Hyd steering slop

[RedBusDriver]

Trying to tighten up the steering on my checkmate.
It has factory installed hyd steering,
Quicksilver helm pump cant read the PN
Merc Steering cylinder 8M0050097

The helm was low on fluid when I got the boat this spring, had about an inch of travel on steering cylinder when moving the motor by hand.
I picked up the bleed kit and ran a quart through it with no bubbles at the end, this drastically improved the steering but its still not right.
Over 30 mph feels like I have to spin the wheel at least 180 to get a response.
When on the lift I can turn the wheel all the way to lock and still turn the wheel with some effort.
I had a few drops on the floor under helm pump but degreased it and ran for 30 min today with no signs of leak.
If this wasn't a quick boat I wouldn't care, but I'm just not comfortable at WOT with some trim.
Compared to my pontoon with power hyd steering that wheel has the slightest amount of wiggle and is tight no slop at the motor.

Im leaning towards an issue in the helm pump.
What do you think?

Boat is a 2014 so maybe its time to just replace everything? What's the consensus on pump displacement?

Thanks

[David - WI]

Has air trapped in a line somewhere, would be my guess. Might have to tilt the trailer or even back down a boat ramp or ditch and bleed again? Some of them are a bitch depending on how they routed the lines.

[RedBusDriver]

Has air trapped in a line somewhere, would be my guess. Might have to tilt the trailer or even back down a boat ramp or ditch and bleed again? Some of them are a bitch depending on how they routed the lines.

I bought the bleeding kit that loops the bleed fittings at the cylinder. then you just spin the wheel and it circulates letting air out at the helm. I will bleed it again this week. It might be just me too. this is my first quick outboard, way different that my 290 PQ

[David - WI]

I would look at how your lines are run, if there's a "high spot" it will trap air... I think you would really have to spin the wheel pretty fast to get the air to go "downhill" any distance. I know it doesn't seem like it would be that bad... but I had a hard time getting the air out of mine.

[RedBusDriver]

I would look at how your lines are run, if there's a "high spot" it will trap air... I think you would really have to spin the wheel pretty fast to get the air to go "downhill" any distance. I know it doesn't seem like it would be that bad... but I had a hard time getting the air out of mine.

I will definitely do that. Last 2 pontoons I did hyd steering on were simple but lines went straight down and flat out to motor.
Id be super happy if its just air.

[4Speed]

I purchased the kit from Outboard Specialty Tools as I had a leaking end seal on my Euro hydraulic steering ram. I changed the seal and did the feed & Bleed and everything was fine... < than 1/4 inch travel. After a few passes it felt a little sloppy. I did the feed & bleed again and it took about another 1/3 - 1/2 cup of fluid. I always put a mark on the bottle so I can see how much I added. You have to turn the helm FAST 20-30 times in each direction (my hoses are about 18') and occasionally squeeze the bottle.

[RedBusDriver]

I purchased the kit from Outboard Specialty Tools as I had a leaking end seal on my Euro hydraulic steering ram. I changed the seal and did the feed & Bleed and everything was fine... < than 1/4 inch travel. After a few passes it felt a little sloppy. I did the feed & bleed again and it took about another 1/3 - 1/2 cup of fluid. I always put a mark on the bottle so I can see how much I added. You have to turn the helm FAST 20-30 times in each direction (my hoses are about 18') and occasionally squeeze the bottle.

I have that kit, but I was turning slow. I will do it fast thank you.

[Whaaaaat]

Bleed kit sounds like a good concept, if air can't get in thru the loosened bleed ports around the threads. If that insert a issue, I think it could be, couldn't the steering wheel be removed then hook a drill up to the shaft and really give it a spin?

Maybe another person at the back moving the motor back and forth while your spinning the wheel. There's plenty of places inside that cylinder for tiny bubbles to get trapped.

[4Speed]

Forgot to mention that I did move my motor left to right - port to starboard with the bleed ports open during the purge process.

[RedBusDriver]

I went down to the lake yesterday to bleed the system again. Didn't notice any improvement, but I did find that there is a leak at the helm pump.
I never noticed it before because it would drip on my pants, it was warm enough yesterday that i was in shorts and felt the drops.
Seems to leak under heavy load, 50mph and turning.
Waiting to hear back from my dealer to see what they want to do about it.

[LakeFever]

I’d try some Lucas Transfix in there. It doesn’t take much maybe an ounce or two. Then bleed it like this

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pix1t7ROQ6U

[RedBusDriver]

I’d try some Lucas Transfix in there. It doesn’t take much maybe an ounce or two. Then bleed it like this

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pix1t7ROQ6U

If I dont get the answer I want from dealer, I will end up buying the SeaStar Pro Steering kit hk7514a-3
This is one of those situations for me where it has to be 100% right or im not comfortable.
If it was a 40hp pontoon Id have no problem trying some leak fix stuff.

[LakeFever]

All hydraulics are pistons and rubber seals. All Lucas does is soften up the rubber to help the seals do their job at a price of slightly thicker viscosity which I seriously doubt would cause any issues in the minor amounts I suggested. That said if funds are there new is always better

[XstreamVking]

Where's it leaking from? A fitting under the dash, or from the helm shaft seal?

[Soikku]

For installation I used Loctite 542 pipe glue no leaks