Need Help with Wiring Up a Verado Power Steering Pump!!

**Hydrogasm** · 05-10-2021, 09:41 PM

Over the winter I removed the Capilano 1275V helm from Cougar 22MTR with twin 300Xs and installed a Zeiger 7" tilt helm, Charlyn 80cc valve and an early version of a Mercury Verado power steering pump. I am not sure how to wire it into my system. I have the main power harness installed but I need to know how to complete the wiring. There is a Driver Module Harness that has 3 wires (black, purple and white/blue) into a female 3 pin connector which according to the service manual plugs into the engine harness. I don't think my engines have that harness. I have attached a photo of the Driver Module Harness. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Gary

**Davidlake** · 05-11-2021, 11:13 AM

I have a Skater w/ twin 300XS's. I wired directly to the pump with two switches, similar to the Mercury pump test "switch" controller. As I remember, one wire is positive (power) going to each switch and the two other wires go to each switch. They are required to be switched on with one second of each other to stimulate the pump into "on" status. I liked this arrangement so I could turn off an on the pump with the engines running or powered up and static. I didn't like the pump always on when the keys were in the on position. Check out the Mercury pump switch controller instructions and it should be clear. I just duplicated the switch wiring that it has. You can use the plug end from the Driver module to connect to the pump and splice wires up to the helm where you would mount your switches.

**Hydrogasm** · 05-11-2021, 07:20 PM

Originally Posted by Davidlake

I have a Skater w/ twin 300XS's. I wired directly to the pump with two switches, similar to the Mercury pump test "switch" controller. As I remember, one wire is positive (power) going to each switch and the two other wires go to each switch. They are required to be switched on with one second of each other to stimulate the pump into "on" status. I liked this arrangement so I could turn off an on the pump with the engines running or powered up and static. I didn't like the pump always on when the keys were in the on position. Check out the Mercury pump switch controller instructions and it should be clear. I just duplicated the switch wiring that it has. You can use the plug end from the Driver module to connect to the pump and splice wires up to the helm where you would mount your switches.

Davidlake
I looked through the installation instructions that came with the pump kit and a service manual for the pump as well but I did not see any mention the Mercury pump switch controller anywhere. I do have the Power Steering Module Primer Kit though which has power and pump switches. Do you have the wiring diagram for the Mercury pump switch controller that you could e-mail me? My address is garyeisnor@xplornet.ca
Thanks
Gary

**Hydrogasm** · 07-31-2021, 12:42 PM

Originally Posted by Davidlake

I have a Skater w/ twin 300XS's. I wired directly to the pump with two switches, similar to the Mercury pump test "switch" controller. As I remember, one wire is positive (power) going to each switch and the two other wires go to each switch. They are required to be switched on with one second of each other to stimulate the pump into "on" status. I liked this arrangement so I could turn off an on the pump with the engines running or powered up and static. I didn't like the pump always on when the keys were in the on position. Check out the Mercury pump switch controller instructions and it should be clear. I just duplicated the switch wiring that it has. You can use the plug end from the Driver module to connect to the pump and splice wires up to the helm where you would mount your switches.

David
I am still working on my boat. I ordered a single rocker switch from Eddie Marine to turn the pump on. Do you think that I could connect both wires together and run it on a single switch or should I go with two switches? Let me know.
Thanks
Gary

**HydroSkreamin** · 08-01-2021, 07:38 AM

If you wire both switches together, it takes a long time for the pump to spool up, and it starts out super slow. That’s why the primer unit has two switches and instructions tell you to wait five seconds between switches.

The first switch wakes the unit controller, and the second simulates the engine running signal on the Verado. Your Opti is not putting out that signal, but I believe that you could duplicate that intent from your alternator field excite wire. This way, you’d wire the unit wake wire from your key switch, and engine runs sense wire would be from your alternator field excite wire and there’s no manual involvement necessary because you’ve mimicked the factory system.

Just a thought. I haven’t actually done this myself, but as long as the alternator field excite wire doesn’t have voltage until engine is running, it should work.

I thought Mercury actually sells a kit to do this for an Opti?

**Hydrogasm** · 08-01-2021, 07:52 AM

Originally Posted by HydroSkreamin

If you wire both switches together, it takes a long time for the pump to spool up, and it starts out super slow. That’s why the primer unit has two switches and instructions tell you to wait five seconds between switches.

The first switch wakes the unit controller, and the second simulates the engine running signal on the Verado. Your Opti is not putting out that signal, but I believe that you could duplicate that intent from your alternator field excite wire. This way, you’d wire the unit wake wire from your key switch, and engine runs sense wire would be from your alternator field excite wire and there’s no manual involvement necessary because you’ve mimicked the factory system.

Just a thought. I haven’t actually done this myself, but as long as the alternator field excite wire doesn’t have voltage until engine is running, it should work.

I thought Mercury actually sells a kit to do this for an Opti?

