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Thread: Pjust gonelywood to fiberglass
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05-23-2021, 01:26 PM #15000 RPM
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Pjust gonelywood to fiberglass
Have a question, I am in the process of rebuilding the rear hatch for my Bayliner 3888, and before you ask " why is this idiot posting here about some big a$$ cruiser, it does have twin small block Chevys with Holley carbs" Anyway, this is a fiberglass door with a little wood around the perimeter of the inside, screwed to this is a cover which looks like an 1/8 fiberglass sheet, glued to this sheet looks like a sheet of 1/4 inch plywood. It looks like they used the plywood to screw everything to because there is no other wood to screw the hinges to. This plywood is just gone, the fiberglass on the inside is just rough, my question is, How do I adhere the new plywood to the fiberglass??? ............. Oh yeah, I do have a little MX-14 Checkmate with a short shaft TOP bolted on the back. Thanks for the help
That is supposed to read adhere plywood to fiberglass, sorryLast edited by 1954bmw; 05-23-2021 at 01:28 PM.
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05-24-2021, 06:46 PM #2
I think the best way would be to pull the hatch, scuff the surface with a 36grit disk and use a layer of CSM to bond the plywood. I think core bond could be an option too. Or if you want to half ass it, a tube of 5200 would do wonders.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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05-24-2021, 07:14 PM #35000 RPM
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Hatch is all opened up, the cover piece is off and all the old plywood has been chiseled off, have a new 36 grit disc. Csm and resin and weigh it down??? Thanks for the reply
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05-24-2021, 07:34 PM #4
I think that would be fine. Wouldn’t hurt to drill a grid of small holes to allow air out. Could always tab in the edges too. But that’s probably overkill. I’m sure someone with more experience than me will chime in soon enough. Are you walking on this hatch?
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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1954bmw thanked for this post
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05-24-2021, 08:27 PM #55000 RPM
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No, this is the transom door.
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05-24-2021, 08:47 PM #6
Oh ok. I think bonding with CSM would do it. But I’m an amateur, not an expert.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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1954bmw thanked for this post
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06-05-2021, 07:01 PM #75000 RPM
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Tnelsmn, did just as you suggested, probably used too much resin but seems to be sticking just fine, currently grinding the edges down and all looks good, hope to install the transom door this week. Thank you again.
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06-07-2021, 05:57 PM #8
Happy to help! I wish some of the experts would've jumped in here too. But I'm sure they've seen it and if I was way off base they would've corrected us haha.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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1954bmw liked this post
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