Vegas V bottom rebuild

[cameronj]

Yes, all the fibreglass layers i did were completely translucent like in the 3rd pic. It is just the second layer of pad i put down in the wet CSM vs. corebond like the first. For perspective those ghosty/cloudy area were very hot to touch as it was curing. There are no air bubbles as it was completely transparent before it started curing and ive been taking extra time with the fin roller making sure there are no air bubble or raised areas.

It does feel extremely strong(the second layer of core) Those cloudy areas did cure faster than the non cloudy areas. I did mix up to separate batches of resin for the pad but mixed the same ratio of MEKP as the first cup.

[LakeFever]

I’m no expert on this process either but it looks plenty good enough to run far as I can see. I’m not sure why it would cloud during cure I’m sure someone here knows about that. Your glass work looks really good though. Nice and tight.

[cameronj]

Thank you very much i really appreciate it especially coming from you as your build is where i got a lot of inspiration eg. bringing the core up in the front higher, materials, resin etc.

The toughest part i feel is coming which is the transom and having no outer skin to work with. I will be changing the angle of it slightly pulling the bottom out approx. an inch so it does not have such a negative wedge/angle and raising it at least 2". Im def. doing 3" of coosa with 1 1/12" knees on the outsides as well as two 1/2" knees tying into the stringers up the pad.

[LakeFever]

Same here I read a ton of build threads and followed Tnels build from day one which really helped me out a lot seeing how/when/what it all happens. I’m curious to see how you do with the infamous transom as well. I have a strong feeling it will be a little better than the last one

[cameronj]

Made some more progress over the weekend as i have the transom started now and it is finally beginning to look like a boat. Also had a bit of disappointment as the 300XS powerhead deal i had fell through as the cost went up(I didn't pay up front as it was not rebuilt yet and still is not completed.). So ended up going back with a 2003 250XS rebuilt with a DBR ecu which should still be better than my previous one that had the 5850 rev limiter. On a good note the transom looks like a monster. It is raised approx. 2 inches and the bottom is pushed out an inch which i blended up to the hull with corebond(PITA to sand.) I cut the sides of the transom on an angle so that it overlaps the sides in hopes that if it fails again it does not rip off without tearing the whole back of the boat off... I fastened the two pieces of 1 1/2" coosa together with CSM

For layup how many layers should i do of 1708(especially concerned about the outside with no skin there.) I currently did one layer of 45 degree 1708 and will rotate between 45/90 degree matt as i purchased both. Also how far should i bring the fibreglass across the back sides of the hull to ensure it does not rip off(pic 4)

[cameronj]

[XstreamVking]

I like 1/4'' on the outside skin and about the same on the inside. Overlap and taper into the corners. I know this is a lot of glass, but I have never had a trans fail. This is how I did my V-King. I added more where the bolts for the engine come thru.

[cameronj]

The stronger the better... I will go 1/4" minimum than. Approx. how many layers is 1/4"?

So for the overlap on the corners i was going to over lap 1 - 1 1/2" each layer, so in totality (i was estimating 8 layers) It would go onto the sides 8-12"

[XstreamVking]

About 6 layers of 1708 will make 1/4''

[David]

Are you going to put in knees?

[cameronj]

Yes two 1.5" knees on the outside and two 1/2" coming up from the pad (like most others do.) So 4 in total but was thinking about 1 X 1 1/2" going side to side as well between the two outer knees sitting on top of the 1/2" in the middle like the laser LTVs i believe are setup.

Xstream mentioned to build it how you intend to use it and on my lake there are lots of cruisers, wake board boats and with the two sand bars typically 100+ boats out on a weekend. I find myself catching a bit of air quite regularly and with the old transom ripping off i want to make sure it is super strong and that never happens to me again

[LakeFever]

Looks beefy! I laid my transom in overlapped in steps all the way out to the edge of the wings. Maybe a bit overkill but I was a newb and tend to the more is better philosophy with most things I build. I have 3/8 glass on both sides over the entire coosa core and as mentioned it tapers as it steps down out towards the wings. I believe I posted pics in my build thread if your curious

[XstreamVking]

I posted that pic to also show an alternative to the knees being in the center. As shown, mine are on the outer edges of the trans core. Also have platforms for battery and oil tank. Doing it in this manner allows much easier rigging of the fuel tank. The center knee/stringer design most use makes the fuel tank placement a bit more tricky. My 28 gal tank sits against the trans on the floor and is completely under the rear deck. Never seen another design like mine. But, it works well and is more compatible with a stern mounted tank.

[cameronj]

Thank you for all the responses i will be doing the oil tank and battery tray holder as well as it looks nice and clean.

I have started the knees and stringers just got the rear bit core bonded in and will continue towards the front today. It is so much more solid now than when i started i can walk inside the boat and there is no hull flex etc. feeling more confident by the day

[LakeFever]

That’s looking really good!