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Thread: 1979 Viking build
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03-14-2021, 05:14 PM #315000 RPM
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Looking good, almost time to let the beatings begin!
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LakeFever thanked for this post
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03-14-2021, 06:26 PM #32
No i don’t think I went further really in terms of design I was heavily influenced by yours. The key difference is I need to be able to move the cradle in and out of the shop as well as lift the boat in and out without compromising it. This is where the differences are. I might make it into a storage cradle after the build is done.
There will be plenty of people around this thing too so I had to make sure it was fool proof in the sense that if you drop the boat in, it fits spot on and there’s no shimming etc nec. Plus I could see more hulls being done in this thing I have a few friends with vkings and Valero’s.
I’m really wanting to get started laying this thing up though. Been hard to get many days on it so far. We thought we had more time but work stuff got busy.Hydrostream dreamin
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tnelsmn liked this post
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03-17-2021, 02:25 PM #33
First piece of glass is in! Little single layer CSM patch along with a few test pieces on the bench. Went smooth we mixed in 2.5% mekp at 65 degrees and it took about an hour to mostly cure, about 30 mins to gel up. I put some parchment and packing tape under the hole and tabbed in the patch over worked slick. I also left about 1/2" of the derakane Vinylester in the mixing cup to see how strong the resin alone would be and wow! This derakane is TOUGH stuff. Even smashing it with a hammer wont break it. Very impressed.
Adhesion also seems to be extremely strong I could not pry any from the dirty unprepped wood I tried some CSM and 1708 test pieces on. This whole first round makes me feel a lot more comfortable about the product and getting more serious with the glassing the hull this coming weekend.
I also have to say the smell is really nice, it smells like finely refined bondo for lack of a better description. I had a body shop eons ago and that old familiar scent was a welcome thing here. Not sure how others feel about it but I really like it. I added a pic of how good the adhesion of this Derakane is. I had a little on my finger and thumb after tabbing and when it began to kick, well look at the pic and see. So fine and so much grip. Impressed so far with it
Hydrostream dreamin
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03-17-2021, 04:30 PM #34Screaming And Flying!
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Derakane is a hi quality vinyl hybrid. Really intended as a chemical resistant product. I made salt and chlorine holding tanks with it long ago for a water treatment plant. It does smell different than reg vinyl or poly. A bispherenol based resin. Not much styrene in it.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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03-17-2021, 05:51 PM #35
That’s exactly what the sales rep said. Made to bond to anything including concrete for commercial use with extreme chemical resistant properties. Marine use is merely a bonus. I figure it like this; I have this chance to build this thing so I wanted the best materials I could get to make it all that more worthwhile. I really went back and forth with the core though. Ended up choosing balsa and feel it will be good. Time will tell
Hydrostream dreamin
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03-17-2021, 10:13 PM #36
First piece of glass going in is a good feeling!
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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LakeFever liked this post
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03-18-2021, 05:45 PM #37
How many layers should I lay in for hull holes? I have csm and 1708
Hydrostream dreamin
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03-21-2021, 11:19 AM #38
Would still like to know any thoughts on how much glass to lay in before core. We were thinking two layers of 1708 in the core and pad area and one layer of 1708 over the entire hull. Yesterday the plan was to do most of this but we had some sanding to do first. We started off by giving it a good wipe down with acetone. Then we moved to sanding and it's quite a surprise how once you start sanding in the core/pad area there was air pockets and cabosil in places quite thick and some scratches from whoever removed it we had to feather out etc. Kept finding lots of places that needed more sanding and grinding which took a lot longer to clean up and prep than I thought it would. We did get it all done and the entire inside of the hull has been hit with 26 grit and is ready for the lay up. We started in the thin spots and the holes in the transom with a single layer of CSM and that was as far as we got yesterday. Going to sand those down and add another couple of layers of CSM over those spots before moving onto 1708.
Fire away if you see anything or think of anything Im doing wrong.
Last edited by LakeFever; 03-21-2021 at 11:24 AM.
Hydrostream dreamin
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03-21-2021, 07:15 PM #39
I vacuum bagged my core to 12 oz glass with thick resin as well. But if hand layup 1708 should be good at one layer. One layer over the top. Go twice on transitions and ya good. Top side of the core needs to be the strong side, water pushing up into the hull. Anyway, that's my opi
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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LakeFever thanked for this postXstreamVking liked this post
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03-22-2021, 08:37 AM #40
Thanks that’s pretty much my thoughts on why I was going to add a second laying under the core and pad area. I’ve owned enough of these to see where they chip off underneath and it’s at the edges of the pad and chines mostly. So unless anyone has other to say RJ has the call two layers of 1708 in all the edges and then core. Then glass over top 1708 with csm on top for finish. Anywhere that looks like a good spot to add more I will. I’d rather add fifty pounds to the hull to make it wake board wave proof than not. Want it to last
Hydrostream dreamin
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03-22-2021, 08:57 AM #41
I would not bother with 2 layers of 1708 on the bottom side of the core to be clear. One layer under core and one over the top with 2 layers at the edges and on the transition up the stringers. On my vking I ran it light last year and beat it good on some windy days (never got around to finishing, put the motor on and ran it all year!!). None of my work gave way. I only did 12 oz biax under the core, then one layer of 1708 over the core. My floor was 1/2 ply with 6oz cloth on the under side and over the top side once bedded into the hull. I wanted to see if the floor to hull area would crack at all or separate but it did not. So this week/next week I will put a 10 inch strip of 1708 at the floor/hull area and up under the bow where the core meets the hull. My hull is very thin so up where your feet are under the bow the hull is flexible on the sides where the core ends and I was going to stiffen it up some with 1708.
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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03-22-2021, 09:06 AM #42Screaming And Flying!
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Build it how you intend to use it. I built mine stout and don't regret it at all. Add glass where you think it needs it. Cover the edges of the 1708 with some torn mat. (called tailing, adds shear strength) I have jumped mine and ran some rough water. No cracks...Your plan sounds fine.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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03-22-2021, 09:32 AM #43
Awesome tips thank you! Tailing will be done on all 1708. You guys rock
Hydrostream dreamin
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03-22-2021, 10:27 PM #44
My boat got about 3-4 layers of CSM in the patches, full single layer of 1708 across entire bottom after patching.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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LakeFever thanked for this post
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03-23-2021, 06:02 AM #45
My one strake in particular port side where the floor sits was sliced with the grinder right to the gel. I feathered it out so there was no hard edge and put two layers of Csm and yesterday I ran a single 9” wide strip of 1708 over that. I was surprised at how much more resin the 1708 took vs the csm. It’s at least 4-5 times more. Anyways I will tail the 1708 with csm and to add balance I will do the same 1708 strip down the port side. Once cured I will feather this all in and do another layer of 1708 over the whole bottom. Maybe overkill but it’s making me feel better about the build.
one thing I have already noticed is the derakane is considerably harder when grinding vs the existing glass. Makes feathering a little tricky but I like the strength gain
I really appreciate all you guys input. I’ll update some pics soonLast edited by LakeFever; 03-23-2021 at 06:05 AM.
Hydrostream dreamin
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tnelsmn liked this post
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