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Thread: 1979 Viking build
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02-19-2021, 07:04 PM #16
Started on the cradle today and ran into a bit of gridlock. We measured carefully with plumb bobs at a few stages side to side on the hull. Then we separated the cap, washed and vac’d the glass, and braced accross to our measurement dimensions. The thing that stopped us was if I lift on the transom even a little bit the entire hull flexes and shifts, a LOT.
Is there a drawing or some dimensions I can reference so I get the cradle cut to correct spec?
Hydrostream dreamin
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02-20-2021, 12:35 AM #17Member
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Hello Lake, to get your hull back in specs, use a waterlevel to get everything on the money. mark a location under the strake at the rear of the hull, install a screw about 4" down from the edge of starboard strake, now go to the other side an use the water level to tell you where to mount the next screw, under the port strake now you just shim to get the 2 areas level, the pins are now level and you can measure up with a ruler, add reduce shims as needed. Now at the transom measure down from known marks/hull features, end of strakes, side chimes, etc. Mark one side 4'down as a reference point than transfer to other side an repeat, install screw where pin becomes level, not just measure .distance to have it perfectly level, straps can be used to help hold down area but don get crazy on the load. Any point that has a matching point on the other side can be used as a level point to insure no twist, Get a 3/8 clear hose and fill to 1' from each end, take your time an hull will be spot on ,old boatbuilder trick but is the only way to good, cheap and accurate, John also when time, roll your core on half barrel to open it u for good access, also grind coosa and then blow out the pores[full of dust] when applying first coat of resin use a spreader the push resin into the cores to brake the mechanical tension, it will improve your bonding. Its easier than said and works great, I use this system always, John
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02-20-2021, 07:50 AM #18
That’s excellent advice thank you! The only thing I’m a little unsure of is the screws? You suggest a screw through the hull into the cradle? Or through the hull only to use as a reference point? Can I not put a marker dot to reference and avoid the screw or am I missing something?
the balsa over a barrel to improve resin saturation is an excellent tip I really appreciate that one and will be doing this for sure. I was very hesitant to use balsa I wanted a fully synthetic build to prevent any future rot but the strength and the thinking that when properly sealed the balsa will last won me over in the end.Hydrostream dreamin
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02-20-2021, 04:44 PM #19
Can I use core-bond to set the stringers in? Can I use core-bond to fill gaps/voids like in between the core and the edge of the pad, and in between the transom edges to hull? Basically places where I see people using peanut butter, do you recommend core-bond as a suitable substitute?
Hydrostream dreamin
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02-20-2021, 10:54 PM #20Member
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Lake, don't put a screw into the hull, put it in the cradle, let the shank stick out as a starting point, a dot will work, just easier to line a ruler up on a screw shank. When you bend the balsa over a barrel it lets you get resin fully into the core by opening up the blocks, always grind and blow off coosa, scraping a coat of resin will penatrate into the thousand of tiny holes and improve the bond. I use micro spheres[bubbles] mixed into resin as a putty for filling /faring. I've never used corebond so can't help on that, I've always laid core into a mat and resin base. John
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02-21-2021, 05:25 AM #21
I understand the barrel and core wetting procedure im good with that and its a great tip! I understand the water level I remember seeing crews installing tee bar ceiling using them I’m good with the level concept.
What I’m a bit unsure of is how to layout the cradle because the hull is bare and floppy. So while I can duplicate the shape of the hull to plywood at sections and cut them out ok. I don’t know what shape the hull is supposed to ideally be. I was thinking to use a large scribe similar to log cabin building to transfer the shape of the hull to sections of plywood for the cradle then I guess I’ll have to do my best with the water level getting both sides symmetrical. I’m thinking if I start with the pad ensuring it’s perfectly flat and level then using the water level and shim up from there to support the chines and finally do a visual inspection of the rub rail position when that’s all done and see how straight it is. I can’t think of anything else to do really. Wish me luck we start on this tomorrowHydrostream dreamin
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02-21-2021, 11:17 PM #22Member
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I don't know if hull is twisted or wavey, but twisted is easy, turn hull over, use water level at trans first, level out trans by using outside chimes, block to hold shape and move up the hull say 10', mark both sides and level up, use scrap plywood to scribe pattern for cradle, bow up or down doesn't matter as hull will be straight, you can add to front cradle to get it sitting like you want after you flip it over, this should get you started, make patterns it will save you a lot of plywood, john
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02-22-2021, 09:13 AM #23Screaming And Flying!
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Make a fairly sturdy cradle that is level and straight> basically boards running just longitudinally, place hull into cradle. Check to see where the hull is not making contact. try and make it the same from side to side with some moderate weight and wedges. Build structure, floor etc.. Flip boat, sharpen strakes and blueprint hull to same specs from side to side. These hulls were never built to exacting specs nor did they stay exactly straight or true to the centerline over their lifetime. (twist) Just re-glassing the hull will pull the shape out of true when the glass shrinks and warps. I had a friend weld an alum cradle out of scrap when I did mine. Wood will work good too. But choose good straight boards, bolt and screw it together and check with a string, laser, or the water level while building it. If you make plywood templates for side to side, pick one side and just mirror for the other side. Lot of ways to do it. Some even make a cradle on the boats trailer frame. jm2cts.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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02-22-2021, 01:39 PM #24
That’s valuable guidance thanks again. We made the first plywood piece to cradle the rear where all the angles are because that area does not shift when we lift and move the hull around. We slid the boat off the trailer onto the first cross brace and are working on number two. Looks like things are level and true. Happy thus far. Gratuitous pics
Hydrostream dreamin
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02-22-2021, 03:38 PM #25Screaming And Flying!
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Good start with a solid reference point.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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03-02-2021, 04:55 PM #26
Got the cradle pretty much wrapped up today. Attached a pic, we are thinking of using some expanding foam to fit the hull really tight to the braces, we have some semi rigid two part low expansion stuff for this. One of my helpers is a window man so he has the right product.
Starting to think about glassing and will do a layer of 1708 over the entire hull but first a few patches. For these some guidance is appreciated. Was thinking CSM in 3 or 5 layers? Grind the damage and holes down to allow for glass to be built back up yes? Also what are these holes above the drain hole on the radius part of the transom area in this pic for? Cant think of any reason for them
Hydrostream dreamin
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03-02-2021, 05:19 PM #27Screaming And Flying!
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Might use some mat and 1708 to patch. Depends on the thickness of hull area. Holes, I have no idea.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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03-05-2021, 07:59 PM #28
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03-14-2021, 03:21 PM #29
We finally wrapped up the cradle today. The hull had some twist in it from sitting without the core for a few years. We worked very hard to true it up as best we could but there are some warps on the chines for/aft that appear to be manufacture issues not warp issues from sitting. That said we have all chines within 1/4" total so 1/8" per side of true and thats only in the one spot about midway down the starboard side. We referenced 6 points per side so 12 reference points in total and most are identical or 1/16" variance side/side.
To make the cradle completely locked in this place we hoisted the boat up and used premix fiberglass to line the cradle supports and placed parchment paper over top then lowered the hull back down which really makes it very stable in the cradle now. So next weekend we are going to begin laying in some glass repairs and see how we make out.Hydrostream dreamin
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03-14-2021, 04:03 PM #30
Dang! You sure took the cradle further than I did. Sounds like its going to be solid.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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