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  1. #181
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    Dash and rear stringer in

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  3. #182
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    You're doing great work on this build. This is going to be a very nice boat when finished!

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  5. #183
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    Thanks Tony, we are giving er our all as I always do with my work. It’s not the best, but it is my best. We cleaned up the cap a little today and will be laying 1708 on the sides of the stringers that will lay out to the edges of the cap so just like the hull, we will have added one layer of 1708 over the entire cap which should balance out the strength. We were going to wrap 1708 around the stringers and up into the sides of the interior walls but the fit and finish level of the core bonded stringers is really clean and we don’t want to add all that extra work to fair it all back out so we are only doing the sides. Seeing as we ran 1808 before bonding in the stringers we have supported both sides of the stinger with structural glass which is wayyy more than the factory put in. The original stringers were all held in with a bit of chop gun and that was all. We are also going to core the deck and add the front stringer and brace. I had these little 1/4” stamped beam clamps that work perfectly for lining up the cracks in the edge so we can get it flat and avoid adding unnecessary thickness. I wouldn’t care to thicken the edge rail area but I have bought Ranger bass boat run rail and it only has a 3-/16” gap so I have to be careful keeping the lip tight. Anyways some pics of today’s work

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  7. #184
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    Fit up the forward braces and core for the deck. Strange thing with this core being that it came with the purchase of the boat and the guy was explaining he had some idea to run core only with glass stringers over some removable mould idea none of which concerned me much because I wanted a good lake boat. The guy had cut the core up into all these strips and pieces and neither of us could make a damn bit of sense what this guy was trying to do. We did lay it all in the hull before we started just to see what the plan was and to us it seemed as if there was no plan because none of it fit anywhere well. Thankfully there were still many new uncut sheets. But for the deck core we had to use the leftover bits and the funny thing is, this little pile of off cuts is all thats left of the core that came with the boat. It was literally the perfect amount of core to do what we needed. Thought it funny

    Regarding laying up the deck, Tony what did you do to retain the shape of the cap? We decided to flip it over again to test fit before laying the core and 1808 to the edge plan in case of shift and the drivers side at the back i had already patched the riggin holes from below and it has tweaked the side high so we have to squeeze it down now to get the cap to fit on the hull in that area. It made us both nervous and we are contemplating not running any new glass out to the edges just to keep the flexibility there so we can bond it without putting it out of shape facing a lot of resistance squeezing it back together. The hull being core to the bow eye will not flex even a tiny bit anymore it is completely fixxed in its position. Anyways looking forward to hearing thoughts on this

    I also attached a couple pics of the beam clamps that work so well for lining up cracks. With such a small touch area we will run the glass out and then clamp this right over the wet lay, it should work out good.

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  9. #185
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    Got some knees made up today. Inch and a quarter thick. Ran a 1/4” router around the leading edge, might increase that to 3/8”. The knees will be bonded into the deck stringers and to the splashwell which we decided to retain. After we lay 1808 on the bottom side of the splashwell it will also serve as a nice horizontal brace for the transom between the knees. Got the seat boxes position sorted out and started on the foot throttle bracket. Going to run the seatstar pedal and a hand control and will do the dual cable switcheroo when I want one or the other type thing. I’ll probably be on the pedal for most of the first year.

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  11. #186
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    Lake, I didn't really do anything to retain the shape of the deck when working on it. Looking back I probably should've supported it more.
    For the most part I didn't run any new glass out to the edge of the deck, other than the coremat. The one thing that comes to mind was having a 4x4 under the very tip of the bow to hold the deck up while it was upside down so it didn't sag when adding the core and the upper stringers. The bare deck wanted to flex a bunch at the dash.
    I did end up having to fight the deck a bit to get it back on. The worst was the wings where I added the coremat, but I was able to get everything to flex into place.

