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Thread: 280 little help please??
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10-20-2021, 06:17 AM #16000 RPM
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280 little help please??
For some time I have had a problem with #6 faulting. On my DDT it always shows up as #6. Doing a running and static test all components are fine. I have switched coils (including spark plug, and spark plug wire) to another cylinder but miss and fault still shows up on #6. Plug looks fine and doesn't fault when switched with coil. Injectors flowed 18 hours ago (problem did this before and after they were flowed)? If I run it at higher rpm it will clear itself out. Seems to happen at mid rpm level. I can replace plug and will run fine for awhile as long as I keep rpms up. I have run out of things to try. Any of you guys ran into something like this before? Thanks in advance for any ideas.
have fun be safe
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10-20-2021, 06:59 AM #25000 RPM
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Hi Bill- I had a problem with #6 - showing a fault on #6 - misfire . Thought it was plugs and switched them to what the manual stated to run - there was a change of plugs suggested to run by Mercury can't recall now - IT was Champion to NGK I think . And i can check on that for you but a search will confirm here . Thought that fixed it. No it didn't- finally found the coil was going bad and it took out the driver in the ECU . got that fixed by Simon - said he sees it often and suggested replace all coils . New coils not used coils - and check TPS setting as well as your fuel setting + or minus with the DDT - pull 1% out of it on the ddt or at a minamum see where its set - That's all I have - these motors do load up a bit idling around
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10-21-2021, 07:31 AM #36000 RPM
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That sure sounds like what I have going on. I have changed the fuel setting going 1% lean but that didn't correct the problem. I seldom idle around. I have a stock ECU that I can run to see if that corrects, but if it is a coil "going bad"?? Odd that when I switch the #6 coil with another coil on a different cylinder the fault doesn't stay with the coil out of #6 hole. I don't know to find the "going bad" coil as they all pass on DDT and switching out of #6 the miss doesn't stay with the coil. That makes a bad driver in ECU sound like a strong possibility. I might have the ECU looked at, especially if the stock ECU stops the problem (hope the "going bad coil") doesn't take out driver in my stock ECU. Thanks much for post. Much appreciated.
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10-21-2021, 07:52 AM #4
What plugs are you using. Some 280's want champions, some want NGK. Just recently a guy I know was running Champions and I mailed him my DDT to play with, nothing wrong like you have going. He swapped to NGK and the rich issue went away. Something easy to check quick before you send the ECM to be tested. It is under 100 to check, but if a driver is the issue, your looking at 650 bucks to fix it!
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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10-21-2021, 09:13 AM #5Supporting Vendor
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ALWAYS use NGK plugs in Mercury outboards BPZ8H-N-10 works on ALL my 280 builds … Might have issues with connector that comes from ECU to coil , clean and dope with dielectric grease …
Good luck,
Jay @ JSRE
Jay @ JSRE
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rjdubiel, Forkin' Crazy liked this post
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10-21-2021, 09:56 AM #66000 RPM
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Always run NGK. I was changing the ECU out and just happen to look inside female portion of wiring harness. Number six hole was missing the medal portion the harness plugs into!! Just a bare wire in there. Now I need to find a new harness #849490T4. Discontinued on Merc site. Anyone have one to sell?
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10-21-2021, 10:07 AM #71973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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10-22-2021, 06:35 AM #85000 RPM
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Sounds like your on to something - I would call Simon and see if they have that connector .
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10-23-2021, 05:09 AM #96000 RPM
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Well it looked like that was problem BUT after cutting the plug off and replacing with a new plug I did connectivity test on all the wires coming out of the female portion of yer plug. Eight holes in the plug with seven wires coming-out of it. The hole that doesn't have a wire attached to it is the one the medal sleeve is missing? Now I am back to possible driver out of ECU. Trying another ECU today??
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10-23-2021, 06:55 AM #10
That sucks. Good luck.
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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10-23-2021, 07:58 PM #115000 RPM
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If TPS is set to spec and plugs - NGK - I am checking all grounds and terminals carefully - if good and injectors clean - I'm suspecting coils or ECU . The run history is going to show some frequency of misfires and suspect with more time it's going to show .
The last ECU I bought - I sent it out - it was good but I know now it's definately a good spare . Yes it cost me a couple hundred to get tested and shipped .
New coils are pricey as well .
I am only guessing here but do you know the history of the spare ECU that you just put on . Sometimes we acquire stuff as spares with unknown history . The coil packs on these motors being around year 2000 are now 20 years old .
I would call Jay Smith on here and have a short conversation with him and follow his direction .
Then call Simon and see if they will have a short conversation as well . Both these men will have seen frequency on the above issues .
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10-24-2021, 12:03 AM #125000 RPM
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I always have ran NGK as Jay mentioned and I fought #5 & #6 faulting. Mostly #5. I had bought brand new coils & wires. Still did it. One day on this site in the parts section I bought a spare set of coils & wires (used) these had the old blue coil wires. I changed coil/ wires on #5 & #6. Boom. No more faulting. That was 4 yr ago. Still has them 2 with the blue wires & rest with the red/ grey wires never changed the rest. Every no & then if I idle long & motor tucked, it will get rich & blup a time but will clear out & run like a raped ape.
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10-24-2021, 04:44 AM #136000 RPM
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I started another post on this but I want to reply to you alls posts. The electronics are all off a 2007 complete 280 I bought new. I've had several 280 powerheads, when I was racing, but always ran 260 electronics on them. These electronics have less than 200 hours on them. All the electronics were removed and injectors flowed 25 hours ago, (problem existed before that). It misses and feels just like a fouled plug, but when I put the plug in another cylinder it doesn't miss there?? Boat runs 104mph 7500rpm 27 Hoss prop, 100 mph 8000 rpm (one ECU has no limiter) 24 Hoss prop. Good friend suggested to run in the dark to see if I see any electrical sparks. Idles fine. Really crazy thing, yesterday I put on my stock ECU (15 hours on it). Same miss around 4000 rpm?? Run more rpm and miss goes away. This time DDT reads fault in cylinder #2 and no faults in #6??WTH Before it has always been #6. Going to change coil, plug, and plug wire from #2 to another cylinder and see if fault will follow them. Sure got the best of me. Thanks everyone for your replies. I am in touch with Jay
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10-25-2021, 11:08 AM #146000 RPM
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Old ECU seems to be cause of the problem. After running new ECU again, no ignition faults!! No clue why the first time I ran it showed faults on #4. Sent it to Burcato to look at. Thanks all for your time and suggestions, very much appreciated.
have fun be safe
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10-30-2021, 07:29 AM #156000 RPM
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Well crap, Brucato doesn't work on motorola ECUs. I did find a guy on u tube that does. I sent the ECU to him to look at. In his email he told me "that if I have an injector problem, it will damage the new ECU I am running now that now has no faults". I found an old post that was somewhat like this, but the question never answered is this, how can an injector problem damage (driver etc) in the ECU. My understanding is the ECU runs the injector not the other way around?? At worst case the injector would be stuck open or closed? What am I missing? The injectors were cleaned and flowed by Brendon Powers 20 running hours ago. Problem existed before and still have after the service. Thanks in advance again for any thoughts guys