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  1. #16
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    I agree cut it out go flat, you talking about a LOT of useless work.
    We have invented the world; WE see

  2. #17
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    Have any pics of the splashwell delete? I can't picture it.

  3. #18
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    I dont have any pictures but instead of it dipping down into the splashwell just cut out the splashwell and make it all flat and even from the top of the transom to right behind the backseat area.


    Ralph Musser
    27' Fountain Fever W/ 525SC
    22' Rapid Craft W/ Evinrude 300 V8 January 2009 BOAT OF THE MONTH SOLD
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  4. #19
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    Advanced - I have seen a few threads on that splashwell area straightened out - your going to have to use the Search and hopefully find it early .

  5. #20
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    Just cut out splash well do your removal and replacement and many different ways of covering the large hole,

    one of the best is to use a smooth surface to make a replacement, wax properly then gelcoat, mat, 1208 / 1708

    use to fill hole gel coat patch area, gel coat repair area wet sand buff good as new

    Looks like your on a mission... not scared
    We have invented the world; WE see

  6. #21
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    When you install replacement, bevel near seam area for narrow layer of mat, the underside is where you beef up for strength, make sure to sand well the under side where glass will attach.
    Last edited by CUDA; 05-29-2021 at 06:46 AM.
    We have invented the world; WE see

  7. #22
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    Who was the one that came on and started saying small dick energy on threads........?
    This is basic info...and Why people shouldn't come on acting like.........
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

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  9. #23
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    Sleekcraft Sunday Update #3, Transom Inspection and wtf do I do now:


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  11. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADDvanced View Post
    Sleekcraft Sunday Update #3, Transom Inspection and wtf do I do now:


    Keepitsimple

    Just use a cut off wheel, where the motor well drops down cut a line(front part of well ) at edge back towards transom, remove whole well area now you have access to rotted wood, don't get fancy Home Depot has 3/4 marine plywood one strip will be good for stringers round top edges so 1708/1208 will flow no air bubbles with a layer of mat underneath use resin roller to get excess and air out, your strength is the glass, install mat and 1708 between two sheets of that 3/4 plywood use vinyl ester, make sure everything is sealed with resin, for transom.

    Most shops have a big flat smooth well waxed table to make parts, I would make a template of the hole you have to cover and make a part to fit, whatever you can find at HD with a high gloss surface wax 4 to 5 times with mold wax let dry between coats very important paint with white gel coat let it kick then two layers of mat and two 1208 or 1708 fit install finish gel.
    Last edited by CUDA; 05-30-2021 at 01:50 PM.
    We have invented the world; WE see

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  13. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    Who was the one that came on and started saying small dick energy on threads........?
    This is basic info...and Why people shouldn't come on acting like.........
    If it was a basic bitch boat with basic bitch design, it'd be super simple. But it isn't. Not sure I want to chop up the splashwell. Imma go look at it and keep pulling parts off it.

  14. #26
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    It's not that hard at all .. or pulling the deck off isnt either just time consuming mostly if going to do it might as well go all in. End up with a better end result. Just depends on which way you decide to go. Get all that hardware of and everything else it's got to come off unless your doing a **** job and not worth it then.
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  15. #27
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    Right now I'm thinking multi piece layered transom, with the seam/joint between the pieces moving around between the layers. That way I wouldn't have to split the hull, and splashwell would stay untouched.

    More annoying, but when I redid my aristocrat it was a total bitch to even out a cut in the gel coat; get it good in one spot and go through in another, repeat x infinity.

  16. #28
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    Back up and punt....you are on your own. You don't need help since you have that small dck energy and all.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  18. #29
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    Okay, I backed up, sank a rum and coke, and turned into a butcher:



    Before this, I was under the deck trying to cut out the transom, but the issue was the splashwell dives down RIGHT IN FRONT of the upper part of the transom, and there's a brass drain hole that goes through it, and... I just don't see how it was going to happen with a multipiece, maybe someone smarter than me could accomplish it, but this is the current game plan:

    - Cutout splashwell (done)
    - Remove/Replace Transom
    - Hang splashwell back on, at the right height
    - Glass from below (that'll be fun)
    - fill cut marks with resin and gelcoat

    Might not be perfect but oh well. Going for it!

    Also I have massive dick energy man, I measured it and I'm in the 95th percentile

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  20. #30
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    Didn't that feel good

    Got to crack a couple of eggs to make a omelet

    Got some big c clamp vice grips
    We have invented the world; WE see

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