good product.

  16. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbeuro View Post
    Yes I used cdi parts. I have used original equipment parts but dont trust them anymore. The used parts are 35 years old and the new ones seem to have been setting on someones shelf for many years so Im sticking with the cdi parts. they seem to make a good product.
    Maybe just the skeptic in me but I saw someone's post today (20 hours ago if you search for it posted by Adam James) on the scream and fly facebook groups about inferior Sierra parts being made in china vs their regular Germany stamped parts. Depending on when you bought CDI may be doing the same due to the shortage and shipping woes their hands have been tied on having to resort to selling the same inferior junk. Someone else made a comment on the CDI electronics failing more often too.

    Aside from my conspiracy theory above do you get hard cold starts on the muffs too or just when out on the water?

  17. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer View Post
    A 1983 would not have chokes in the carbs they have a primer valve that injects fuel behind the butterflies. This valve is mounted on the starboard side of carbs. You start by giving it a bit of throttle, make sure primer bulb is hard and then crank while holding key in (operates primer valve) and when it starts leave held in for a couple seconds. If you had choke plates you might want to post a photo.
    Yes sir!!! Or if you are like me and run an electric pump... One or two bumps with the key usually does it! My late 2.6 GT is plumbed into the intake. My '80 235 2.6 is plumbed into all six bypass covers. Either way worked fine.

  18. #15
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    Just to close this thread out . I couldnt fix it . I ended up grtting a powerhead a few years later with the primer solenoid and the problem is gone . Those choke flaps on the lower 2 carbs just do not work very well. So glad I upgraded

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