Removed idle stabilizer, now top end 300 rpm lower. 1986 v135 2.0L

[sizzler]

Back story: had installed 2 new switchboxes and used them maybe 12-15 hours total before flaming out suddenly last week while cruising. Because they were new, didn't think they were the most likely culprit...but because they were $47 for the pair, and on this forum there are regular admonitions to not use the cheap switchboxes, it turned out that they'd gone bad. Before replacing them (with the old ones), I'd removed the idle stabilizer thinking maybe that was the culprit, and fiddled with the timing screw in the middle of the throttle arm mechanism.

So it worked a little better after doing that, but wouldn't get up and go when I'd get past the 5 mph sign. After that is when I put the old switch boxes back on, and that cured the problem. Except when I go to wot it only goes to 4900 rpms. It used to top out at 5200. (On the first trip of the year it did 5500 rpm, sounded great, and I thought some great fortune had befallen me...but never again since.) I advanced timing this morning by backing off that middle screw a half turn, then whole turn, and back to half turn only again. That got me to 5000 and motor felt smooth through the entire range.

Did the idle stabilizer box have something to do with higher revs at wot?

Is adjusting the timing further apt to help? hurt?

It is a hot and humid day - in the 90s ... does that impact max rpm?

Thanks

[XstreamVking]

Without a timing light and getting the timing correct, you may hurt the engine.

[H2Okie]

Back story: had installed 2 new switchboxes and used them maybe 12-15 hours total before flaming out suddenly last week while cruising. Because they were new, didn't think they were the most likely culprit...but because they were $47 for the pair, and on this forum there are regular admonitions to not use the cheap switchboxes, it turned out that they'd gone bad. Before replacing them (with the old ones), I'd removed the idle stabilizer thinking maybe that was the culprit, and fiddled with the timing screw in the middle of the throttle arm mechanism.

So it worked a little better after doing that, but wouldn't get up and go when I'd get past the 5 mph sign. After that is when I put the old switch boxes back on, and that cured the problem. Except when I go to wot it only goes to 4900 rpms. It used to top out at 5200. (On the first trip of the year it did 5500 rpm, sounded great, and I thought some great fortune had befallen me...but never again since.) I advanced timing this morning by backing off that middle screw a half turn, then whole turn, and back to half turn only again. That got me to 5000 and motor felt smooth through the entire range.

Did the idle stabilizer box have something to do with higher revs at wot?

Is adjusting the timing further apt to help? hurt?

It is a hot and humid day - in the 90s ... does that impact max rpm?

Thanks

IF you scroll down at the bottom of this thread you will find a box labeled "Similar "threads . Read through thru those posts and or do a "search" on removing idle stabilizer and you will find your answer

[Dave Strong]

Some idle stabilizers also had a high speed advance. Is there a part number on box? Also need to do a complete link and sync to get timing correct.

Dave

[johnboy 88 vegas]

Like everyone else said check the timing after removing the box....it's mandatory. Hook up a timing light when you back down the boat ramp and run it wot (obviously in forward gear) on the trailer while checking the timing for a second...23-25 is where you want to be. Might want to make sure you dont have any carb issues as well

[Whaaaaat]

Like everyone else said check the timing after removing the box....it's mandatory. Hook up a timing light when you back down the boat ramp and run it wot (obviously in forward gear) on the trailer while checking the timing for a second...23-25 is where you want to be. Might want to make sure you dont have any carb issues as well

Why would you run it wot stuck on the trailer, without a test prop? Completely unnecessary. Just idle speed on the hose in neutral with the advance held to the stop. No need to stand in the water next to a spinning prop, or hang over the back of the boat over a spinning prop, while trying to dial in the timing stop screw.

[johnboy 88 vegas]

Why would you run it wot stuck on the trailer, without a test prop? Completely unnecessary. Just idle speed on the hose in neutral with the advance held to the stop. No need to stand in the water next to a spinning prop, or hang over the back of the boat over a spinning prop, while trying to dial in the timing stop screw.

You really think I'm gonna stand next to a prop in the water? I like testing at wot you do as you wish on your end. I take it you've never had to ride down the river pulling off plug wires to find the skipping cylinder either?....I take it your not an outboard mechanic

[Whaaaaat]

You really think I'm gonna stand next to a prop in the water? I like testing at wot you do as you wish on your end. I take it you've never had to ride down the river pulling off plug wires to find the skipping cylinder either?....I take it your not an outboard mechanic

Without a proper test prop, your lugging the engine as you'll never reach full rpm. Wot with a lugging engine won't give you any more accurate timing than standing in your driveway at idle. Please show me in the merc manual where your method is laid out.

[johnboy 88 vegas]

I'm not even arguing at this point...if you don't get it I'm not explaining again. Btw keep reading your Merc manual it will teach you every trick in the book...lol!

[Whaaaaat]

I'm not even arguing at this point...if you don't get it I'm not explaining again. Btw keep reading your Merc manual it will teach you every trick in the book...lol!

What do you mean argue? You never explained your reasoning in the first place. You have do do that before you can explain "again". Good luck with your method. Don't slip.

[johnboy 88 vegas]

Let me guess your a certified youtube mechanic judging by your previous posts. If you don't know what your doing then just keep your opinions to yourself. I'm not ruining this man's thread anymore with you...done

[Dave Strong]

You 2 need to take your grade school BS and go somewhere else.

Dave

[johnboy 88 vegas]

You just have to put in your 2 cents that aint worth nothing to start some s***....good job dude really appreciate it

[bullet123]

drain gas out of carbs. crank motor and hold throttle arm at WOT. set timing no higher than 23

[bullet123]

Ive never set wot timing while running. Beats me.