  12. #187
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    Thanks that’s helpful. We supported the deck evenly under the dash and at the front cross brave of the splashwell it seemed to sit pretty well but it did get more floppy when we stripped the stringers out. Mine had some core on the bow already which also helped. We have decided to spot repair the cracks on the edge of the cap and not run full lays out to the edge as planned. This way the whole perimeter from the first ridge out will be factory glass only which is quite flexible. Then after we bond the cap we will assess and see if we need to lay more.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  14. #188
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    Got a little more glass laid in today as well as the forward brace. Primed the deck for the core


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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  16. #189
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    Poking away slowly here and there for an hour or two. Hoping to get a push going soon to wrap it up. Deck core bonded, laid some 1708 over the side stringers. More lays coming to the deck next then we will flip it and bond the hull knees, seat boxes, battery tray, which are already to go and fab the foot throttle position then gel and bond them together. Getting close

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  18. #190
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    I am so happy with the fact I decided to put core in the bow. Never have to worry about it when climbing in after pushing off from shore etc. I'm 250lbs and can do jumping jacks on the bow and nothing moves or makes a peep.

    You're on pace to have this thing in the water first thing next season.

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  20. #191
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    My Valero had a cored deck from factory and it was nice. I’ve had boats with and without and as you say there are times you need to get up there quick to prevent a bump or dock issue etc etc etc plus I have kids and I’m thinking ahead aiming more for stoutness than lightness. That said using 100% coosa has really dropped a lot of weight off this thing. I’d like to weight it when I’m done.

    Onto the build we wrapped up the glass lays on the deck today. Ran 1708 over the core and we ran 1208 because its very thin to shore up the lip and over the entire underside of the deck. I went back and forth with how best to do this and I’m very pleased how this turned out. We also ran 1808 over the entire splashwell and rear cross stringer tied in all around the side stringers too. This is to provide linear strength between the motor mount bolts in lieu of a cross brace as we were planning when a splashwell delete was in the works. After laying 1708 and 1808 and comparing after cure IMO the 1808 is substantially stronger product. If I could do things over I would have laid 1808 for the first lays on the stringers and 1708 for the second. The 1808 leaves a rough grooved surface where the 1708 lays flat and smooth. Also the little beam clamps were used to align the cracks during cure. We worked the 1208 very carefully to the edges so we get a clean bond when we cut it back.

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  22. #192
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    Sanded the transitions, cleaned up the edges, and flipped the deck back over. Core bonded the knees in place.

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  24. #193
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    Knees tabbed in. One layer 1808 first, then a 1708 type of 45/45 stitch mat with csm. I can’t recall what it’s called but it’s similar to 1708, just stronger and not as smooth finish but they were out of stock on the regular 1708 and this is somehow better, and it sure was pricey and took a lot more resin to lay.

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  26. #194
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    Worked on the battery tray today. Resin coated the coosa with vinylester and set it in corebond thickened with cabosil which worked really well. I laid corebond down in the taper area leading up to the stringer then set a 1”x6”w x 8”L piece of steel over a Piece of parchment paper to finish the tray area off flat. I’ll take pics tomorrow of the finished result.

    I was also thinking rather than use metal or plastic tabs bolted in for the battery box strap to make fiberglass tabs to use for the strap hold downs. Hope that makes sense. Hope even more that this works out. I can’t bring myself to drill anything yet

    I ended up with three times as much thickened corebond as I needed so rather than waste it I filled in holes and the dash area with it which I will follow up by laying 1708 over the dash and csm on the other areas before fairing

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    Hydrostream dreamin

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  28. #195
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    For the battery tray, I use these in my Vulture and in my kids Vixen and they work great! I just have some threaded inserts to hold the tray to the battery tray pads. I was thinking of going the same route with the batter strap but this worked out great for me.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LU9SJS?th=1

    There are the threaded inserts that I used and epoxied them in and then put a little silicone on the screws holding the trays to keep everything as water tight as I can. Batteries dont move one single bit. They have a drive tool for installing them and trust me when I say to get it. lol

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025PLFU2?th=1

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    By the way, the build is looking great!!!!
    -Kevin
    Project Vulture | Project Vector | Project Vamp | Project CobraJet
    1977 Hydrostream Vulture - Worlds longest ongoing project.
    1982 Hydrostream Vector
    1982 Hydrostream Vamp
    1973 Hydrostream Vixen
    1976 CobraJet Jet Boat - Outboard conversion project
    199? Glastron - aka Boat Anchor
    1976 Pontoon - aka The Family Truckster

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