HydroSkreamin
Thanks for the tip however I have 300X motors not Optis, so my best solution I think is to wire two separate switches like the primer unit.
Thanks again
Gary

**HydroSkreamin** · 08-01-2021, 09:35 AM

Originally Posted by Hydrogasm

HydroSkreamin
Thanks for the tip however I have 300X motors not Optis, so my best solution I think is to wire two separate switches like the primer unit.
Thanks again
Gary

My idea using the alternator field excite wire still applies to a 300X!

It will work either way, just trying to make it with minimal user interface.

Good luck!

**Davidlake** · 08-01-2021, 09:44 AM

Originally Posted by HydroSkreamin

My idea using the alternator field excite wire still applies to a 300X!

It will work either way, just trying to make it with minimal user interface.

Good luck!

I wired my 300SX motors with two switches so that I have control over the power steering running. Since the pump is a continuous running pump, there are times when just idling, that I prefer not to have the pump running and at startup, I want all battery power to the starter.

Two switches wired like Hydro stated works best.

Yes there is a module that makes automatic upon engine startup. I have one if you want it.

**HydroSkreamin** · 08-01-2021, 09:48 AM

Originally Posted by Davidlake

I wired my 300SX motors with two switches so that I have control over the power steering running. Since the pump is a continuous running pump, there are times when just idling, that I prefer not to have the pump running and at startup, I want all battery power to the starter.

When wired properly, they don’t run unless the engine is running. I can leave my key on all day and the power steering doesn’t run unless the engine is running.

I definitely understand that you don’t want the power draw, but the pump shouldn’t be running unless the engine has rpm if wired properly.

Will work either way, just trying to simplify operation.

**Hydrogasm** · 08-02-2021, 08:25 PM

Originally Posted by Davidlake

I have a Skater w/ twin 300XS's. I wired directly to the pump with two switches, similar to the Mercury pump test "switch" controller. As I remember, one wire is positive (power) going to each switch and the two other wires go to each switch. They are required to be switched on with one second of each other to stimulate the pump into "on" status. I liked this arrangement so I could turn off an on the pump with the engines running or powered up and static. I didn't like the pump always on when the keys were in the on position. Check out the Mercury pump switch controller instructions and it should be clear. I just duplicated the switch wiring that it has. You can use the plug end from the Driver module to connect to the pump and splice wires up to the helm where you would mount your switches.

Davidlake
Okay I have decided to go with the two separate rocker switches and it is my understanding that I use the 3 wire (white/ blue and black) connector that plugs into the harness on the pump to wire to the switches, correct? Let me know.
Thanks
Gary

**Davidlake** · 08-04-2021, 07:24 AM

That is how I remember it. White and blue should be positive and black a common negative.

**Hydrogasm** · 08-04-2021, 09:58 PM

Originally Posted by Davidlake

That is how I remember it. White and blue should be positive and black a common negative.

Davidlake

I forgot about the purple wire. The rocker switches that I am using have an LED light in them when they are on. I have attached a photo of the wiring diagram and I plan to use the diagram on the left. I can see that the power coming in-positive and negative go to the top two posts, the white/blue wire goes to the positive post on the bottom, so would the ground wire to the pump go to the other post on the bottom? Do I repeat that for the purple wire? Let me know.
Thanks for your help
Gary

**Hydrogasm** · 03-27-2022, 04:44 PM

Originally Posted by Davidlake

I have a Skater w/ twin 300XS's. I wired directly to the pump with two switches, similar to the Mercury pump test "switch" controller. As I remember, one wire is positive (power) going to each switch and the two other wires go to each switch. They are required to be switched on with one second of each other to stimulate the pump into "on" status. I liked this arrangement so I could turn off an on the pump with the engines running or powered up and static. I didn't like the pump always on when the keys were in the on position. Check out the Mercury pump switch controller instructions and it should be clear. I just duplicated the switch wiring that it has. You can use the plug end from the Driver module to connect to the pump and splice wires up to the helm where you would mount your switches.

Davidlake or others

I wired the pump with two separate switches and used the pump end of the driver module just as you suggested and that worked perfectly. Now I have a leak around the o-ring on the pressure side of the pump when I turn the wheel to active the boost. I have tightened it as much as I dare as I don't want strip the hole in the case. I have attached a couple of photos of the spot where it is leaking. Any suggestions? Let me know.
Thanks
Gary

**Davidlake** · 03-27-2022, 05:30 PM

Just from memory, it looks like you are using the " muffler" on the pressure side intended to quiet the sound of the fluid flow. You might only have an o ring failure. That fitting does not need to be tight with the o ring. Ill check my notes and give you more thoughts. I omitted the muffler as recommended by Paul Everett.

**Hydrogasm** · 03-27-2022, 06:14 PM

Originally Posted by Davidlake

Just from memory, it looks like you are using the " muffler" on the pressure side intended to quiet the sound of the fluid flow. You might only have an o ring failure. That fitting does not need to be tight with the o ring. Ill check my notes and give you more thoughts. I omitted the muffler as recommended by Paul Everett.

Davidlake

No I omitted the the muffler just as Paul suggested. I think it is just the o-ring leaking. Should I just replace the o-ring or leave it and use thread sealant on the fitting? Let me know.
Thanks
Gary