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Thread: 1979 Viking build
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06-24-2021, 08:13 PM #91
We’ve been working on getting the core prepped for glassing. Core bond is sticky stuff and gums up the sand paper very quickly so anyone contemplating using it for fairing compound in lieu of cabosil peanut butter be advised it takes a lot of paper to sand it all. It is tough product with excellent adhesion to all things I’ve tried.
We decided to seal the topside of the core with vinyester, let cure, then fare in the rest of the core with corebond and strips of csm with gp resin so we can go wet on wet and not have to sand the core bond. Then cover with 1708 using vinyester. We worked the edges of the core as smooth as we could to make glass transitions smooth and strong. We don’t want any hard edges for water to sit.
Last edited by LakeFever; 06-26-2021 at 09:25 AM.
Hydrostream dreamin
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tnelsmn liked this post
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06-25-2021, 09:35 AM #92
Project is coming along great! The extra material and time will be worth it when you hit that first wake and say to yourself "damn that's solid".
I had ideas of finishing my stream in a few weeks.....life, work, and of course all the added fixes and improvements, I finally rigged the merc a year and a half later.
Keep those photos comin1977 Hydrostream Vector 2.5 Promax
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06-26-2021, 07:44 PM #93
Alright today felt like a turning point. It was by far the most successful glass session we’ve had yet and it was a big one. We did 9’ x 50” of 1708 over the core in one go. One full gallon of vinylester to do it. I had been doing some research on stretching out the working time of resin and one guy suggested refrigerating the resin so we did that for 6hours it made the resin quite thick. We catalyzed at 1.2% and it worked great. We had about five minutes after we wrapped it up before the resin kicked.
a couple of comments that really blew my mind. First, we used the gp poly resin with csm and core bond wet on wet like I mentioned earlier to fair in the edges of the core and save sanding time. This was my first time using poly resin for laying in glass and it’s way different than the vinylester. Mainly after it kicks its dry and I mean dry to touch not tacky at all. The vinylester stays super tacky for at least a week after I lay in some and for the first day it’s extremely sticky. We primed the core yesterday with it and today we laid the big sheet of 1708 down and if you pull it back up most of the csm stays on it for an idea of how tacky it is. This is why pre priming the core was so helpful for this big lay up. We put the 1708 mat down dry and this leads to the second major mind blowing event. I mixed the resin in a clean empty windshield washer jug and poured the resin directly onto the mat and spread it out with whizz rollers and man this is the only way to go! The whizz rollers spread so fast and do a far better job at rolling out any air bubbles than finned rollers do. I highly recommend you try this in the future if any of you are planning on glassing anything large. Huge advantage with the whiZz. We also ground a radius onto the edge of the core where it will meet with the floor so we could tie in the 1708 in an over/under braid. I added a close up pic so you guys can see how hard this would be to roll out typically with a finned roller but with the whizz it was actually easy. The first pic is the csm with poly resin and 6” strips of csm over the core bond in the center in front of the pad and the sides of the core.
Happy with today’s results. Here’s some picsLast edited by LakeFever; 06-26-2021 at 07:56 PM.
Hydrostream dreamin
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tnelsmn, Hippie459MN liked this post
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06-26-2021, 09:54 PM #94
Looks great, Lake! Moving right along with it.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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06-27-2021, 04:20 AM #95
Thanks Tony, we have a day or two this week to do some more so we should be able to get the rest of the core covered and start on the transom glass.
I’ve been thinking to add a second layer of 1708 over the core as well. Not up the sides like this big one just up to the edge of the core bond. Really want this to last and realllllly want this to be water tight inside as well as outHydrostream dreamin
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06-27-2021, 11:06 PM #96
I was using 8" 1708 "tape" as the local supply house called it, to tab in my stringers and that ended up coming a ways up the sides of the core. That also completely covered the area between the stringers with a full second layer of 1708.
