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  1. #16
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    Throttle position test harness? Hmm never heard of it. Will look into
    Hydrostream dreamin

  2. #17
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    Heres the block exhaust dump, plate, and gasket part number I was running. I bought the new gaskets when I installed the solid mounts. Looks to me like I can safely open up this area to this gasket size correct?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hydrostream dreamin

  3. #18
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    Got the tear down complete. Lots to see

    Pulled off the front half and right away I saw a smoking gun. You can see the heat scoring on the worm gear, this was not spinning, much... if at all. Probably what took the motor out?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Heres the piston and cylinder from #2 hole which happens to be the hole the oil drive is in. Im thinking this hole may need a fresh sleeve, that looks like a lot of damage Im worried about distortion and heat transfer problems if I bore it. Again Im ALLLLLLLL eyes to what any of you guys have to say about this
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Heres piston #5 which is scuffed but im thinking this hole can be safely bored yes?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The other four holes all look really dang good. Still plenty of cross hatch and the pistons are excellent, just like this one
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Heres a pic of the rod slot areas from the intake and cylinder perspective. Looks like an easy win to mod this for more flow.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  5. #19
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    [QUOTE=LakeFever;3297436]Heres the block exhaust dump, plate, and gasket part number I was running. I bought the new gaskets when I installed the solid mounts. Looks to me like I can safely open up this area to this gasket size correct?

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	490767[/QUOTE
    Some may stroke out from this, but yes you can as long as you use the metal infused race gasket, which I think is the one you have in the pro marine bag. If it’s not, we’ll need to look it up.It’s a lot of of work but helps even with the smaller front and somewhat agressive porting. Once you get your block cut, I bolt the plate to block and match the plate to the block, keeping the port size true and symmetrical until it reaches the point to where the port opens up larger in the plate (about half way down) then nicely blend it. IMO the 4 petal is better than the 5, they are the same size with 5 smaller holes, while the 4’s have 4 larger openings and flow a little better. They will support your rpm range just fine and will have a little better low end/ mid range than the larger 7 petal front.

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  7. #20
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    I looked close and can’t see any reason at all I can’t open that area up to that size because it looks like casting only in both the bottom of the block dump area and the plate. I took some calipers and the plate opens up to the same size as the base gasket by the bottom of the plate so it’s a taper that can be straightened out to open up power potential.

    Anyone have anything to say about that bad hole? Re-sleeve or safe to bore?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  8. #21
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    It’s hard to tell about cyl. Make sure the sleeve hasn’t shifted/ Rotated. If it has and ya got heat it to straighten, change it. If not, bore it and see if it clears up. Also while seein the pump bushing brought to mind. Being your filling your oil pump void, you need to drive that bushing out, because your not gonna have the pump delete rod in there to hold it in place and prevent it from falling out. Then while your filling the void, fill and smooth the bushing hole in cylinder floor. I got a handful of motas with the ports opened up with no problems. Found it actually helped the bottom end on the warmed over engines, saw more improvements there than on the top side compared to stock small square port.

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  10. #22
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    The sleeves still lined up where it’s supposed to be so maybe I’ll try boring it and see how it goes. Thanks for the tips on filling the void and bushing removal I will do that. I agree re the porting we had great success eons ago porting sled motors and piping them. Made more power through the range not just up top. I’m working on venting the exhaust as well so that should help down low. When I get to the rod slots I’ll start with one and post a pic as well as the dump and plate
    Hydrostream dreamin

  11. #23
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Found some pics on my phone of one of the plates and blocks I opened up. Also a pic of the bushing hole filled and smoothed out

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  13. #24
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    Forbes you are the man! I’d say that’s at least a 25% volume increase by doing this. What type of cutter do you prefer for this stuff? I have 50 or so carbide burrs but I don’t think I have any wide tooth aluminum specific ones. Paper rolls and flap disks I have lots
    Hydrostream dreamin

  14. #25
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    I have an assortment of aluminum cutting burrs I use in different lengths and shapes to get in all the nooks and crannies. It’s a lot of cuttin so you want a bit that cuts good and stays clean. Get ya plain inside adjustable caliper to heel running through the passage at all different angles to keep it nice and straight as ya work it.

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  16. #26
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    Time to add some more burrs to the kit. I have plenty of calipers and measuring devices im good there and I’ll be careful
    with the symmetry. Thanks again
    Hydrostream dreamin

  17. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    I read a ton of threads last night about the 4 petal reeds and it seems they are decent for my purpose so I think I’m going to run them. The 8000rpm target is not set in stone but I definitely want to go over 7000 so that’s the range 7-8000 rpm type thing. Will the 4 petal support that? What exactly is top pinning pistons? Any pics to show the difference I searched and came up with nada
    There are guys turning stock 200 blocks with those cages over 10 grand. The 4 petal cages and laser injection will run
    Erik Kiser

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  19. #28
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    Studied the block and all the pics I could find today. Feeling more unsure now about what to do than before I did lol. Anyways from what i gather the trick is to ball mill the slots open to the sidewalls so to speak but no deeper. Shave the divider down quite a bit ( I didnt see any measurements posted ) and open up the dump. When it comes to opening up the block exit it seems to me the way to go about this is to angle in from the bottom exhaust ports max height and NOT grind the port exit down lower because all the exit ports should be the same distance. Make sense?

    Also regarding smoothing of the block the ridges in the ports are lipped like a wave and surely do a job. Not sure I want to wipe those flat. Again goals are to get somewhere in the 7-8000 range and mostly run lake cruise all day not looking to go hog wild just wind it up some. The last pic is the mounting plate from a 260 cover i have. Looks just like the gasket size. You can see the block and ports through it im thinking to grind down from the height of the exhaust port tapering down to this size opening. Is this the way?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by LakeFever; 07-25-2021 at 02:29 PM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  20. #29
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    No need to buy a test harness. Just back probe blue & brown wire with V meter. Make sure you set your meter to the correct range & that you disconnect head temp sensor. Otherwise you’ll read all kinds of weird on the meter. If you don’t have pins to back probe then strip two small pieces of wire & stick one side of both wires into plug then connect the TPS with other side of striped wire hanging outside of plug. Book says set @ .26v
    X-Stream Vegas

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  22. #30
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    Had a little time today to attack some of this. Only had an hour, got these roughed in

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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