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  1. #1
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    Question 2006 Mercury 250 ProXS and the Sodium Chloride Water

    Hello All,

    Long time reader, greenhorn poster, I apologize if I'm in the wrong building.

    I'm in the market for a 225 or 250 ProXS, and recently found one that's somewhat friendly to my pocketbook, it's an '06, comes with controls, couple gauges etc. The current owner has used the boat quite regularly in saltwater, and freshwater for about the last year. I'm not experienced whatsoever with saltwater use/applications, but I have this small sense of doubt/anxiety with purchasing this motor, but it could be completely nonsense on my part, again, zero experience with saltwater and outboards.

    In y'all's opinion, should I keep looking, or is saltwater use not as brutal on outboards as what I'm possibly making them seem to be in my head?

    Thanks for any help, and or advice you can share.

    Respectfully,
    Nitro

  2. #2
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    Depends on condition, maintenance and price
    It's a reason shop charges almost double to work on saltwater motors

  3. #3
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    It’s not easy to hide the effects of saltwater on a motor. Take a look and see if it’s all white and fuzzy
    Hydrostream dreamin

  4. #4
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    if the unit has been maintained and has good compression let er eat! also if you can check air and fuel pressure and make sure compressor is good.

  5. #5
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    It has 680 hrs
    $4500
    Has title
    New water pump
    Plugs
    A couple of other minor things replaced.

    That's where I'm at at this point, the motor is a 4.5 hour drive from here.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20211027_151448.jpg   20211027_151511.jpg   received_314646080018358.jpeg   received_386175436512257.jpeg   received_572072290539783.jpeg  


  6. #6
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    Additionally, I've grown up working on outboards, nothing even close to this new, and absolutely nothing this size. While researching the saltwater questions I have (same ones that I posted here), someone mentioned a list of parts commonly replaced because of the saltwater exposure, one part listed was a/the manifold. My first thought was "extremely daunting major teardown/reassemble" task. But the person who said it made it sound like it's as easy, and commonly done as replacing a "fuel filter" for example. He didn't say the fuel filter part, just made it sound like the manifold replacement wasn't a big deal whatsoever. Would it be the intake manifold, or exhaust manifold, or is there another manifold?

  7. #7
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    Additionally Additionally, part of me thinks it's a no brainer because of the price the seller accepted, meaning "it's too good of a deal to pass up." BUT, the little voice on my other shoulder is saying "It's too good of a deal to be true, there's something about it that's resulted in replacing it, as well as how little the seller's taking for it."

    Is there any logic in that thinking, in your opinion?

  8. #8
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    Question, the motor currently on my boat, is a 2003 Mercury EFI, 5 cylinders have 115 PSI, and 1 cylinder is at 90 PSI. I was told the cylinder at 90 PSI had a scored cylinder wall. Is that something that needs a new powerhead. Did these motors by chance come from the factory with sleeves? If not, is it worth it to have the cylinder bored, sleeved to OEM displacement, and rings in it?

    Thank you for your time,
    Nitro

  9. #9
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    Bump

    Just don't want to drop $5K on a motor if it's something considered doable by the majority, or do I just need to pull the trigger, and spend the $5K?

  10. #10
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    is it already off the boat? everyone will have different GO/NO GO checklist. with me, its compression, hours, check lower unit oil then just give it a good once over.

  11. #11
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    My other option is, if 1 cylinder is scored, resulting in 90 PSI, when the other 5 are at 115 PSI, is it more cost effective to have the 1 cylinder bored, sleeved, and new piston and rings?

  12. #12
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    Nitro is right do a visual An check for overheat on history DDT if so headbolts could be a big issue

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