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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stoker boy View Post
    I don’t have a squeeze ball. If you can find the problem in the driveway that would be great. I understand you don’t wanna spend the money. If you can plumbing a mechanical gauge temporary with a long fuel line up to the driver seat you can do it that way its not the recommended or safe way to do it but if you’re in a pinch.
    do i need one? squeeze ball that is

  2. #32
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    speaking of squeeze balls- hooked up gauge at fuel rail intake- held at 80 lbs,,,,, hooked gauge up at regulator intake- held at 80lbs.... hooked up gauge at vst intake and pumped ball to 25lbs and dropped like a rock to 0 in 4min 50sec.......pumped ball to 25lbs and disconnected fuel line entry thing and held at 25lbs....will replace squeeze ball and keep fingers crossed

  3. #33
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    I’m thinking if you have an EFI motor and a return line why would you need a Ball?

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stoker boy View Post
    I’m thinking if you have an EFI motor and a return line why would you need a Ball?
    so itll work just running straight from the onboard fuel filter to the motor,will fuel still be immediatly available at the low press pump when starting?

  5. #35
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    The pump runs fuel through the fuel rail back through the return line to the fuel tank. At this point I’m not 100% sure what type of engine set up you’re running. My main point is that when your boats on the lake and it starts acting up it’s important to make sure your fuel pressure stays consistent that way you can eliminate or confirm a fuel supply issue.
    Last edited by Stoker boy; 07-30-2021 at 09:40 PM.

  6. #36
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    well, installed an elec fuel press gauge and fuel press is a consistant 37-38lbs with no drop anywhere from 0 to wfo, but the dropping of rpms at 6000 to 5700 still exists and when it does it i did notice volts shoot from 13.5 to 16v, dont know if it wouldve continued to climb cuz i got off it and it dropped back to 13. are my voltage regs doin this?

  7. #37
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    16 is too much for that ECU. Verify with brucato, but I know a merc ECU doesn't like 16v!

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by rprinzo View Post
    well, installed an elec fuel press gauge and fuel press is a consistant 37-38lbs with no drop anywhere from 0 to wfo, but the dropping of rpms at 6000 to 5700 still exists and when it does it i did notice volts shoot from 13.5 to 16v, dont know if it wouldve continued to climb cuz i got off it and it dropped back to 13. are my voltage regs doin this?
    i had the exact problem like you on one of my pro max,s
    2 high performance dealers could not figure it out thought it was a fuel problem.
    i always thought it was an electrical problem but with the flywheel
    except for one of the cast flywheels al parts are on both engines behind the current boat
    i did find on one of the flywheels a somewhat strange trigger signal i suspected as the cuase but can,t know forsure
    something like Sainsmart is very handy

    https://www.amazon.nl/SainSmart-Hand...8677531&sr=8-2


    Last edited by PanRonnie; 08-11-2021 at 05:50 AM.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by rprinzo View Post
    well, installed an elec fuel press gauge and fuel press is a consistant 37-38lbs with no drop anywhere from 0 to wfo, but the dropping of rpms at 6000 to 5700 still exists and when it does it i did notice volts shoot from 13.5 to 16v, dont know if it wouldve continued to climb cuz i got off it and it dropped back to 13. are my voltage regs doin this?
    Now you have verified your fuel system is operating properly. I have seen low-voltage make the ECU go crazy and loose RPM but never high-voltage. I’m not familiar with your ECU but I would check with the manufacturer that seems too high of voltage. Slightly over 13 is the highest I’ve ever seen my voltage. That’s why gauges are so important, when there’s a problem they can help with your troubleshooting. You are correct, I would start with something simple like the voltage regulator.
    Last edited by Stoker boy; 08-11-2021 at 08:01 AM.

  10. #40
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    BTW does not mean your not on to something!
    Attached Files Attached Files

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by PanRonnie View Post
    i had the exact problem like you on one of my pro max,s
    2 high performance dealers could not figure it out thought it was a fuel problem.
    i always thought it was an electrical problem but with the flywheel
    except for one of the cast flywheels al parts are on both engines behind the current boat
    i did find on one of the flywheels a somewhat strange trigger signal i suspected as the cuase but can,t know forsure
    something like Sainsmart is very handy

    https://www.amazon.nl/SainSmart-Hand...8677531&sr=8-2


    so the one on the left is the motor with the bad flywheel? did replacing the flywheel get rid of the problem? do you have vid of both motors running well?

  12. #42
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    unfortunatly i don,t know yet, the fustration was one of the reasons i started installing DTA and Megasquirt ECU,s opening myself up to other problems
    i build my engines back to stock last year as i could now run 2 engines behind the boat and offcourse then i toasted a piston with the amazing injectors from fiveO motersports
    and with the crap weahter here i was only able to put a first tank of fuel on the engine so still in break in sort of
    i hope to get out this sunday but don,t know if i will get it up to 6000
    both engines are datalogged with Lamda and EGT so something strange should pop up in the logs
    i will keep an eye out for the voltage going up like you described
    i did have an unstable tach reading bounsing on my port engine , i replugged to the other voltage regulator to see if the signal gets better maybe an indication of a bad regulator
    my pumps are all bosch 044 so that should be no problem
    i attached the manual for the engine incase you don,t have it
    there are some regulator tests in it you can do but fudge those things are expensive !
    so i hope i fixed it but don,t know forsure
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails MODELS 135-150-175-200-225 1992 and Newer � 135-150-150- XR6-150 Magnum III-150 EFI-175-1.pdf  

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  14. #43
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    Get rid of that blue fuel line it has a liner in it that collapses and causes fuel restrictions
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


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  16. #44
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    In the past I notice if a rectifier goes out your tack goes crazy or does not work and your charging system does not work. A couple of us guys use aftermarket rectifiers they cost a couple dollars (literally) and are way better than mercury‘s. We are using them on drag motors and 260s we only have 16 amp charging system so I guess the research on part numbers would determine whether they will work on a different Merc.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 76191A5B-F4F2-46E1-AEAD-4C9681547974.png  
    Last edited by Stoker boy; 08-12-2021 at 11:53 AM.

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  18. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by baja200merk View Post
    Get rid of that blue fuel line it has a liner in it that collapses and causes fuel restrictions
    thats top of the line racing fuel line, no liner

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