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  1. #61
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    Transom outer skin is 3/16” right at the top measured with calipers but it is thicker in the middle so it’s around a 1/4” for the most part I’m sure. Don’t think I’m going to add another layer of 1708 but ya never know. I made some unistrut clamps today for this. Seems to hold well. I have a piece of 3/4” plywood attached to the cradle that is the same angle as the transom so I can clamp it flat and strong.

    I don’t have a lot of time for the boat this week so it will be a bit slow until next week I should have more time available.

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    Last edited by LakeFever; 04-07-2021 at 03:46 PM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  3. #62
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    Looking good, I was slacking and peeked at your build, looks like I better get a move on or your gonna pass me up.

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  5. #63
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    Finally got back at this for a few hours today. In some ways these delays are helpful because it gives me more time to think and plan and in other ways the delays drive me nuts. Took about three hours of messing around finding all the tools and materials getting them set up ready to start laying up stuff again. So the thinking is with the coosa transom I really don’t want any chance for issues so we added a third layer of 1708 inside the transom skin and will be adding a fourth on the outside as well as a layer or two of csm for finishing. Might be overkill but it makes me feel safer about this process.

    We also bonded two of the three coosa layers together today using a 1/4” v notch trowel and we did just like Xstream advised. We used 40 grit on a block and scuffed diagonally in both directions to rough the coosa surface and then used air and blew it out really well. We spread the core bond on both panels first flat by pushing it hard into the coosa then one sheet horizontal notches and the other vertical notches. Placed the two coosa panels on a heavy table with parchment and a sheet of 3/4” ply with concrete blocks over for weight. The core bond didn’t compress as much as I thought it would but it really seems to bond very well. Tomorrow we will add the third layer into the coosa layup and then bond it into the hull. Felt great to get back to this
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails E3699205-9350-4925-AFFD-1A6CBECDAA37.jpg   BA18BCF2-EA1A-4938-B23D-FE01512D5222.jpeg   8970C3E8-35B2-4899-B636-6E0B20E00967.jpeg  
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  7. #64
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    We got ourselves a transom! I also laid in another 5’ section of 1708 in the front floor area where the damage was to the hull. I was going to do the whole thing but after some of you said it wasn’t nec I decided against it but today I just couldn’t resist because this area seems prone to damage from other resto threads I have seen so I beefed it up and it looks good for core now.

    we also did a test with the core bond over my very first test pieces of csm and 1708 on plywood. I did no prep to the old glass or the plywood I bonded down. Just one coat of core bond and pressed by hand the pieces of plywood down and I could not pry them apart no matter what I tried. I snapped both pieces of plywood apart in the glue and the core bond held. I was shocked that the grip was that high especially with no prep.

    that’s all for now hope to get some more done next week. It’s nice to finally be building some of this thing instead of repairing.
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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  9. #65
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    Looks good! Some days I wish I added another 3/4" to my transom. But I think my giant knees will pick up where more wood leaves off. Plus I'm not going crazy with power.

    You're doing very quality work from what I can see.

    Tony.

  10. #66
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    With plywood dual 3/4 is plenty. With the coosa being so light and much easier to compress the further the span and thicker the glass the less leverage the bolts will have on the coosa so this is why I did it. It’s two layers 3/4 and one layer 1/2 in the middle of the two.

    Thanks for the kind words on the build. We are trying to do our best but this is my first boat resto so it’s been a learning curve. Goal is to have a strong safe fun boat that will last as long as I do lol
    Hydrostream dreamin

  11. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    We are trying to do our best but this is my first boat resto so it’s been a learning curve. Goal is to have a strong safe fun boat that will last as long as I do lol
    I am 100% in the same boat. Pun intended haha.

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  13. #68
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    Got some core in today! I can see why it’s called core bond and not transom bond. While I was quite pleased with the transom bond and install the corebond with the gp primed balsa core is really incredible. The core bond squeezed up between the balsa and I faired in the edges with the corebond all in one session and its a completely void free pad now. Very slick product. Some pics for you guys

    averep thanks for the tip priming the balsa spread open over a barrel. We did it lengthwise over a piece of pvc pipe and the wide side over a barrel and brushed resin in between all the pieces. Worked great!

    Edit- added a pic of the hull after all glass repairs done before core
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    Last edited by LakeFever; 05-01-2021 at 07:02 PM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  15. #69
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    Getting back to work tomorrow and wondering about the core and stringers? Initially I was thinking lay in all the core, glass it, then do the stringers. Now that the core is going in it looks like it will be a very hard edge to wrap the 1708 around from the sides of the core down to the core in the pad unless i use a lot of thickened resin which will make the stringer bedding afterwards, not ideal. What do you guys suggest here? I was thinking maybe grind the edge of core where it meets the pad to a rounder shape but worry about thinning the core down especially close to the pad? Or should I lay a piece of 1708 or two over the pad now as it is in above pics and lay the stringers on top of that at the edge of pad and then lay the side core up against the side of the stringers? Then glass that all in? Am I making sense? LOL lots of ways to do this, advice would be nice.

