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  1. #121
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    Not a lot to update today, just some cabosil to fill the voids and a small patch of 1708 where we discovered a slice from whoever stripped the hull. In the pic on the left halfway down you can see it. Next is to sand the cabosil, add more if needed, and mainly focus on laying 1708 over the remaining hull and begin tabbing and glassing in the transom with 1708 tape

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    Last edited by LakeFever; 08-13-2021 at 02:09 PM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  3. #122
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    Hull is glassed! Transom glassing has begun. Next day we will wrap up transom glass and then we are onto stringers

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  5. #123
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    Look at all that purdy 1708, looks like it laid down really well too.

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  7. #124
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    Ya it went in pretty good. We get better and better at it each time. I now use the whizz like a squeegee and slide the air out. Works slick. The process that works best is prime the area to be laid with a thin coat of vinylester and let cure about an hr up to a couple of days. It stays tacky that long. Then I hand lay the 1708 and work it carefully into the nooks first and then I roll it smooth so there’s no real pockets of air when we wet it out. Then we wet it all out through the top which takes a little time but it’s easy with the whizz. Push out any air and on we go.

    excited to get some stringers in this thing
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  9. #125
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    In case some of you guys wonder what Im talking about with these Whizz rollers these are the things Im using. When I say squeegee if you push hard enough the roller fluff/matt flattens out and you can just smear the roller over the glass like a super smooth, soft, conforming squeegee. The end is covered in fluff/nap to so you can stab these into corners like the transom nooks and I got all the air out easy this way. With a finned bubble roller this would be very difficult. They do soak up about 50ml of resin that gets wasted each time but its a small price to pay for the performance. I haven't used my finned roller once since I got onto these Whizz rollers. Im using the micro fiber ones with the blue stripe rated for all paints. Handles are cheap local paint shop $2ea. I have had a couple rollers drop some of their material off in the glass lays but its easy to pick up while still wet or sand after cure. Minimal and only one roller type did this it might have been a cheapo we have had a few types. I think im using Purdy at the moment, seem good. Heres what they look like


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    To give you guys an idea of time we poured and rolled out those two 52" wide lays in the pics above ( approx 1/2 the hull, probably more) in about an hr. I've been pre-filling 1qt. resin cups and catalyzing one at a time as we go. One Whizz each did both those lays. The back corner pieces we used another two because we took a break in between. Once the surface gets vertical we have to use a paint tray ( bought cheap liners for this ) and dip/roll like paint. Pouring on the vertical surfaces is too sloppy and hard to control but on the flatter areas its easy. One hand to pour, one hand to roll. A couple places in those lays there is 3 overlapping layers of 1708, all done dry, rolled down through with pour technique. FWIW These rollers are slick for any paint jobs where you would want to use a brush these cut application time down a lot and leave a smoother finish. My helper is a painter by trade and says brushes are for cutting in and thats it. Theres a roller or sprayer for everything else LOL
    Last edited by LakeFever; 08-18-2021 at 06:30 AM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  11. #126
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    The function of the finned rollers is to compress the glass down thru the resin layer. What you are doing with the fuzzzy rollers is good with a single layer, but the old fashioned finned rollers are just a little bit better. More than 1 layer and you better go over it with a finned roller to compact the fibers tightly to the surface. JM 2cts.

    83 V-King, Mercury 3.0 back on the transom
    Stop wearing the face bags people. Don't be a sheep!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
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  12. #127
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    That sure does make sense. We are installing these lays dry though, and forcing the resin through and once wet? We stop. These lays are taking quite a bit less resin than my method before of pre wet surface with brush, lay glass, tab with brush til wet, finned roller finish. With the Whizz we are using approx 25% less resin overall. Keep in mind I had laid all of two piece of small roving glass 20+ years ago repairing a snowmobile cowl and that was the sum of my experience before we began this boat restoration. We have improved a lot since we began so that could add to the fact we are using less resin now.

