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06-06-2021, 09:48 AM #31Guest
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Sleekcraft Sunday Update #4 is live! This episode is removing the jackplate, pondering, drinking, and chopping out that whole splashwell and my thought process for goign this direcection.
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06-13-2021, 10:29 AM #32Guest
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EP5 is up:
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stokernick liked this post
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06-20-2021, 11:33 AM #33Guest
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Episode 6!
Tearing into the seats, this should apply to pretty much any jet boat/small high perf boat.
My GF learns how to use a jigsaw, I buy a snowmobile, and we save a bird bro.
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John S liked this post
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06-27-2021, 12:00 PM #34Guest
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Sleekcraft Sunday #7! I've been learning a ton about composites the past couple weeks, and in this episode I'm going to dive into the different types of fiberglass (chopped vs mat vs woven vs biax) and their strengths and weaknesses, and touch on advanced composites like Coosa and Honeycomb panels to save weight and go more fast �� .
I then did a rough CAD model of my boat in solidworks, and animated my entire current build plan, taking you through the process in detail, step by step, with my thoughts on why I am using each material where. This is the most advanced design I can come up with, and should be far stronger and lighter than it ever was.
REALLY appreciate any feedback guys, unclear on the following details:
1. Do I need glass in between my layers of coosa on my transom? Or is resin enough?
2. If I use compression limiting sleeves, do I still overdrill through bolt areas and fill with resin?
3. Glassin in the transom, once the coosa is in; how many layers of glass to seal it onto the boat? I was thinking 1 layer of CSM and then woven roving. Should I use regular cloth instead? Is that enough glass?
4. Knee braces: should I just glass them onto the glass that is on the transom? Or is it better to install the knee braces and glass over the transom/knee braces all at once?
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06-28-2021, 03:01 PM #35Member
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I just have one question. Why not epoxy?
Great info!
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XstreamVking liked this post
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06-28-2021, 04:52 PM #36Guest
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I used epoxy on my little hydroplane project, it was okay, but I felt it was a lot harder to control; it was WAY runnier, and sometimes it felt like it took forever to actually setup. With polyester you can just mix more hardener in it and it'll def setup, you can thin it out, idk.
Also, I want to use CSM in places and that isn't compatible with CSM, from what I've read.
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Charli liked this post
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06-28-2021, 05:11 PM #37
All kinds of epoxy, vinyl ester works just like polyester, It's not that It's not compatible, but it has no Styrene in it and that is what let's the fiberglass move around you can still use mat It just won't flow move around easily.
I buy my epoxy that uses one base but you can use different hardener's I normally go with the 3:1 and It's not thin.
https://www.fgci.com/item/125246/Non...3B-Gallon-Jug/
Like anything you have to learn the quirks of the product you are using.
https://www.fgci.com/products
jLast edited by CUDA; 06-28-2021 at 05:18 PM.
We have invented the world; WE see
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06-28-2021, 05:32 PM #38
good vids, prolly can lose the background music tho.
Last edited by Pulse186; 06-28-2021 at 06:57 PM.
2023 Progression 22 w/ 2015 Mercury 300XS. 2018 Kawasaki Ultra LX. 1969 Hustler Wildcat. Gone but not forgotten: 1991 POS GW Invader. 1976 Donzi Hornet II. 1994 Formula 232 LS. 2001 Regal 2660. 1990 Formula 206 LS. 1992 Checkmate Pulse 186 w/ 2003 Mercury 200 EFI. Random assortment of jet skis.
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07-11-2021, 12:18 PM #39Guest
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I use background music because the audio is generally ****. I just record with a go pro and it picks up every chipmunk, bird, airplane, passing car, etc. I have to run all the audio through a backround noise reduction filter, and the voices wind up sounding super warbly, so I just mask it with beats :P
Anyway, big update!
Sleekcraft Sunday #8!
THE STIFFEST: Composite Comparo and more!
In this episode:
- Whining about suppliers
- Motor (boat)
- Trailer Trash
- Miller Time
- Composite Comparison
- Is it stiff enough for her?
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John S, OrangeCrush liked this post
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07-17-2021, 10:16 AM #40Guest
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Finally ordered coosa!!! Should be here next week, god damn that took like 2-3 weeks off my progress here.
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07-18-2021, 11:17 AM #41Guest
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So I'm waiting for Coosa, and wanted to go boating. I dewinterized my Aristocrat Tunnel and covered my girl in friggin ants lol wtf
I cannot make this **** up! Some ants decided to make a nest in my headers and she got completely covered in ants lmao
Anyway, she is running sweet, just need to find a new outdrive (alpha SS), if anyone has a lead on one lmk.
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08-01-2021, 12:44 PM #42
Looking GOOD
It's always more work then you pondered before hand...
Old Bruce Nescher who owned Sleekcraft boats has a big smile on
The finished product will be worth It...
Just get a 260 or 280 for ItWe have invented the world; WE see
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ADDvanced liked this post
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08-01-2021, 01:07 PM #43
My 84 MVP boat had a 1/2 inch strip of plywood about 2 inches wide bevel the top corners laid in the center not vertical like a stringer, lay in a bed of mat put weight on till hard, cover with 1708 strip, in place of vertical stringer, that you removed, like you said the design gives It much natural strength.
On the transom you can stick a sheet of 3/4" or 1 " Nida core between the coosa with mat
Many different waysWe have invented the world; WE see
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08-01-2021, 01:24 PM #44Team Member
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Are poured transom strong enough?
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08-04-2021, 10:17 AM #45Guest
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I think it would be, but I'm going to skip the poured transom, and stick to my original plan (coosa transom, coosa stringer, nidacore floor).
I saw someone respond on YT that they were doing a similar build, and they were doing a poured transom with carbon fiber tubes?! Wild, but makes sense as long as you don't drill through the tubes.
Here's a demonstration of carbon cores pour in transom, seems strong AF:
It seems pretty strong, the only reason I'm not doing it is that I don't want to wait, and the coosa I already have is overkill for the floor, and I definitely am back on wanting a stringer... so... yeah.
One problem tho, carbon core's nidacore is super affordable, but HOLY HELL THE SHIPPING. A sheet of Carbon Core's Nidacore honeycomb is $50, which is not so bad at all, but shipping two sheets to my house is $200. So $200 in shipping for $100 worth of product. Ugh.
I'm going to see if I can find something else, that is just a stupid amount of shipping costs.
In terms of updates, past few nights I have been suited up and using 36 grit flappy wheel to grind the tops of both tunnels, the sides of where the floor mounts to the tunnels, the transom, and the bilge area. SO. MUCH. DUST. Planning on cutting the coosa very very soon, bought special fiberglass jigsaw blades for it.
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