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  1. #1
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    Looking for feedback on my plan of attack to reglass my transom/stringer/floor

    Okay guys.... I've been doing a lot of reading and absorbing information like an already waterlogged sponge (aka sorta, lol), and I know some people here have a TON of experience, so here is my current plans for my build:

    Top Level View: Transom/Stringer; Laminating 2 layers of 3/4" Coosa Bluewater 26, Floor; 1/2" nidacore. I'm going to be using polyester resins due to cost and I'm comfortable using them.... I could move to epoxy but I don't really see the point. If this was a boat that sat outside or sat in the water, I would do epoxy, but this will be out of the water/weather most of the time.

    Transom: Finish cleaning up the inside of the hull, use a flappy disc on a grinder to get the inner surface of the transom really rough. Plan is to mix up a batch of resin, add cabosil/chopped glass to make a peanut butter texture, apply to back of 3/4 coosa transom, which will be predrilled in a few areas. This will allow me to use bolts to cinch the transom against the inside of the hull; I'll use a 2x4 or something to spread the load so it's compressing evenly. Once that cures, I was going to repeat the process with another 3/4" layer. Then I will add knee braces that will go down into the bilge and adhere them to the vertical sides of the tunnels. Once that all cures I will add radii to everything, and glass in the transom using a layer of chopped strand mat, then a layer of cloth (not sure what weight yet?) and maybe tabs of woven roving? Unclear how to finish this up. Also unclear on how to handle the drain holes; the original drain holes had to be cut out when I removed the rotten transom, they were pressed in brass sleeves.


    Stringer: Plan is to use the 3/4" coosa to laminate a 1.5" thick stringer, staggering the joints (4 pieces total). This will be glued into the transom using resin/cabosil/chopped glass mix, and filleted into the hull.

    Floor: Leaning towards a polyetheylene honeycomb/non woven panel like Nidacore/Carboncore. Rollout resin on the non woven fabric, then lay out a giant piece of 1708, wet it out, let it cure, then trim the edges. This cured side with the 1708 will face the stringer. Will then do another mix of resin, thickend w cabosil but a bit thinner consistency, spread all over the tops of the tunnels, and place the nidacore panels in it, dry on top, stacked with 3/4 plywood to distribute weight, then throw anything I can find in the hull to press the panel against the hull until it cures. Remove the weight, remove the 3/4 plywood sheets, and glass the entire panel into the hull with a giant piece of 1708. Then do 6" 1708 tape to tab it into the hull, then a layer of cloth (unsure what weight?), and then another layer of the 6" tape.

    Does it seem like I'm going the right direction here? Overbuilt? Underbuilt? Appreciate the expertise on this forum that I don't have!

    Cheers!
    Last edited by ADDvanced; 06-23-2021 at 11:03 AM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADDvanced View Post
    Okay guys.... I've been doing a lot of reading and absorbing information like an already waterlogged sponge (aka sorta, lol), and I know some people here have a TON of experience, so here is my current plans for my build:

    Top Level View: Transom/Stringer; Laminating 2 layers of 3/4" Coosa Bluewater 26, Floor; 1/2" nidacore. I'm going to be using polyester resins due to cost and I'm comfortable using them.... I could move to epoxy but I don't really see the point. If this was a boat that sat outside or sat in the water, I would do epoxy, but this will be out of the water/weather most of the time.

    Transom: Finish cleaning up the inside of the hull, use a flappy disc on a grinder to get the inner surface of the transom really rough. Plan is to mix up a batch of resin, add cabosil/chopped glass to make a peanut butter texture, apply to back of 3/4 coosa transom, which will be predrilled in a few areas. This will allow me to use bolts to cinch the transom against the inside of the hull; I'll use a 2x4 or something to spread the load so it's compressing evenly. Once that cures, I was going to repeat the process with another 3/4" layer. Then I will add knee braces that will go down into the bilge and adhere them to the vertical sides of the tunnels. Once that all cures I will add radii to everything, and glass in the transom using a layer of chopped strand mat, then a layer of cloth (not sure what weight yet?) and maybe tabs of woven roving? Unclear how to finish this up. Also unclear on how to handle the drain holes; the original drain holes had to be cut out when I removed the rotten transom, they were pressed in brass sleeves.


    Stringer: Plan is to use the 3/4" coosa to laminate a 1.5" thick stringer, staggering the joints (4 pieces total). This will be glued into the transom using resin/cabosil/chopped glass mix, and filleted into the hull.

    Floor: Leaning towards a polyetheylene honeycomb/non woven panel like Nidacore/Carboncore. Rollout resin on the non woven fabric, then lay out a giant piece of 1708, wet it out, let it cure, then trim the edges. This cured side with the 1708 will face the stringer. Will then do another mix of resin, thickend w cabosil but a bit thinner consistency, spread all over the tops of the tunnels, and place the nidacore panels in it, dry on top, stacked with 3/4 plywood to distribute weight, then throw anything I can find in the hull to press the panel against the hull until it cures. Remove the weight, remove the 3/4 plywood sheets, and glass the entire panel into the hull with a giant piece of 1708. Then do 6" 1708 tape to tab it into the hull, then a layer of cloth (unsure what weight?), and then another layer of the 6" tape.

