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Thread: 1979 Viking build
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03-28-2021, 07:54 AM #46
We laid up csm in thin areas a few layers or more. Instead of running two layers of 1708 over the bottom we came up with an overlapping system that put three layers of 1708 over the spots I was worried about and only one layer over the area that will be under the core. We also tailed ( great tip thanks xstream ) all the 1708 at the seams before laying over more except for the two main pieces under the core area because we overlapped those 4” and thought it was good. For whatever reason this hull seems to have the best quality existing glass in the pad area and under the core. It’s really thick there I drilled a tiny test hole it was almost 1/4” thick with two layers of roving. We think this hull may have been restored once before.
it’s a relief to have this part of the build done. It was the only part of the process we were scratching our heads over. Now that we have a sound hull I hope next weekend to be laying in core and starting on the transom. We are going to lay a few layers of 1708 on the inside of the transom area before putting coosa in. I have an interlocking plan for tabbing the 1708 into the bottom and sides that should really strengthen up that area.Last edited by LakeFever; 03-28-2021 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Couple pics along the way
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03-28-2021, 10:04 AM #47Screaming And Flying!
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Looking good man..
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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LakeFever thanked for this post
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03-30-2021, 04:12 PM #48
Had a few hours today to lay in more glass. Not being totally sure how to lay over the existing holes I ground a smooth bevel about 2" radius around each hole halfway through existing glass and laid in three layers of CSM each one extending out an inch or two and sanded them now flush with existing prior to laying in fresh 1708. Did the same with the transom which is getting 1708 next session. Starting to get the hang of this now
Last edited by LakeFever; 03-30-2021 at 04:15 PM.
Hydrostream dreamin
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03-30-2021, 06:38 PM #49
Looks great! I almost miss this part. Instead I'm over here pulling out what little hair I have left waiting for parts from other people while ice is going off local lakes.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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03-30-2021, 07:07 PM #50
Trade ya
In all seriousness I understand what your saying. This is now fun to do and I want to work on it everyday even when I can’t. I have always loved to work but not always loved the work I had to do. This is chosen work and I’m lovin every minute of it. Hope to be laying core this weekendHydrostream dreamin
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04-01-2021, 11:10 AM #51
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04-01-2021, 01:33 PM #52
I only did one on mine. Then used CSM to bond transom wood to hull. I did two full layers of 1708 on the inside though, with 2 overlapping layers tabbing in first. It's beyond my pay grade, but I think 3 would be overkill.
Looks like you're doing very good clean glass work!'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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04-01-2021, 04:32 PM #53
Thanks much! Well we did two so two it is. We are basically taking the approach of when in doubt? Add more glass. That said we don’t want to waste time doing what’s not necessary so I guess we will stop at two and that means tomorrow we are laying in the transom! First time we get to play with the coosa. Thinking two layers of 3/4” and one of 1/2”
Just realized we will also be using core bond for the first time tomorrow tooLast edited by LakeFever; 04-01-2021 at 04:35 PM. Reason: Core bond
Hydrostream dreamin
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04-02-2021, 04:08 PM #54
Got the transom pieces cut and fit today and that’s as much time as we had. Plus I wasn’t sure if I should drill relief holes in the coosa because we are using corebond. Supplier said use a 1/4” v notch trowel, no holes, and go easy on weight he said 20psi was plenty.
we cut three layers of coosa; 2x 3/4” and 1x 1/2”. Going to laminate the 1/2” in the middle. What say you guys about relief holes yay or nay?Last edited by LakeFever; 04-02-2021 at 04:25 PM.
Hydrostream dreamin
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04-03-2021, 08:51 AM #55Screaming And Flying!
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Won't hurt a thing. May release some trapped air. JM2cts. You prob have a 1/4'' of glass on the trans face to take the load of the engine and jack plate. Should be good. The transom face spreads the load from the engine and jackplate forces. Also spreads the load from the bolts clamping forces. All this load spreading is preventing any compression of the softer coosa core. Make it the same on the inside where the bolts go thru.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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04-03-2021, 09:12 AM #56
Thanks that’s helpful I might as well drill then if there’s no loss. I wonder if I should toss a third layer of 1708 on the transom skin before laying in the coosa? I was also thinking to add sleeves for the Jack plate bolt holes to take some load off the coosa. It’s so light it’s kinda freaky thinking of what power it has to hang onto
Hydrostream dreamin
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04-03-2021, 10:23 AM #57Screaming And Flying!
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After 2 lays plus original what do you have for thickness? 1/4'' is usually good, more wont hurt. I don't sleeve the bolts or use alum plates to mount anything. Lg washers on the bolts is enough. Don't need to crank the trans bolts either. Use a tq wrench tp get them even. 20-30#'s is usually enough. Check them again later for a re-tq.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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04-03-2021, 11:52 AM #58
I’m not sure how thick it is I’ll have to measure it. Good tip re torque spec I know it doesn’t take much but I wasn’t sure on torque. That’s good to know
Hydrostream dreamin
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04-03-2021, 08:28 PM #59
Lake, man it's so cool to see your build starting to come together as mine is wrapping up. I love these rebuild threads on this site!
As for checking torque I just found this product being used by one of the airplane builders I follow on YouTube (Mike Patey) great page to follow. It's a seal/indicator showing if something has turned. It doesn't hold anything like lock tight, just shows if it moves. I have it on all the steering component hardware as well as engine mounts. Goes on kinda like that cake decoration icing you buy in a tube. Drys in an hour and cures in 24. Resists vibration, heat, cold, etc. Boeing uses it during assembly. Lots of color options to choose from too, I grabbed blue to match the boat.
So now I have a quick reference to look at when doing a pre launch walk around of the boat.
https://www.itwprobrands.com/product/cross-check
Tony'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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04-04-2021, 06:55 AM #60
I enjoy the build threads too. I’m glad to finally be offering up some entertaining content after years of endless questions LOL. That dykem seal cracker looks cool and handy I’ll add that to my process for certain things for sure, thanks for that. Hope to get back at it a little bit tomorrow. At least get the transom block laminated and then hopefully lay it in the hull the following day
Hydrostream dreamin
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