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  1. #16
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    while you guys are on this thread
    has anyone ever glassed in G10 or should it only get used as a backing plates
    thanks

  2. #17
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    G10 is way too dense to be a core material for
    something like a boat transom. It’s like a 110 pounds per cubic foot. It’s also super expensive. It would basically be equivalent to making the layup
    without a core.

    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    while you guys are on this thread
    has anyone ever glassed in G10 or should it only get used as a backing plates
    thanks
    Last edited by colinJ; 06-04-2021 at 12:06 AM.

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  4. #18
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    Im using coosa for transom I like it. I submerged a piece in water for a week and its still as dry as the day I put it in there I cannot tell any water infiltration at all so Im going to try another test piece and weigh it first. I didnt do any layers of 1708 inbtween layers ( none said anything about this in my transom thread, nor my build thread ) but its in there now so it is what it is. I am laying the glass very thick on both inside and outside 1708 vinyester as well as using compression sleeves.

    Speaking of compression sleeves I was thinking about aluminum? Any naysayers?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  5. #19
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    I don’t think you need compression sleeves with 1708, coosa and vinylester unless your going super thin with the 1708. I used 1708 coosa and vinylester. I did go too thick with the 1708 but it’s rock solid. I think I could have used half the fiberglass that I actually used and it would have been strong enough. I would say if you have at least 3 layers of 1708 where the engine bolts in than you would be good just using large fender washers. But it would be a good idea to add a few extra layers of 1708 directly behind the motor mounting bolts if you goo too thin.

    Also if you do use compression sleeves aluminum is a bad idea, it pits and oxidizes. Stainless steel is a better choice.

    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    Im using coosa for transom I like it. I submerged a piece in water for a week and its still as dry as the day I put it in there I cannot tell any water infiltration at all so Im going to try another test piece and weigh it first. I didnt do any layers of 1708 inbtween layers ( none said anything about this in my transom thread, nor my build thread ) but its in there now so it is what it is. I am laying the glass very thick on both inside and outside 1708 vinyester as well as using compression sleeves.

    Speaking of compression sleeves I was thinking about aluminum? Any naysayers?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg  
    Last edited by colinJ; 06-04-2021 at 10:33 AM.

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  7. #20
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    Right on thanks for the info! I too have gone overboard with the 1708 layers I have at least four plus the factory glass in the outer skin and Im going to do at least one more 1708 with VE on the outside of the skin as well as a layer of two of CSM to finish it up nice. Then duplicate that inside.

    Its my first rodeo so I dont want to come up light on strength and I really dont mind adding 50lbs more glass and resin into this thing if it makes it tank level strong. Both you and Xstream say not to bother with the sleeves, maybe I wont. As for the aluminum coroding being a fresh water only guy I didnt ever think of that but good point I wont use aluminum. I might do carbon fiber if I do go this way but leaning towards nothing now.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  8. #21
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    colinJ, You sound well versed in glass. You have some experience at boat building with FRP? If you don't mind me asking....

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  9. #22
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    Thanks for the info guys. Really want to do composite just having trouble sourcing it.

  10. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    colinJ, You sound well versed in glass. You have no some experience at boat building with FRP? If you don't mind me asking....
    Not actually boats, I am a navy employee and my education is as an electrical engineer but functionally I work as an ocean engineer. I work on the design primarily of unmanned submarines and test fixtures. We use allot of plastics like G10, acetal, carbon fiber etc.

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  12. #24
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    Very, very, cool job.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  13. #25
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    We have invented the world; WE see

  14. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADDvanced View Post
    Thanks for the info guys. Really want to do composite just having trouble sourcing it.
    Is there any reason that you're stuck on composites?

    Its not so much the core material as much as it is the layup schedule.

    A properly done wood boat, will never need to be touched again.

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  16. #27
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    Idk, I've done wood before, kind of want to see what foam is all about. 30-40% weight savings sounds cool on an air entrapment hull..... if it was a normal hull I wouldn't really be considering it.

  17. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADDvanced View Post
    Idk, I've done wood before, kind of want to see what foam is all about. 30-40% weight savings sounds cool on an air entrapment hull..... if it was a normal hull I wouldn't really be considering it.
    carbon, foam and good design you can do anything lighter

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