    Does it seem like I'm going the right direction here? Overbuilt? Underbuilt? Appreciate the expertise on this forum that I don't have!

    Cheers!

    just a small note, make the jump to vinylester over poly its bonds much better to old poly than poly on poly.
    and have a go at vacuum bagging down stuff you laminate.

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  4. #3
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    I'll look into it, I've never done vaccuum bagging before so that would be an all new process for me.

    How does the rest of the plan look?

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADDvanced View Post
    I'll look into it, I've never done vaccuum bagging before so that would be an all new process for me.

    How does the rest of the plan look?
    The only thing i see is the stringers will be very strong and very stiff, will they meet the floor?
    Is the original hull laminate ok with this edge loading, hard to know?
    I am one to add more weaker stringers to spread the load assuming its not a 40' offshore racer where you need longitudinal strength.
    I forgot what you are rebuilding does it have a plank? Thats the part to make stiff and strong.
    Last edited by powerabout; 06-24-2021 at 09:10 PM.

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  7. #5
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    It's a 20' SST, with only one central stringer. The floor was originally fastened to the stringer with screws and resin. The floor will rest on the tunnels, and kiss off the main stringer. Idk what a plank is.

  8. #6
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    My 84 and 85 SST true race boats 600 bare and 400, had no stringer in the center just two 1/2 " along inside center tunnel with all 1/2 knee braces, this is not house construction thicker is not BETTER

    I flipped that 400lb boat hitting transom first upside down with just a split near the bow from air/water pressure, when I swam up from about 8 ft under water the nose of the boat was above water quickly sinking from the split letting the air out.
    Was told the whole boat went under then popped up again then sank.

    The boat flexed near the same time my buds boat flipped was all balsa core it shattered like glass.
    We have invented the world WE see

    The further a society drifts from the truth, the more it will hate those that speak it.

  9. #7
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    Have to use Vinyl Ester
    We have invented the world WE see

    The further a society drifts from the truth, the more it will hate those that speak it.

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADDvanced View Post
    It's a 20' SST, with only one central stringer. The floor was originally fastened to the stringer with screws and resin. The floor will rest on the tunnels, and kiss off the main stringer. Idk what a plank is.
    sorry, I was thinking it was a vee bottom

  11. #9
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    I've been learning a ton about composites the past couple weeks, and in this episode I'm going to dive into the different types of fiberglass (chopped vs mat vs woven vs biax) and their strengths and weaknesses, and touch on advanced composites like Coosa and Honeycomb panels to save weight and go more fast �� .


    I then did a rough CAD model of my boat in solidworks, and animated my entire current build plan, taking you through the process in detail, step by step, with my thoughts on why I am using each material where. This is the most advanced design I can come up with, and should be far stronger and lighter than it ever was.




    REALLY appreciate any feedback guys, unclear on the following details:

    1. Do I need glass in between my layers of coosa on my transom? Or is resin enough?

    2. If I use compression limiting sleeves, do I still overdrill through bolt areas and fill with resin?

    3. Glassin in the transom, once the coosa is in; how many layers of glass to seal it onto the boat? I was thinking 1 layer of CSM and then woven roving. Should I use regular cloth instead? Is that enough glass?

    4. Knee braces: should I just glass them onto the glass that is on the transom? Or is it better to install the knee braces and glass over the transom/knee braces all at once?

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  13. #10
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    I would cut 26 board to size then glass together with 1.5 mat then Install,

    Once again NO strength in resin it comes from the glass, would not worry about compression sleeves, with 26 board.

    Always use mat for adhesion, use 1708 forget the word (woven roving) that's so 60's
    We have invented the world WE see

    The further a society drifts from the truth, the more it will hate those that speak it.

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  15. #11
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    We have invented the world WE see

    The further a society drifts from the truth, the more it will hate those that speak it.

  16. #12
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    We have invented the world WE see

    The further a society drifts from the truth, the more it will hate those that speak it.

  17. #13
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    Walk him thru it cuda, yer a boat builder.

    83 V-King, Mercury 3.0 back on the transom
    Stop wearing the face bags people. Don't be a sheep!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  19. #14
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    I'm not sure why more people on this site aren't jumping at the chance to help such a nice well mannered fellow boating enthusiast make utube videos about all the things he learned here the day before? LOL
    ANTI40​It's just an idea.

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  21. #15
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    I wonder what would happen if his viewers knew how off the reservation he is.

    83 V-King, Mercury 3.0 back on the transom
    Stop wearing the face bags people. Don't be a sheep!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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