There will be more glass going over your core in the future, just saying in case that thought hadn't crossed your mind. It never did mine until I was laying it down.'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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06-28-2021, 04:45 AM #97
I appreciate the input thank you. I was thinking of two things; reinforcing the glass over the core for bedding the stringers as well as more glass means stronger. That’s really all it is, and instinct more than any engineering aspect. My gut says that it’s most likely plenty strong as it is now but another layer will certainly make it good to go at a small weight penalty. Haven’t decided for sure yet, I’ll update of course as I go.
speaking of stringers two overlapping tabs is enough? Cap the top or no need because we are core bonding them to the floor?Last edited by LakeFever; 06-28-2021 at 04:51 AM.
Hydrostream dreamin
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06-28-2021, 09:16 AM #98
So this is what I did. I put 1708 over my core in the pad, then bedded my stringers in and did some 1708 over the core on the outside of the stringers and up to just before where the floor would sit on the hull and another lay of 1708 in the middle of the stringers and up the stringers as well and then some biax 12 oz up and over the stingers before i put the floor down. When I put the floor down some more 1708 that went up the sides of the hull where the floor sits and that 12 inch wide strip covered a second layer where the core ends and hull starts under the floor. Should be plenty strong. I glassed the bottom of the floor and installed, then glassed the top side with cloth and some more 1708 tape on the top side where the hull and floor come together on the top side of the floor. I did not go back in with the air tank, it can sink! haha. I was going to but skipped it as it was easier to just do it the way I did and it is lighter. I did a longer taller stringer up the keel of the boat that connects to the bulkhead that the main stingers connect to under the floor. I ran it for about 2 full summers and still have not finished the floor and interior with any floor paint or whatever yet as I wanted to see what would crack if anything. I did have some of the front outside stringer pull and separate some from the hull after a big ass wave I hit at about 85 but it was the original chopper gun glass. I fixed that and glassed some more all along the outside stringers up and over and it has been all good. I will be painting the floor in a few weeks to finally say it is done, or done enough for me! And remember to connect the top cap outside stringers to the transom. Many are not and are about 1-2 inches short. I built a big knee to connect it all to the transom and floor. Now once I loaded my pics I think I over did this post but since it is all there just let me know if you want me to delete any of this as it feels like too much to post on anothers thread!
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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06-28-2021, 09:25 AM #99
Awesome RJ! Thank you I really appreciate the input. More pics and info the better far as im concerned
Hydrostream dreamin
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rjdubiel liked this post
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06-28-2021, 06:37 PM #100
Thats a good point about reinforcing before bedding stringers. I forgot that I laid up 4" 1708 tape above the core before setting the stringers to give more strength. Dissipating impact loads on the stringers over thicker glass above the core could prolong the life of the core. I think the plan to lay over a second time is a good idea. As you stated the sacrifice of a few extra pounds in worth it for longevity and strength.
Tony.'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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LakeFever, XstreamVking liked this post
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06-28-2021, 07:33 PM #101
I’m thinking about laying 1808 down for the second layer.... more directions to spread the load right?
Hydrostream dreamin
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tnelsmn liked this post
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07-02-2021, 04:55 PM #102
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tnelsmn liked this post
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07-06-2021, 09:26 AM #103
you see how you went up and out with the core up the freeboard and core is in front of where the floor sits, that is perfect. I nosed into a big ass wakeboard wake yesterday and my hull cracked right where the core ended by my right foot when driving. If I would have done it like you did it would not have broke. Needless to say this week I will be adding core like you did in front of the floor and up the freeboard of the hull on each side! I added a picture of the inside of the crack after I ground to the core on the outside of the hull. you can see the crack in the epoxy but the glass is still intact but damaged. But one layer of glass is not enough! I suggest 2 layers of 1708 or 1808 where there are transitions from core to hull, or stringer to hull, or floor to hull.
Last edited by rjdubiel; 07-09-2021 at 09:52 AM.
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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07-06-2021, 09:32 AM #104
I was going to come here and show the same thing, RJ. Starting to think about adding more to mine over winter.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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07-06-2021, 09:46 AM #105
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