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Thread: It broke
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04-19-2021, 06:45 PM #1Junior Member
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It broke
Not too bad plenty of room to weld a nut on. I'll have it out in the next day or two didn't find any sand just 1 small piece of gravel lots of work to not find any blockage guess it's a piece of mind knowing nuttin in there well see what's under the power head soon
Last edited by "Aquahaulinass"; 04-19-2021 at 07:00 PM.
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David - WI liked this post
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04-19-2021, 07:06 PM #2Screaming And Flying!
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If you liked fighting the head bolts, wait until you take on the powerhead bolts.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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04-19-2021, 09:17 PM #3
Ew..that's a skanky one. lol
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TEXAS20225 liked this post
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04-19-2021, 09:27 PM #4The Historic Photo Master
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04-20-2021, 06:45 AM #5
Make sure you cover the cyl hole/s up very well before welding on that stud. Spatter will stick to your cyl walls and wreck em
Hydrostream dreamin
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04-20-2021, 08:05 AM #6
There's enough there to grab with a Vice Grip. Heat it up with an oxy/acetylene torch and clamp on and turn it right out.
I've always TIGed the nuts on to avoid any spatter issues.'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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04-20-2021, 12:14 PM #7
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tnelsmn, XstreamVking liked this post
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04-21-2021, 05:29 PM #8Junior Member
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It's out and I saved the threads only took me about 4 hours. Ran a tap down all the head bolt holes all's good there next step is to pull the power head and dig all the gravel out of the adapter plate
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04-21-2021, 07:39 PM #9
Nice work! I would suggest a set of thread chasers for future use. Running a tap in existing threads could potentially cut material and weaken them. Thread chases don't cut near as much as a tap will. This shouldn't cause concern in your current situation, just a suggestion for the future. Sets can be found cheap on Amazon.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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04-22-2021, 03:58 AM #10
Ive done plenty of these in cast iron heads and some in Ali.
If they are broken below the surface the stud can be built up with a tig by dropping blobs of weld onto the top of the stud .
Then when the blobs reach the top of the hole a washer is placed over the hole and the pile of blobs are welded to the washer.
Then the nut is welded to the washer.
The washer system would work on that stud.
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04-22-2021, 05:40 PM #11
When you go to re-assemble everything, we usually use Mercury Perfect Seal on the bolts and studs. They stopped making the Perfect seal and now give us Permatex Aviation Sealant which I hate. BRP still makes the Gasket Sealing Compound which is the same as the old Perfect Seal (Unless BRP changed over to the Aviation sealer too.....)
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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"Aquahaulinass" thanked for this post
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04-22-2021, 05:50 PM #12
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04-22-2021, 06:17 PM #13Junior Member
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Thanks I was wondering about some kind of anti seize for reasonable this fall we are moving back to Florida and I plan to mostly run in the intercoastal water way I can't tell you how much I miss the salt water no matter how bad it is for the motor
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04-22-2021, 06:49 PM #14
TefGel is pretty darn good but very expensive. There is an automotive equivalent to the old perfect Seal..... not sure of the brand and name...........
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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