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  1. #31
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    Bullet ,

    I got involved for a reason , stayed for another , and now as the voice of reason you gave me food for thought as to why I should step away from the ledge .
    Thanks brother .. I'm done with this thread ...

  2. #32
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    Thanks again for sharing your infinite wisdom with us on here. I for one enjoy seeing the pictures of your machine work. I just started tig aluminum a few months ago, yours look pretty dang good. I might have to hit you up for some tips.

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  4. #33
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    Guys, mine is carbureted and ORinged. Mine has the larger carb offering for the xr6 for that year. Four petal reeds.

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kdybalski View Post
    Guys, mine is carbureted and ORinged. Mine has the larger carb offering for the xr6 for that year. Four petal reeds.
    I don't know how to help you bud. Whenever some posts for help, someone that knows how to help tries to help. Someone else chimes in with useless info, then an arguement starts. The people who can and will help get chastized, then get out of the thread. Maybe just PM Chaz with the question and ask him directly to keep it simple.

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kdybalski View Post
    I have a 2003 2.5 150 xr6 that I want to get extra performance out of and thinking about changing the port timing while the block is apart and putting a better timer on it while I am in there. It has super low hours, but had a problem with one piston, thus the tear down. This motor does have the compression relief built into the cylinder. Some say no go on any mods, but others say it does not make much difference and will respond to port work? Any suggestions!! Btw, motor is going on a somewhat light bass boat and want to get over 200 hp to push lager prop. Some say the motor stock is around 168 to 170 hp now. It has the bigger carbs on it now. Any other mods suggested. If you say tuner, which one. What’s best bang for buck.
    It would be much easier and probably cheaper to find a good 200 block and put your internals in it.

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  8. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    wasn't gonna do this but can't help myself 'cause of "disinformation"... ya really showin' ya ass here!.. your right 'bout tha tatoo!.. oh look, they were built it up ta '05??? .. guess Crowley Marine, and everyone else that sells motors and parts, got that wrong too... tha XR6 is a CARBURATED MOTOR with an ecm (that pretty much controls all tha 'lectrics)! ​don't make a **** how much hp tha cdm will support... check ya diagrams again please... looky here, i found your emoji button!!!!!! will jus leave it at that....



    2003 Mercury Outboard 150XR6 [L] [1150454AD] - Parts Lookup - Crowley Marine
    So i was rattling my marbles around about this a couple months ago. My goal was to take the CDM lectrics off a donor XR6 to use on a new ported FF build. That dang ECM box has been my only hang up. Not only is it a retard module but its necessary to convert stator voltage into usable pixies for the CDM packs. So there's some other magic going on in there that the older retard boxes don't do. Once i had the opportunity to bounce this around with a blond headed, danish eatin foreigner who has more brain cells than i do, it appears that the ECM from a CDM EFI motor has the potential to solve the retarded timing dilemma. Since the ECU is what's responsible for holding back your rippums at WOT on an EFI, the ECM box does not have that circuit which banes the carbbie cousin. I did a lot of research on this and have only seen one mention of it in an archived thread. If this actually works and/or someone has tried it, PLEASE let us all know.
    "The character of a man can be easily judged by how he treats those who can do nothing for him"

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  10. #37
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    To the OP, i went through the same questions youre bringing up a few years ago. It didnt take long to add up the cost of making a 200 out of a 150 and came up about the same as just buying a 200. Look at it like this, if you convert your 150 into something else you have one motor. If you spend that money on a 200 you have 2!
    "The character of a man can be easily judged by how he treats those who can do nothing for him"

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  12. #38
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    What tommy (tlwjkw) was trying to get across earlier in this post is that CDM/Oring motors are much harder and expensive to get bolt on horsepower.

  13. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullet123 View Post
    What tommy (tlwjkw) was trying to get across earlier in this post is that CDM/Oring motors are much harder and expensive to get bolt on horsepower.
    Any year 200 or 225 that is better to look for. Thanks guys for all the input. Is it worth finding an efi 200 or 225 or just save the money and go carb.

  14. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kdybalski View Post
    Any year 200 or 225 that is better to look for. Thanks guys for all the input. Is it worth finding an efi 200 or 225 or just save the money and go carb.
    like i was sayin' at tha start.. its not tha motor itself, its tha electronics that limit its performance.. doesn't make any difference with efi and/or carb... it has an control module (part number 857185T1 in your case) that limits its performance period.... all production 2000 up 2.0/2.5's do.. as far as i know there is no one or no product that can change it.. plus its got that heavy assed 40 amp flywheel.. sure ya can make it turn up to its limits a little quicker but 6 grand, give or take a coupla hundred, is gonna be all there is.................................. hope ya get it figured out.. its your choice..
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 06-19-2021 at 05:09 AM.

  15. #41
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    here is a description of some of what that module actually does

    The control module provides rev-limit (carb models), bias control, shift stabilizer, idle stabilizer, injector timing signal (EFI models), and low oil warning.On carburetor models, the rev-limiter affects the cylinders in the following sequence2-3-4-5-6-1. As the engine rpm exceeds the maximum specification (5900 ± 100), thecontrol module will retard the timing on cylinder #2. The controller will retard the timinga maximum of 30 degrees and then, if necessary, stop spark on the cylinder. If the enginerpm is still above the maximum specification, the controller will begin to retard timing onthe next cylinder, then stop spark, continuing in sequence until the engine rpm drops below the maximum specification.

    save ya $$$$ and find yourself a good 225PM for performance and reliability........... jmo.
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 06-19-2021 at 05:24 AM.

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