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  1. #16
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    Oh, hell. Never mind.....Just carry on burping bubbles.

    83 V-King, Mercury 3.0 back on the transom
    Stop wearing the face bags people. Don't be a sheep!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  2. #17
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    It is interesting to see all the difference approaches to this. The method I listed is essentially the same as any loader or hydraulic machinery that has a dump tank. This set up is completely self bleeding. Only difference with these steering systems is they are closed loop. Once the self bleeding is done, close the bleeders, done. Line orientation or routing doesnít matter.

    as for the setting valves I had no idea thatís something new I learned today thanks
    Hydrostream dreamin

  3. #18
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    I don't have the patience. 30 minute labor for someone with a power bleeder is well worth it to me.
    ANTI40​It's just an idea.

  4. Likes powerabout liked this post
  5. #19
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    I have a power bleeder, doesnt work on this system very well. The challenge is it switches direction in the same network. Most hydraulics are only in/out where these are flow left/right in a closed loop. A power bleeders struggles to get the center point bled properly where the tank style allows the system to remain wet for 100% of the switching and it does get out all the air. It took me 2 mins to use a razor knife and cut the bottom out of a 1 quart seastar fluid jug. I used the nipple adapter in my seastar kit on the bottle and the helm and I bought the clear line same size as supplied in the kit but I bought a 20' roll at Home depot. I used a forged eye with 3/8" threaded pedestal to drop the upside down seastar bottle into taped to a ladder in the air about 7' high and ran the 10' lengths of clear hose from the bleeders attached with tie wraps around the bleeder nipples then routed up to the top ( cut bottom ) of the seastar jug INTO THE FLUID. The ends of the lines have to be submerged into the fluid or this will not work. Cranked both bleeders open and then turned the wheel for 5 mins or so per side to get out all the air. That was it

    First time I did this the steering was responsive but I noticed the wheel clocking changed as I was driving so I wondered and approached bleeding it again. When i first started bleeding I had one air bubble about the size of a pea come up but one side only. While I was bleeding I realized the more I clocked the helm around that I could see very tiny bubbles starting to come up the lines. So I locked it all down and did the next day trick and now the wheel will not turn past lock no matter how hard I try. Im a big dude and I cranked on that wheel, its bricked tight.

    Since then driving has been butter. The only thing I dont like about the seastar is the clicking sound the helm makes when changing directions. Its a minor issue but it does bug me a little.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    I have a power bleeder, doesnt work on this system very well. The challenge is it switches direction in the same network. Most hydraulics are only in/out where these are flow left/right in a closed loop. A power bleeders struggles to get the center point bled properly where the tank style allows the system to remain wet for 100% of the switching and it does get out all the air. It took me 2 mins to use a razor knife and cut the bottom out of a 1 quart seastar fluid jug. I used the nipple adapter in my seastar kit on the bottle and the helm and I bought the clear line same size as supplied in the kit but I bought a 20' roll at Home depot. I used a forged eye with 3/8" threaded pedestal to drop the upside down seastar bottle into taped to a ladder in the air about 7' high and ran the 10' lengths of clear hose from the bleeders attached with tie wraps around the bleeder nipples then routed up to the top ( cut bottom ) of the seastar jug INTO THE FLUID. The ends of the lines have to be submerged into the fluid or this will not work. Cranked both bleeders open and then turned the wheel for 5 mins or so per side to get out all the air. That was it

    First time I did this the steering was responsive but I noticed the wheel clocking changed as I was driving so I wondered and approached bleeding it again. When i first started bleeding I had one air bubble about the size of a pea come up but one side only. While I was bleeding I realized the more I clocked the helm around that I could see very tiny bubbles starting to come up the lines. So I locked it all down and did the next day trick and now the wheel will not turn past lock no matter how hard I try. Im a big dude and I cranked on that wheel, its bricked tight.

    Since then driving has been butter. The only thing I dont like about the seastar is the clicking sound the helm makes when changing directions. Its a minor issue but it does bug me a little.
    The power bleeder built and sold by seastar, and the similar device sold by Uflex. These are the power bleeders I'm talking about. They flow the entire system.

    Are you saying these don't work properly? Or some other bleeder?
    ANTI40​It's just an idea.

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whaaaaat View Post
    The power bleeder built and sold by seastar, and the similar device sold by Uflex. These are the power bleeders I'm talking about. They flow the entire system.

    Are you saying these don't work properly? Or some other bleeder?
    I had no idea these existed I have a power bleeder for bleeding hydraulics made for auto use. Its a common named thing I didnt realize seastar had their own. Mine works great on conventional, but not worth a dang on the seastar
    Hydrostream dreamin

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