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  1. #16
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    ...stream, consider what color the finished piece will be, when choosing resin and/or gel too. heat distortion rating of product(s) are always offered for free, on they're MSDS sheets, when buying materials. if going dark, we don't want to get into any post curing. that would piss you off a year or two down the road......if'n its going to be white, or any lighter color, disregard.
    Last edited by FUJIMO; 04-01-2021 at 03:13 PM.

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  3. #17
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    It's going on my new F-250 bed. The truck is silver with the black out pkg. I think silver might be ok but black will be a problem. Truck is so tall you can't see it anyway. I saw they have a hi-heat core on the carbon composites site. Also might go with epoxy for more heat resistance? What do you think, vinyl or epoxy? A co. used to make an xcellent alum. top but went belly up. It was a great pc. and I want the same thing. Old cover won't fit new truck, darn.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  4. #18
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    ...since its gunna be silver, vinyl is good. it has a bit higher rated "heat distortion temperature" than gp for sure. but, on a different note, i gotta say, with all your money, i'm surprised you don't just go buy a cover you like at the truck accessory store...lol...
    Last edited by FUJIMO; 04-01-2021 at 06:05 PM.

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  6. #19
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    They don't make the one I want any more. Co. went out of business. It was a lazer lite alum. Only one I have ever had that was really dry. But even with all my vast fortune I can't get them to re-start the factory to make me just one for some reason. So here I am stuck making my own. I'm kinda an eccentric billionaire ya know. Hahaha. Now, if I had your kinda money, I could have a really nice one made out of stainless with a team of hooter's girls that follow me around just to open it for me.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  8. #20
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    You could skin your honeycomb with aluminum or stainless on the outside... glass or carbon fiber on the underside?

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  10. #21
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    Yes. studying on that possibility. Bonding a core like you provided a link to would be nice. But what hi-temp adhesive would bond securely to the alum and core? Alum skin is the best material option from a structural standpoint. But would get very hot here in fla. Easy over 150 deg.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  11. #22
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    They make foam and honeycomb core panels faced in aluminum. Not sure how easy they would crown, or sizes but what your describing can be store bought.
    ANTI40​It's just an idea.

  12. #23
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    There are higher temp rated epoxies.
    I think you make a thinned epoxy resin/acetone wash and scrub the bonding side to remove al oxide... the resin wash keeps air off until you bond/laminate.

  13. #24
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    If bonding aluminum to glass I'd be more concerned with the expansion /contraction rates of the aluminum vs the glass or foam underneath. I'd look for something with some flex. Al moves a lot with heat.
    ANTI40​It's just an idea.

  14. #25
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    usually use poly, I personally think it would be a waste to use the least expensive core and most expensive resin. Id save epoxy for corecell or divynicell. Nidacore is kinda budget core but still good. Ive used it a bunch.

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