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  1. #1
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    Need a little help with 1984 evinrude 90hp

    I have worked on mercurys for years. I don't know much about omc. I bought this motor to put on a pontoon. It had been sitting for years. Mice ate most of the wires and ants were living in water pump. I rebuilt carbs, fixed wiring and replaced water pump. Changing water pumps on these motors are a pain. I started motor on muffs. Tell tale was pissing strong, but motor felt like it was getting hot. I noticed a lot of water squirting out of various holes in front of lower and at lower mating surface. is this normal? should I drill and tap on top of block for the tell tale?

  2. #2
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    that's good news!!!! I would rather dig a ditch all day than pull lower off again. there must be a special tool to get that linkage bolt back in. I struggled with it even with carbs off. No I don't have a temp gun. I pulled thermostat cover off. that's not easy either. probably a trick to that also. I removed every bolt in pan and it only gave me a little more room to work. Im gonna start it with therm cover off to make sure water is making it that far. Since mice and ants turned it into a condo, I was worried I had a clog somewhere. have a new kit with therms and springs/poppets to put in. I would like to have tell tale coming from top of block to always know im getting water up there

  3. #3
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    Mine would be too hot to touch and ran perfect for 30 years til I sold it
    Hydrostream dreamin

  4. #4
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    Oh yeah, those motors are no fun. Did you ever see the Tstats open up? those early ones had no access the Tstats, you have to pull the powerhead. AND, they give problems all the time. We probably have 4 or 5 of those 90 hp motors in the dirt that run perfect and have stuck thermostats. It just isn't worth the time messing with in my opinion. They burn loads of gas and have little to no resale value here; so why waste like $500 of your time pulling the lower and powerhead just to make it run cool again? There are no tricks to fix the Tstats aside from drilling access holes in the cowl like 3.0 optis have.

    Yeah and that shift rod going all the way up...like stated above its best to use a stiff flex 1/4" ratchet. I like the long springy screwdriver-like ones: https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Shaf.../dp/B08C7VMTGZ

    Yeah they can be hot to the touch on the powerhead, but not melt wires and coils and such.

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  6. #5
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    Yeah its good when you don't have to do the Tstats. I mean they drink gas compared to I-6 mercs and 3 cyl Johnsons from the same era. I can run all day with my 80s 3cyl Johnson on 4 gallons. ALL DAY, sun-up to sundown. But, those were damn good engines that are hard to beat even with today's motors. I rigged a NIB 80s 88 special two years ago, it hasn't had any problems. Of course, I put a water pump in it before it went out, but yeah the tstats were original and worked good.

    In the original post he asked about water squirting out of the lower. I would guess it is normal without seeing a picture because it does dump water down the mid. But if you miss aligning the water tubes it will make a big fountain inside the mid and no water will get up. Are you SURE you hit the water tube(s)

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  8. #6
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    crossflows are a bit more thirsty but man are they tough and reliable. Plus they really scream! I ain’t never met a fishing in-line I couldn’t roast. I ran the hell out of mine and it never failed me. Had a couple issues over the years but only impacting performance not anything that needed the tow rope. Never had to change the water pump either. Dang good motors
    Hydrostream dreamin

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    Ran on the hose with therm cover off. Dumps plenty of warm water from block. Wow!!! I think changing thermostats is harder than putting lower back on. Its a good thing I still have all of my fingers. I had to use them all to hold the springs, therms, poppets, gaskets, bolts etc.. I think I even said a new cuss word. It feels cooler to the touch now. Appreciate the advice Crazy.

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  11. #8
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	488965I paid $500 for it and would do it again. She is a freshwater cherry. Very little use. never had a wrench turned on it. impeller was original

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  13. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 25two.stroke View Post
    Oh yeah, those motors are no fun. Did you ever see the Tstats open up? those early ones had no access the Tstats, you have to pull the powerhead. AND, they give problems all the time. We probably have 4 or 5 of those 90 hp motors in the dirt that run perfect and have stuck thermostats. It just isn't worth the time messing with in my opinion. They burn loads of gas and have little to no resale value here; so why waste like $500 of your time pulling the lower and powerhead just to make it run cool again? There are no tricks to fix the Tstats aside from drilling access holes in the cowl like 3.0 optis have.

    Yeah and that shift rod going all the way up...like stated above its best to use a stiff flex 1/4" ratchet. I like the long springy screwdriver-like ones: https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Shaf.../dp/B08C7VMTGZ

    Yeah they can be hot to the touch on the powerhead, but not melt wires and coils and such.
    you can do the stats by dropping the pan mounts, did it lots of times

    il6 150 Merc at WOT uses more fuel than a 140 for sure..
    Last edited by powerabout; 06-18-2021 at 05:52 AM.

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  15. #10
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    I did it with pan in place. It was a booger, but fixed now.

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  17. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullet123 View Post
    I did it with pan in place. It was a booger, but fixed now.
    Shame they never shift the stats to the heads like a v6

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  19. #12
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    Would be easier if you didn't have to do 2 poppets and 2 thermostats at the same time also. I thought the water flowed to the stats before going through the engine. kinda had a brain fart. kinda surprised me when water started dumping from the hoses from the block. Im not blaming the 6 beers I drank either. lol

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  21. #13
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    Don't bitch..... try doing it on a 115 with the bubbleback...............

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    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

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  23. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy View Post
    On a 140? I thought the 140 with the exhaust bell, you have to remove the powerhead. I like where they put the T stats on the V6 Xflows!
    no do-able when you remove the lower pan bolts so it drops down ( plus the cowl exposing the powerhead bolts)
    I got a service training instructor to prove it to the class once...
    Last edited by powerabout; 06-20-2021 at 04:16 AM.

  24. #15
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    I thought I remember hearing that the v4's have better cooling distribution than its big brother because of where the tstats are located. Dont get me wrong, I'd rather have v6 stats all day long, but dont the 4's have better cooling? On my couple of v4's I do have, everytime I have swapped or pulled the powerhead, I have done the stats........all bubblebacks.

    On my new 115(which I finally got bolted on, but not done), the previous owner had drilled two holes to get a socket thru the belly pan to get to the bolts. I opened up the holes with a unibit.....to make them round, and then siliconed a rubber grommet in place to blank it off. I will post pics of it in my thread. I can just push out the grommets if I need to access the bolts. The holes were already there, so I just dressed them up and blanked them off. You cant even really see them with the motor in running trim.

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