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  1. #31
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    balsa
    foam
    balsa
    foam
    balsa
    foam

    vinylester also over 50 years old.
    invented for the chemical industry for pipes and tanks surely that was a clue for people that build boats to put in the water?
    Last edited by powerabout; 06-08-2022 at 11:02 PM.

  2. #32
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    We used vinylester building the sport fish boats when I was in Fla.
    I know it’s better than poly but I never saw any difference in what we did.

    A bilge w/water n oil on it for 20 yrs maybe???

    Im a tight wad so I look at how cheaply I can build it w/o breaking it and that’s how I do it.

    Ive done enough shade tree tests to convince me enough to have no second thoughts.

    When I recorded my Vector a 100 yrs ago I read everything there was.
    But when we’re comparing one method to another done improperly……, what have we learned?

    Hydrostream sucked at balsa core so we use foam, that’s 50% more expensive?
    Vinylester instead of poly for the same reason??

    Not counting that Stream, Ive owned three balsa cored boats, Checkmates that I cut into, that had zero delam issues.

    A ‘1969 16’ that sat outside, uncovered its entire life.
    Zero delam!

    My ‘87 25’ Convincor that I have now, I’ve cut into transom, hull, stringers, floor, deck (side and front) and bulkheads and had zero issues.
    Some was plywood but my theory is, good lamination is good lamination.

    Only issue I found was in the sun lounge, where the pad was bolted to/through it.
    The factory must have had fourty 1/4” bolts/holes, holding it on!

    I had to repair some of that core around the bolt holes where it doesn’t look like they were treated.
    Balsas fault???

    So what needs improved??

    To save 5% weight? Already lighter than most.
    Add 10% strength? Already survived 35 yrs.

    To do it to do it, or to race it…., I get it.

    I took a scrap off a 1 1/2” thick transom I made from two pcs of 3/4” ext ply, laminated together w/2 layers of 2 Oz mat w/poly resin and threw it in my yard.
    When we lived in Fla.

    Made sure it was where it go sun, rain etc.
    Last I checked, it had been there 2 or 3 yrs and showed no signs of delam!
    And that’s bottom of the barrel material!

    I guess my theory has always been, and I think validated, method is way more important than material.

    Kinda back to the old Bass and Wallaye mag story where two biggest builders of the day, one w/balsa, one w/NO WOOD agreed that done correctly, it’s all marketing.

    Carry on ��




    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    balsa
    foam
    balsa
    foam
    balsa
    foam

    vinylester also over 50 years old.
    invented for the chemical industry for pipes and tanks surely that was a clue for people that build boats to put in the water?
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

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  4. #33
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    As a newb after working with both i prefer the vinylester for a few reasons. The number one reason is it adheres much better. Number two is the secondary bonding window is at least a week if not two where poly has to be sanded soon as its kicked for another lay. Number three is it definitely is water proof, im seeing zero degradation in these water tests where the poly is certainly breaking down.

    my thoughts on materials are this; if its just a repair or a build for something your going to have a while and move on from? Then instigator im with you 100% use the cheapest materials that will get the job done properly. But if the goal is to hang onto it for perhaps life? Then buy the best materials possible. Considering the cost difference on a small boat would a coupla three grand its not such that its a life altering expense.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  6. #34
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    Foam, vinyl, and 1708 for me.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  8. #35
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    My hull came with loads of new balsa core so i used it. If i was buying new id probably have gone with foam mostly for ease of use now that i have worked with balsa it was messy and i did have to use a lot more resin to bond and seal it so that puts the cost advantage closer.

    I will be very surprised if any issues come up with mine the way i laid it in with corebond after two coats of poly on the core then two more of vinyester on top of the balsa after bedding and faring and then two layers of vinyl 1708 over the core before laying stringers and then the pad area using fat tabs first then one piece of 1708 up/across/up the stringers over the pad so there is plenty of protection. I didnt gel it either so i can keep an eye on it over time.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  9. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    Foam, vinyl, and 1708 for me.
    ......

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  11. #37
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    vinylester is not only waterproof its stronger and stiffer than poly plus has a chemical bond when its repaired on itself and over poly

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  13. #38
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    ...vinylester is much superior to general purpose(gp) polyester resin, in many ways. its barcol rating will surprise you if you ever test/check it's surface hardness, even after its fully cured. if you are used to only using gp resin, its a different world, that will have you shaking your head. its secondary bonding characteristics are just one of its many advantages...

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  15. #39
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    ...this is what your typical barcol hardness tester looks like. its not rocket science. it basically is just a sharp pin, that, when you push down on the tool, presses into the top of the surface of your fiberglass project & gives you a reading of hardness on the dial indicator. regular cured gp resin is in the 60 to 90 range. cured vinylester is less...is softer...

  16. #40
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    Lot more resistant to cracking too it seems

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  17. #41
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    The uncoated piece is starting to rot now. The poly coated piece also looks to be rotting. The vinyl piece looks like it sprung a leak on one end as it now floats vertical. The vinyl shows no signs of decay though while the other two look nasty

    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	35 
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    Hydrostream dreamin

  18. #42
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    What do you do for Fun?........watch grass grow.......Me....... I watch wood rot................

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  20. #43
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    Scientific thinkers are always testing what we already know to see if the old truths still hold true. This is a plain example of how NOT to build a boat that will get wet. If you did the same with penske or divinnycell, there would not be any measurable saturation. I like to see the results of stuff like this. It's a good reminder.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  22. #44
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    Just curious if the poly resin you are using is laminating resin with no surface additive in it or it is finishing resin which does have the additive and will dry with a slick non sticky surface. I have coated and laminated different things over the years with finish resin with good longevity.
    1970 15' Allison/135 Chrysler stacker
    RC Mod-VP Boats

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  23. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Poole ModVP View Post
    Just curious if the poly resin you are using is laminating resin with no surface additive in it or it is finishing resin which does have the additive and will dry with a slick non sticky surface. I have coated and laminated different things over the years with finish resin with good longevity.
    Fair question. The poly resin is general purpose laminating resin. This experiment has brought quite a few thoughts to mind as I watch these little pieces fight a war of attrition against water. Its really incredible how fast the uncoated pieces became saturated and how well a single coat of resin protected these pieces. If a balsa core is installed properly in my opinion the top surface of the balsa needs to be coated with resin over and over until the balsa will soak no more resin. Then lay the glass over it. If this is done the boat would have to be abused with a continually wet bilge for years and years to create damage. For boats that live in the drink balsa might not be the best choice but for us go fast guys who typically have trailer/dry stored boats? The balsa fear is grossly over stated imo.

    I might run a third test with conditions more similar to real world use and do two coats on the balsa along with one in waxed gel which should serve to the question above.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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