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Thread: Ventura pad
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04-25-2021, 03:29 PM #15000 RPM
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Ventura pad
Last fall when I flipped my boat over (hull up) on the trailer to store it outside for the winter I got my first good look at the bottom. I noticed someone previously filled the pad in so it was flat with what appears to be auto bondo.... why would somebody do this? It should be concave correct? Looks like I got some digging to do to find the original pad. I’m really curious why they did this, what would be the downside of a flat pad on a Ventura?
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04-25-2021, 04:40 PM #2
Bondo has talc in it but fairing compound looks similar. If it’s bondo it needs to go if it’s fairing compound? It can stay but the flatness of the pad? I’m no expert but a hook in the pad works kind of like a spoiler on a car. A spoiler uses air to push the rear of the car down and a hook pushes the bow of the boat down. Most restorations involve flattening the pad and sharpening all edges. This combine with the right engine height results in a zero trim set up and runs flat, and fast. That’s the gyst of it as far as I know.
Mine has a very slight hook, I’m still undecided whether I’m going to flatten it or leave it.Hydrostream dreamin
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04-25-2021, 04:48 PM #35000 RPM
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04-25-2021, 04:50 PM #45000 RPM
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Hopefully transomstand chimes in, he knows his chit about these venturas.
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04-25-2021, 05:01 PM #5
Ventura pad is concave and should have a hook, mine has about 1/2". And I'm not getting into one of those wedge/hook debates because they are stupid. The bottom is not straight and that's all that matters.
This could be a major problem in a resto. Hulls have been ruined by bottom modification geniuses.Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
R.I.P. my Heathen Brother
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04-25-2021, 05:15 PM #65000 RPM
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I really think the guy used auto bondo I’m going to dig it out and find the pad. To me it’s not going to be a “problem” the boat was basically a flower planter when I picked it up, even had a shrub growing out of one of the seats. I’m Balz deep in this and pressing forward.
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LakeFever liked this post
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04-25-2021, 05:28 PM #7
Yea, could be a little late to stop now. Hopefully you can chip it away to the original gel coat. It really needs to be a felony for amateurs to do that to a Stream.
Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
R.I.P. my Heathen Brother
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04-25-2021, 06:00 PM #85000 RPM
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I’ll go about it just like I did when I dug out the core, very carefully when I’m getting close, slow up and don’t poke a hole. I wondered why when i got down to the pad of the grinding stage it was convex... now I know, which leads me to believe that the original pad is intact. Just need to find it... I guessing the guy just roughed up the gel coat so the bondo would stick, it’s that half ass looking.
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04-25-2021, 06:15 PM #9
Pardon re “flatness” I meant straightness plus I did not know the pad was concave but I was referring to fore/aft flat. You can usually use a coned twisted wire brush head on a mini grinder to remove bondo without damaging tin and most likely this would work on fiberglass. I doubt the wire brush would chew into the glass. Might be worth a try you can remove bondo quickly this way
Hydrostream dreamin
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04-25-2021, 07:10 PM #105000 RPM
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LakeFever liked this post
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05-02-2021, 09:15 AM #11
Careful on the wire brush because it actually will eat right through fiberglass. Ask me how I know....
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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05-02-2021, 09:53 AM #12
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rgsauger liked this post
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05-02-2021, 09:56 AM #13
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05-02-2021, 02:02 PM #145000 RPM
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05-02-2021, 02:11 PM #155000 RPM
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Seriously slacking off this weekend. epoxied the top of my t-nuts, tapered the thickened epoxy away from the nuts, just gotta sand the epoxy down a bit then finish glassing the seat box. Also glassed my shifter block front and back, just gotta let it cure then tab it to the hull. I should have got way more done this weekend but it’s awfully nice out today.
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