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  1. #16
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    You guys have convinced me as far as troubleshooting the electrics. But just to clarify, you can replace these external trim modules with the later ones that were integrated into the mounting bracket?
    Last edited by Gilera; 09-18-2021 at 05:49 AM.

  2. #17
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    The ignitions from the later loop charged v6/v8 motors are the ones that require the extra cranking rpm, I can start my cold 50hp omc with good push on flywheel and have started many 3 and a few v4s though they were warmed up and ready to go. looking at the motor in the pic on my computer now, It looks older... probably a 75/76, It has the early lower mounts on the mid section which makes it for the most part not worth it for a trim upgrade since most everything with the mount bracket is different than the 77 and newer motors. Trim wires .. black to negative then blue is up and green is down

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  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by H2OPERF View Post
    looking at the motor in the pic on my computer now, It looks older... probably a 75/76, It has the early lower mounts on the mid section which makes it for the most part not worth it for a trim upgrade since most everything with the mount bracket is different than the 77 and newer motors. Trim wires .. black to negative then blue is up and green is down
    Mate you are spot on. I got the serial number and it is indeed a 1975 model. I thought the decals were from a later model or maybe not the original cowl. So if powerhead bolt pattern is different and mount bracket has little in common with later models then it seems like it wouldn't even be a great parts motor for a later model. Was getting my hopes up there but am back to thinking i'll have real issues if the trim/tilt setup has issues.

  5. #19
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    Semi-related question. Is the angle on various years/versions of trim and tilt any different when tilted fully up? I want to be able to leave my boat (when I get one) in the water for a few days at a time and want to make sure the motor will clear the water when in the fully upright position. It will be a runabout style fishing boat, not a bum heavy ski boat.

  6. #20
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    what setup would be needed to convert these to digital ignition? not sure exactly what needs to be done or what parts are needed, but i'm interested in learning more!

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revenge22 View Post
    what setup would be needed to convert these to digital ignition? not sure exactly what needs to be done or what parts are needed, but i'm interested in learning more!
    You can do just the power pack and timing base and use the stock stator need to modify the stator need to remove the power coil from it.. real easy.. needs to be removed because the digital ignition uses the battery for the power for spark so the coil on the stator isnt used.
    But if its all old i would just replace everything if you shop around and look for kits the prices are much better..
    I would say ive never had much of a problem with stock or the CDI or CDI DIGITAL stuff Expect when i used both on the on the same motor, could be coincidence or..? Who knows.
    But thats another reason id replace all but like i said i dont know if itwas coincidence or not...it was only on a couple motors and they had problems before so.... Why i was working on them..
    Theres just something about it all being new too...
    Worth the money if the motors in great shape comp lower unit etc.... like having s new motor
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor
    Twin v6 closed deck Evinrude loopers Ported,2.7 heads,cooling mods
    milled finger ported to match vertex pistons,
    All casting slag removed
    Sleeves in opposite so no idle reliefs
    Offshore exhaust mids
    152 psi comp,balanced pistons and rods,Stuffed, 106 pullovers
    CDI 8500 digital ignitions ..Boyesen reeds..And more..

  8. #22
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    Just curious but what is a motor like that worth over there, and are used motors in general not that plentiful ?
    Last edited by H2OPERF; 09-23-2021 at 08:11 AM.

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by H2OPERF View Post
    Just curious but what is a motor like that worth over there, and are used motors in general not that plentiful ?
    Over here the used outboard market and used boat market is pretty strong and I think the numbers available would be partly the reason. You'd be amazed at the mentality of a lot of people. Apparently you can have a 40 year old boat that needs all the stringers and transom replaced and a motor thats been neglected its whole life with unknown hours and isn't running on a rusty trailer all unregistered and still expect to get good money for it.

    Over here most motors have been in saltwater their whole lives. A typical 30 - 40 year old motor is not in good shape and would take more effort to get in a usable state than its worth. The V4 OMC motors are probably more plentiful than Mercs from the same era. A well used V4 in running but average condition will get $2 - $2.5k minimum. When I see people advertising used motors in excellent condition over in the US where they've had the electrics replaced, fully serviced, good compression and mostly freshwater use for under $2k (even considering exchange rate) I almost think it would be worth shipping one over! Seriously though i'm sure with newer high hp motors it could be worth it. Here if you want to do a compression test on a motor under $1k you won't even get a response. That's why I have been considering this motor carefully. Not so much to save a couple of $, but because its hard to find them not corroded out and beaten up.

    Here's an example. What do you reckon this would fetch in the US considering unknown hours or compression readings? Obviously have to factor in exchange rate ($3250aud = $2370usd currently).

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/22373585...em-u%253A34130

    Saying that, I'm sure there are countries where it is much tougher again.
    Last edited by Gilera; 09-23-2021 at 04:58 PM.

  10. #24
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    The coastal states would be just like you guys and the condition goes down fast from the salt, I'm not sure how it is everywhere in the US but where i am many shops will not even work on older motors anymore. The motor in the ad would not be worth anywhere near that in South FL and the motor you are looking at you could probably find for $500 or even at the scrap yard and buy it for scrap metal prices, sorry lol.. now in the center of the country where there are big lakes and a pretty long winter you may find the same motor that has been in a barn most of its life with zero corrosion and it can bring decent money to be used as a runner or for some one restoring an older rig. I have been buying all my parts from great lakes area and norther US from ebay and its amazing what the stuff looks like, I mean near new 30 year old gear case housings. If it says FL i move on, LOL.

  11. #25
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    hey meant to say thanks for the info... i do see the "digital" CDI kits... but the confusing part for me is its still a mechanical timer base... so what changed to "digital" in the system? the pack looks the same as for my 93' v6 looper. can you adapt the looper kit to fit a v4/6 crossflow? if you take out the power coil, how does the battery get charging current? sorry a bit slow on the uptake here...

  12. #26
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    I finally had an excuse to get over the border and inspect this motor. It looks quite clean but may have had a coat of paint at some point. there was some corrosion under the paintwork in a few spots but pretty damn clean for a 45 year old motor! The only thing that seemed to be missing was the cover around the top of the midsection that covers the gap around the powerhead.

    I planned on testing whether the trim/tilt worked and took a battery but was confused to find that the three wires were red, green and brown. All references to the wires I have found said they were black, blue and green as was stated in an earlier post - black to negative then blue is up and green is down. Does anyone know if these colours existed from factory? If not I guess someone has rewired wired it.

    I didn't want to connect any 2 wires to the battery in case I was shorting something out.

    The motor also has a very new looking control box. Apparently original one was seized and the previous owner bought the control box from the states but never fitted it. It is grey plastic and has BRP log on side of lever. I wanted to check that it would be compatible with this old motor and I found that you need a wiring harness adaptor part no 0768411.

    I went looking for this part and found that the adaptor is over $300USD which is more that than the new control box!! Amazon.com: Johnson/Evinrude/OMC New OEM Control Adaptor Wire Harness Cable 0768411; 768411 : Automotive

    Anyone had any experience here? Perhaps I would be better off finding an original control box in decent condition.

    I was almost thinking that if the motor did end up a dud then I could recoup some of my money by reselling the control box as they seem to be worth a couple of hundred. It also has a SS prop a little dinged up but still useable. Still quite tempted.

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