    I could add a second layer of core in the pad like Tnels did that will bring the hard to cover edge up making it a lot easier. Hmmmm
    Last edited by LakeFever; 05-07-2021 at 02:51 PM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  16. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    Getting back to work tomorrow and wondering about the core and stringers? Initially I was thinking lay in all the core, glass it, then do the stringers. Now that the core is going in it looks like it will be a very hard edge to wrap the 1708 around from the sides of the core down to the core in the pad unless i use a lot of thickened resin which will make the stringer bedding afterwards, not ideal. What do you guys suggest here? I was thinking maybe grind the edge of core where it meets the pad to a rounder shape but worry about thinning the core down especially close to the pad? Or should I lay a piece of 1708 or two over the pad now as it is in above pics and lay the stringers on top of that at the edge of pad and then lay the side core up against the side of the stringers? Then glass that all in? Am I making sense? LOL lots of ways to do this, advice would be nice.

    I could add a second layer of core in the pad like Tnels did that will bring the hard to cover edge up making it a lot easier. Hmmmm
    I did it just like you were initially thinking to do it, lots of thickened resin for the radius. It is a pain in the but especially if you add all the fingers that branch off the main stringers like I did. So far the happiest day of my restore was being done with the stringers, it was the most tedious time consuming part of the project so far. What are you going to use for the stringers?

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  18. #71
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    I’m using 1/2” coosa for stringers and floor. I slept on it and my thinking is to either add the second layer of core or glass over the pad core tabbed 2” above and then bed the stringers and the side pieces of core in at the same time with corebond. I did some test fitting yesterday I can make a really clean tight fit if I go this way. Today’s boat work got pushed aside once again which is unfortunate/fortunate because it leaves me more time to figure out the best method.


    More suggestions welcome
    Hydrostream dreamin

  19. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    I’m using 1/2” coosa for stringers and floor. I slept on it and my thinking is to either add the second layer of core or glass over the pad core tabbed 2” above and then bed the stringers and the side pieces of core in at the same time with corebond. I did some test fitting yesterday I can make a really clean tight fit if I go this way. Today’s boat work got pushed aside once again which is unfortunate/fortunate because it leaves me more time to figure out the best method.


    More suggestions welcome
    Don’t feel bad, my boat work got pushed aside also because of this new fishing boat I bought.

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  21. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    Or should I lay a piece of 1708 or two over the pad now as it is in above pics and lay the stringers on top of that at the edge of pad and then lay the side core up against the side of the stringers? Then glass that all in?
    If you don't want a second layer of core in the pad I think this is the best way. I copied "Out-a-Site"s factory built comp hull that had doubled up core in the pad. I knew mine would end up on the heavy side so I liked the idea of more support in the pad to carry the extra 150lbs. Also, the second layer of core in the pad gave the outer core a nice stop to rest against when bonding. The stringers would do the same if you go that route, but that might not even be a problem with core bond.

    I did build a sample part using leftover material. Layup as follows(1708, CSM, 1/2" balsa, 1708) the second layer of core was laid up (CSM, 1/2" balsa, 1708). There is a considerable difference is stiffness.

    From the amateur builder point of view, I liked the idea when I laid 1708 over the core I could do one continuous piece. So each strand of the weave would extend from the first chine completely across the core to the other first chine. I'm my head thats stronger than multiple pieces of 1708. But I could be totally off base. And either way is still going to be considerably stronger than the factory built it. Heck, mine had just chopper gun over most the core.

    Tony.

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  23. #74
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    I’m using 5/8” balsa so doubling that up seems a bit much. I’m thinking the route you suggested is sounding best so far because I can lay the stringers and the core in together with core bond and it will be void free and easier to glass up after. I’ll end up with a couple layers of 1708 over the pad this way as well which sounds comforting.

    thanks for the info I’ll ruminate over it all lol
    Last edited by LakeFever; 05-08-2021 at 09:27 PM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  25. #75
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    We got back to it today for half a day. Got more core in and we came up with a good plan to fit the core all in before the stringers. I reviewed a few build threads including outasites and my main concern when building this was to keep it as water safe as possible hence the coosa and vinylester. Being that the balsa core is the only wood going into this build I want to seal it in glass before adding stringers so that’s what we are doing. We also faired in the transom some more. One more thin coat of corebond and the transom will be ready for glass. I really like the core bond it sticks very well and is hard yet flexible when cured.


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    Hydrostream dreamin

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