    I do keep track and as a guide it takes us 1.5ml of resin per square inch of 1708 with the brush tabbing and finned roller method vs 1.2-1.3ml of resin per square inch with the whizz. Those numbers sound about right?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  13. #128
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    Your looking good. Fantastic laminate it looks like
    1973 Viper
    1978 Viking

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  15. #129
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    Thanks much we are pleased with it so far. I spoke with my helper ( he aint here today ) and he did say it was hard work smooshing through the three layer section with the whizz and that is our first attempt so far at more than one or two so when we do the transom which will be more I will definitely fin roller over it. Thanks for the guidance Xstream, RJ, Tony and all you guys I really appreciate it.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  17. #130
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    Got some transom glass in yesterday as well as some 4" tape under the outside stringer path. I fin rolled over the lays after whizz and on the transom especially i got a darker look so it does push the mat down just as Xstream said should be done. Thanks for that catch. I wanted to go up and right over the transom and over the outside skin in one go but with the funky curve to wrap and the sides and the base lip, i decided it would be too complex so I lipped off the back and will be going up and over on another lay. Going for 4-5 layers over the transom inside. It feels so solid already, which is awesome

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  19. #131
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    looking good. I don't think you need that many layers on the inside. I did 1 layer across it all but then with the knees and tabbing to the hull and the deck, you cover it again and even again where the bolts will be. But again, it will be bulletproof and will make it till we are all long gone and dead!
    1973 Viper
    1978 Viking

  20. #132
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    I dont know why some of my posts have those extra pics attached from previous posts? Weird. I cant seem to delete them either lol. Oh well

    Today we laid in the final piece of 1708 over the core at the back where it ties into the transom. We also laid one piece of 1708 up and over the cap on both sides. We primed the transom skin with the resin from our first session so we could tack the 1708 over as I have mentioned before. Works good to get the sheets laid out flat and pre rolled before adding resin. Going to lay in one more layer over the entire inside of the transom and that'll be it for complete lays. We will add more tabs after we get the stringers sorted out and support the bolt areas with more layers. Speaking of stringers, we are going to make some tomorrow. Turning a corner here

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    Hydrostream dreamin

  21. #133
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    Looking downright spiffy and tight....Very neat glass work..

    83 V-King, Mercury 3.0 back on the transom
    Stop wearing the face bags people. Don't be a sheep!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  23. #134
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    Xstream thank you, we feel like we won a prize ribbon seeing you say that because your boat as well as Tonys, RJ's and Outasites are major inspirations for us. We have referenced you guys builds many times over during our layup plans.

    Speaking of layup, we are at a bit of a crossroads here with respect to the stringers and the knees specifically. We doubled up the core in the pad, and we used 5/8" core so the stringers are only going to be 3" high which is fine im sure it will be strong enough but the knees off the transom we feel might be not so ideal being 1/2" thick terminating into 3" height plus it does make fabricating the fuel tank quite a bit more involved. So we took another good look at your knees Xstream and we really like how open the fuel tank area is this way, plus we then get to use the 3/4" for the knees and if we place them in a similar layout as yours we can build and fit a 42 Gallon fuel cel thats square which is appealing on time.

    With the Coosa being a wide span and no center support we are thinking to add in 4 total layers of 1708 across the transom and 1 layer of 1808. We feel this along with the above floor Xstream style knees will be more than enough support for whatever motor we end up hanging off the back of this thing. Plus as mentioned this does make the fuel tank fab a lot easier ( faster to finish too )

    What say you guys?
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  25. #135
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    42 gals is too big imo, I have 28 gals and it's perfect for me. I also ran a penske 1.5''x 3'' thick beam on edge across the transom from the sides of the knees. Fits between the engine bolts. up fairly hi to not get in the way of the tank. Tank actually rests against the trans at the bottom. Made some slats of 1/2'' penske in to give air space under the tank also.
    Last edited by XstreamVking; 08-20-2021 at 12:09 PM.

    83 V-King, Mercury 3.0 back on the transom
    Stop wearing the face bags people. Don't be a sheep!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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